Quote:
Originally Posted by 5ABI VT
Appreciate all the input!!
1. From what I can see the cats have 3 bolts connecting them to the manifolds? Ill try without them removed I'm hoping they don't need to be. 3 bolts connecting them to the exhaust toward the rear?
2. Does the motor need to be raised up or does it just make things easier? Are the mounts the same or similar to an ltx? I did it just a couple weeks ago without raising the motor or disconnecting the C-Frame.
3. What size are the Oem bolts on the manifolds ? 10 mm
One of my peeves is just getting started on a job and getting stuck in the middle which is why I like to ask before I start. I'm debating on going to Carlisle Friday morning so I was looking to start the hesders tonight and finish before then. I just didn't want to be halfway through and need a special tool or something because I like to work during the wee hours of the night / morning and all stores are obviously closed. I don't really care to leave the car on stands for a few days because I'm waiting for my wheel barrels anyways as well as the chip to arrive.
I'm going to start anyways because I can't stand staring at the headers on the floor. Sometimes I need a kick in the butt to get started. I just can't wait to hear the car with these on with the Corsas !!
I believe SW advertises these as 40+ hp?
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You need two new exhaust manifold gaskets and maybe a dipstick tube seal.
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Dipstick Tube Seal
And Maybe Stage 8 Header Bolts.
LT5 Summit Racing 8905 LT5 8mm x 1.25 The underhead length is 25 mm or about .98 inches
1. Remove REAR innner wheel panels (Drivers side and Passenger side) first.
...a. Two Torx T15 to rear louvered side panel.
...b. Three Torx T27 to rear louvered side panel.
...c. Four 10mm bolts in vertical line attached to center panel.
...d. One 10 mm bolt under rear wheel panel attached to frame.
...e. Two 10 mm bolts lower rear attached to rear frame.
...f. Two 7 mm bolts along top edge drivers side of rear wheel panel attaching secondary injector module.
2. Remove 10 mm bolt that holds dipstick tube to manifold.
3. Remove Dipstick Tube. (plug dip stick tube hole temporarily)
4. Loosen exhaust connecting flanges just to the rear of the CATS (three bolts each)
Use some WD40 to start with on all bolts.
5. Leave the CATS connected to the Exhaust Manifolds.
6. Remove Two Hanger bolts (Trans and Differential). Leave hangers in place.
7. Remove rear "L" Hanger on Stock Mufflers and drop mufflers a few inches supporting mufflers on blocks.
8. Finish removing 3 bolts from connecting flanges (step #4 above) and drop exhaust system to floor (drag out to rear).
9. Remove exhaust manifold tin heat isolation covers.
10. Remove Air Induction main tubes and rest of Air Induction system including pump.
...a. Associated with the Air Injection system is one vacuum line on the drivers side fender skirt above the shock tower.
...b. I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" in front of "T" about 3 inches and plugged the "Y" back in where the "T" was.
11. Remove (I think 13 mm) nut on stud (stud may come out) in center lower of each Exhaust Manifold (90's - 92's only).
12. Remove exhaust manifold bolts (10mm) using various 3/8 inch socket extensions, universals, and flex head ratchet wrench.
Do NOT slip wrenches on the 10mm hex head of the exhaust manifold bolts when you try to first loosen them jimming the hex in any way!!!
13. Drop Stock Exhaust Manifolds with CATS to floor and slide out to side.
...a. Leave the CATS connected to the manifolds.
14. Remove old Exhaust Manifold Gaskets and clean exhaust surfaces on block.
I use the wobble extensions on almost everything. The wobble extensions are in first picture and flex ratchet combination wrenches in second picture.
You will notice what allows the wobble. A 3/8 inch universal in the second picture.
There are all sorts of socket combinations you can get but these four tools/tool sets will get er done assuming you have a good 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch socket wrench and set of metric sockets. The BIG problem in removing the exhaust manifold is getting wrenches in such a small space.
I actually use 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch socket extensions, 1/4 inch socket wrench, and 1/4 inch universal as the 1/4 inch are much easier to work in tight areas.
When you get to installing Headers....I sometimes use two universals and two extensions with one 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with Stage 8 Header bolts (it actually works).
Post 87 - Installing Headers and Exhaust
Post 45 - Exhaust System Replace with Headers
Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool.
A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (
Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.
Particularily useful for
Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers.