spark knock problem

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Tom,

What do you torque the plugs to?

Dom, I use the T/Q spec in the FSM. If memory serves me, and usually that's not the case as I look it up before I do the change. I think it's around 19 Nms or maybe 22 Nms.

This is my first aluminum motored car so I will admit to a larger percentage of error on my part. Putting plugs in an iron head vs an aluminum head the 'feel' of the threads to me is different when bringing the T/Q to spec. I know that is preposterous, but to me the 'feel' is different in your hand from the wrench.


Anyway, all's well now and I'm back in 'love' with my girl! She ran very well on Sunday.


Tom

[tomtom72]

I'll tell you this much Cliff, the car ran so bad past say 4k that I was thinking that I had really big problems. It was just terrible to hear! Strange as this seems the plugs that I took out showed no signs of anything wrong. The electrodes and center insulator were intact, no pits or anything amiss. They were a uniform medium brown color shaded on one side. I will post pictures if it would be of use?

To look at the old plugs you would say maybe the fuel was a wee bit fat, maybe as my plugs usually on an annual change schedule look about what new plugs look like.

I also say this much too. I'm fairly sure I will never get the hang of using antiseize. I used to check the plugs at random intervals and I would find them a bit loose. It was annoying. That's why I switched to what was on the OEM plugs, just a light coat of oil. I got better results with the oil for getting them not to be loose. I suspect that I will buy one of those new T/Q digital wrenches for future use. I have this fear of pulling the threads as the feel to me is so different than tightening the plugs in an iron head. I know, I'm just nucking futs!


Tom