Secondary Indicator Light?

[KPW]

On the '90 models there is a "Full Engine Power" light in the DIC. I thought I had read somewhere that the later models still have that lens, but there isn't a bulb in there. True?

It's not too hard to track down a bulb and socket to install there, so what about having it light up when the secondaries open? I thought it could be useful for understanding when they're running while cruising (think Marc H's cleaning procedure), though I could see where having a SES-colored light popping up regularly might be unnerving.

All that said, I'm not sure where I'd hook the indicator up to.

Any thoughts on where might be a good connection? Secondary fuel pump? Or maybe is there a way to tap into the power key for a secondaries on/off signal? Is there a fuse connection that could work? I know a scanner could read this info, but I think it's probably best to stay away from DIY wiring in close proximity to the ECM.

Key things here would be to not screw up anything electrically with the car (!), and to minimize how far any additional wiring would need to run.

[BlackZR1]

Originally Posted by KPW

On the '90 models there is a "Full Engine Power" light in the DIC. I thought I had read somewhere that the later models still have that lens, but there isn't a bulb in there. True?

It's not too hard to track down a bulb and socket to install there, so what about having it light up when the secondaries open? I thought it could be useful for understanding when they're running while cruising (think Marc H's cleaning procedure), though I could see where having a SES-colored light popping up regularly might be unnerving.

All that said, I'm not sure where I'd hook the indicator up to.

Any thoughts on where might be a good connection? Secondary fuel pump? Or maybe is there a way to tap into the power key for a secondaries on/off signal? Is there a fuse connection that could work? I know a scanner could read this info, but I think it's probably best to stay away from DIY wiring in close proximity to the ECM.

Key things here would be to not screw up anything electrically with the car (!), and to minimize how far any additional wiring would need to run.

Hi KPW,

I had been thinking about the exact same thing and I was hoping someone would chime in who has done this. I've owned my car for 2 months now. It's pretty fast but I would like confirmation that the secondaries are opening.
I am thinking that if I tap the 12v signal off of the vacuum solenoid under the plenum, that is verifying as much of the system as possible. ie: All conditions are met (codes, TPS, temps) and that the ECM is actually commanding the secondaries to open.

Roger

[Bob Eyres]

To have a little green light blinking every time you go over 3K might be a little annoying.

[Dynomite]

The test described in Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS
will tell you if in fact the Secondary Solenoid, Vacuum System, and Vacuum Canisters are functional.

[BlackZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

The test described in Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS
will tell you if in fact the Secondary Solenoid, Vacuum System, and Vacuum Canisters are functional.

Cliff,

I actually set out to do this test you reference last weekend but when I was ready to push the paper clip "along side the pink wire" I didn't see any exposed conductor or pin inside the connector. I did attempt to push the paper clip gently into the connector but there was no obvious opening around the insulated wire and connector. It appears the wire fits tightly into the connector with no space to push the paper clip and I was afraid of forcing it into the wire/connector.
Maybe if the paper clip had a sharper point I could work it into the connector?

Thanks,
Roger

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by BlackZR1

Cliff,

I actually set out to do this test you reference last weekend but when I was ready to push the paper clip "along side the pink wire" I didn't see any exposed conductor or pin inside the connector. I did attempt to push the paper clip gently into the connector but there was no obvious opening around the insulated wire and connector. It appears the wire fits tightly into the connector with no space to push the paper clip and I was afraid of forcing it into the wire/connector.
Maybe if the paper clip had a sharper point I could work it into the connector?

Thanks,
Roger

Use a Needle rather than a paper clip in your case....or sharpen the paper clip on a grinder.
I modified that link as I learn something new every day
Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS
Verifying Secondary Operation with Plenum In Place.

[BlackZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Use a Needle rather than a paper clip in your case....or sharpen the paper clip on a grinder.
I modified that link as I learn something new every day
Secondary Functional Test and Reconditioning the Secondary Actuators TIPS
Verifying Secondary Operation with Plenum In Place.

Cliff,

The pin worked. For those watching it helps to use a multimeter to verify 12v on the pink wire with key on (before grounding it for the test) to insure contact to the conductor is made. I had to wiggle the pin a bit until I made good contact.

Results: Good news, both secondary vacuum solenoids cycled within about 1 second and the vac. pump cycled a bit longer.

After a drive my air intake duct tends to pull off the air cleaner housing so that gives me another indicator that I am pulling some serious air. I have a new silicone duct from Jerry on the shelf ready to go on

Roger

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by BlackZR1

Cliff,

The pin worked. For those watching it helps to use a multimeter to verify 12v on the pink wire with key on (before grounding it for the test) to insure contact to the conductor is made. I had to wiggle the pin a bit until I made good contact.

Results: Good news, both secondary vacuum solenoids cycled within about 1 second and the vac. pump cycled a bit longer.

After a drive my air intake duct tends to pull off the air cleaner housing so that gives me another indicator that I am pulling some serious air. I have a new silicone duct from Jerry on the shelf ready to go on

Roger

Now to determine if in fact the other conditions are being met such that the pink wire does in fact get 12v.

See What Conditions Allow/Cause Secondaries to Open TIPS

For those that have eliminated the Secondaries the green light just stays on (1991) by the Full Power switch (no FULL POWER indicated on the Panel for the 1991).

On the 1990 the FULL POWER Indicator Light on the Panel is one of the key Feedback features having an operational Secondary System.
On the 1990 that is what I call COOL