Monday bloody Monday - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

todesengel · 04-29-2010

Sunday I am headed to the shop to wrap up some stuff on one of my supras, and get it out of there to make room for the Vette. I am planning on pulling the plenum, and installing the headers on the Z Monday. Along with the plenum pull I am going to remove my secondary flaps, and associated equipment.

I am going to do step by step pictures along the way.

A) Is there anything people on here would like to see specifically

B) Is there any pointers that any of you pro's would like to give to save me some skin and/or time?

secondchance · 04-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by todesengel

Sunday I am headed to the shop to wrap up some stuff on one of my supras, and get it out of there to make room for the Vette. I am planning on pulling the plenum, and installing the headers on the Z Monday. Along with the plenum pull I am going to remove my secondary flaps, and associated equipment.

I am going to do step by step pictures along the way.

A) Is there anything people on here would like to see specifically

B) Is there any pointers that any of you pro's would like to give to save me some skin and/or time?

I would love to see step by step pictures of header install and removing and reworking 2ndary system.
I may do both in near future.

scottfab · 04-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by todesengel

B) Is there any pointers that any of you pro's would like to give to save me some skin and/or time?

The heat shields can be VERY sharp, careful.
I mean razor blade sharp.

Gunny · 04-29-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottfab

The heat shields can be VERY sharp, careful.
I mean razor blade sharp.

Gloves are VERY handy for the heat shields

Hammer · 04-30-2010

I didn't take the heat shields off either car when installing the headers. The mainfolds came off fine.

rudolph schenker · 04-30-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

I would love to see step by step pictures of header install and removing and reworking 2ndary system.
I may do both in near future.

me too!!

Paul Workman · 04-30-2010

...gathered here: (I mean what makes this board so great, right?)

Ya don't necessarily have to completely remove the shields to get to the manifold bolts; the passenger side is especially fussy, I found. Just loosen them enough to work around the manifold bolts is all ya need.
To provide a good measure of insurance against dropping a screw down in a cylinder, someone suggested using one of those wands with a magnetic "button" on the end and place the magnet along side if the butterfly screws as you remove them. That's what I did, and it worked like a charm. (There are other ways too, no doubt.)
Pete suggestion for removing the rods is to first remove the air breather box. Then place a short socket over the the end of the threaded shaft and use a fender washer over the top of the socket for the nut to push against, and screw the nut down against the washer (with a little grease). The rod and the bearing pulls right out. (Note: Not wanting to booger up one of my good sockets, I bought an ACE Hardware 12-point socket and cut it to the perfect length. Then I ground the points down just a bit so the bearing would not hang up on them as the bearing and rod were drawn out.)
A Dorman 555-108 plug (Napa) fills the hole. A smallish socket - small enough to allow the plug edges to swag into the bearing hole - will do the job nicely.
You'll need to remove the vacuum tube "T" on the drivers side near the middle-front of the wheel well rubber gasket and replace it with a straight section. And, you'll need a plug to cap off the vacuum nipple on the left (center) side of the plenum.
Unhook the electrical connector from the vacuum switch and remove the switch (mounted to the air box lid, as I recall)
If you buy your chip from Marc Haibeck ( I did...Wow what a nice chip!), he can explain the special nuances with regard to the pressure sensor config. On a 90 it is under the ECM. Just pull the hose off and leave it open to the atmosphere. (different on other year models).

All these pointers were passed to me here on this board before I pulled my secondaries. So, I'm retuning the favor! Hope it helps!

P.

Kb7tif · 05-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by todesengel

Sunday I am headed to the shop to wrap up some stuff on one of my supras, and get it out of there to make room for the Vette. I am planning on pulling the plenum, and installing the headers on the Z Monday. Along with the plenum pull I am going to remove my secondary flaps, and associated equipment.

I am going to do step by step pictures along the way.

A) Is there anything people on here would like to see specifically

B) Is there any pointers that any of you pro's would like to give to save me some skin and/or time?

Headers are pretty simple, Have a 8mm flexhead stubby on hand. Heat shields stay on the passenger side, and just loosen on drivers side. this will become evident once you start on them. Enjoy

Well worth the effort.

04-29-2010	#1
todesengel Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: O'Fallon, Mo Posts: 738	Monday bloody Monday Sunday I am headed to the shop to wrap up some stuff on one of my supras, and get it out of there to make room for the Vette. I am planning on pulling the plenum, and installing the headers on the Z Monday. Along with the plenum pull I am going to remove my secondary flaps, and associated equipment. I am going to do step by step pictures along the way. A) Is there anything people on here would like to see specifically B) Is there any pointers that any of you pro's would like to give to save me some skin and/or time?

04-30-2010	#5
Hammer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Ideho Posts: 2,653	Re: Monday bloody Monday I didn't take the heat shields off either car when installing the headers. The mainfolds came off fine. __________________ [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS]John Boyd[/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]Ideho[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1][I]2015 ZL1 [/I][I]Camaro #1121 BLACK/BLACK 6 SPD (540 RWHP)[/I][/SIZE][/FONT] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]1991 ZR-1 #458 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK 72[/COLOR]k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B]) 1991 ZR-1 #473 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK [/COLOR]37k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B])[/SIZE][/FONT][/I]

04-30-2010	#7
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Passing on a couple pointers... ...gathered here: (I mean what makes this board so great, right?) Ya don't necessarily have to completely remove the shields to get to the manifold bolts; the passenger side is especially fussy, I found. Just loosen them enough to work around the manifold bolts is all ya need. To provide a good measure of insurance against dropping a screw down in a cylinder, someone suggested using one of those wands with a magnetic "button" on the end and place the magnet along side if the butterfly screws as you remove them. That's what I did, and it worked like a charm. (There are other ways too, no doubt.) Pete suggestion for removing the rods is to first remove the air breather box. Then place a short socket over the the end of the threaded shaft and use a fender washer over the top of the socket for the nut to push against, and screw the nut down against the washer (with a little grease). The rod and the bearing pulls right out. (Note: Not wanting to booger up one of my good sockets, I bought an ACE Hardware 12-point socket and cut it to the perfect length. Then I ground the points down just a bit so the bearing would not hang up on them as the bearing and rod were drawn out.) A Dorman 555-108 plug (Napa) fills the hole. A smallish socket - small enough to allow the plug edges to swag into the bearing hole - will do the job nicely. You'll need to remove the vacuum tube "T" on the drivers side near the middle-front of the wheel well rubber gasket and replace it with a straight section. And, you'll need a plug to cap off the vacuum nipple on the left (center) side of the plenum. Unhook the electrical connector from the vacuum switch and remove the switch (mounted to the air box lid, as I recall) If you buy your chip from Marc Haibeck ( I did...Wow what a nice chip!), he can explain the special nuances with regard to the pressure sensor config. On a 90 it is under the ECM. Just pull the hose off and leave it open to the atmosphere. (different on other year models). All these pointers were passed to me here on this board before I pulled my secondaries. So, I'm retuning the favor! Hope it helps! P. __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 04-30-2010 at 05:53 AM.