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Old 04-12-2015   #61
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: Battery Disconnect

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
Oh......just have to say this.....for those guys that use Battery Tenders

I connected Negative Battery Cables on two ZR1s after sitting ALL winter (battery negative cable disconnected) since Dec and several other vehicles. Guess what.....they ALL fired right up like battery was in new condition. SO THERE.

The batteries were all charged up in December and seemed fully charged when the ZR1s fired up tonight.....and they fired up within 3 seconds with full oil pressure a couple seconds later.


I am installing the Battery Disconnect on the ZR1s tomorrow after proving the concept this winter (and every winter)

That's up to you. But, the switch will not prevent discharging, nor stop sulfate formation either. A switch will only shut off the normal "keep alive" current, but do nothing to maintain the battery at its optimum. I recon each has to chose the practical advantages vs. disadvantages and go from there. (BTW, in addition to loosing the radio pre-sets, the ECM closed loop memory is erased too. Not a biggie, I suppose, as it is self-recoverable within a short drive time.)
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Last edited by Paul Workman; 04-12-2015 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 12-15-2015   #62
Dynomite
 
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Default Battery Disconnect Switch

Just have to confirm after using the Battery Disconnect Switches on several vehicles for a relatively long period of time and after probably 100 disconnects on several ZR-1s.

I now have the Battery Disconnect Switch on four ZR-1s and often disconnect the battery when the ZR-1 will not be driven the next day. The ZR-1s all fire right up no matter if the battery is disconnected for two months or five months. There is NO Sulfation on any battery terminals as I always make sure the Batteries are disconnected in a fully charged condition.

The Battery Disconnect Switch comes as close as one can get to "Maintaining The Battery at its Optimum Charge". I do loose Radio Presets but only use the CD anyway.

There is an additional ADVANTAGE not mentioned (I think)......Disconnecting the Battery Erases Codes that do not seem to reappear nearly as often if at all.

When Battery Reconnected and the Engine Started, the Idle functioned exactly as before Settling into the 850 range within about 5 seconds of starting after an initial Higher Idle Speed. So the ECM definitely remembered that. The CHIP Information is NEVER Erased.

Try the Battery Disconnect....you might like it
The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS
I have tried Battery Tenders and do not like them as I do NOT like having to plug them into an outlet or having to park the ZR1 near an outlet. Or worse having to route an extension cord around other equipment and having to keep Main Power on in the Shed/Garage just to support a Battery Tender. I also do not like Unattended Electrical Power plugged into the ZR1 just in case of a Short in any particular Component or electrical corrosion of that component because it is in a LONG TERM HOT Unattended condition.

ALSO....what better Anti Theft than to have your hood locked and Battery Disconnected.

With the Battery Disconnect you can Disconnect your Battery as often as you like without wearing out the Original Battery Negative Terminal on either the Battery or on the Negative Cable Connector
. I now have the Battery Disconnect Switch on four ZR-1s and often disconnect the battery when the ZR-1 will not be driven the next day. The ZR-1s all fire right up no matter if the battery is disconnected for two months or five months. There is NO Sulfation on any battery terminals as I always make sure the Batteries are disconnected in a fully charged condition.

And the Battery Disconnect Switch is INEXPENSIVE with FREE shipping to your door
Side Mount Battery Disconnect Switch

Over 1,700 that use the Battery Disconnect cannot be wrong

Last edited by Dynomite; 04-11-2021 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 12-17-2015   #63
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Default Re: Keep it Simple with a Battery Disconnect

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Originally Posted by RussMcB View Post
Sounds like a pain resetting six radio stations every time (so I'm guessing you don't bother).

I went with the BT cigarette lighter method (suggested earlier in this thread, I think). It is semi-convenient (no need to open the hood), but there is still a wire to step over. It's a pretty good comprimise while I'm waiting for the wireless version. :-)
I hooked up my BT, ran the quick disconnect cable out the side gill and shut the hood. When I want to go for a drive I just unplug it and stuff the cable (only 3-4 inches) inside the gill, fire it up and leave. When I get back I can usually just reach right inside the gill and pull the cable back out. I rarely have to open my hood to mess with my BT.
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