Oil Pressure Switch - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

mgbrv8 · 08-15-2014

Thank you so much John. I'm so glad it was helpful.

Dave

LT5Vette · 04-18-2015

My pressure switch is leaking so search lead me here. Is there any sealant or Teflon tape used on this switch? Looks like switch may have something applied to threads on replacement part. Also wondering since my hands are larger than space allowed in most engine bays and this looks particularly tight, what size plugs are required for the oil lines?
Thanks much very helpful information, got my moving blanket ready, just waiting on the part. Thanks,
Tod

AustinJohn · 04-18-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by LT5Vette

My pressure switch is leaking so search lead me here. Is there any sealant or Teflon tape used on this switch? Looks like switch may have something applied to threads on replacement part. Also wondering since my hands are larger than space allowed in most engine bays and this looks particularly tight, what size plugs are required for the oil lines?
Thanks much very helpful information, got my moving blanket ready, just waiting on the part. Thanks,
Tod

Tod, I'd refer you to my post #10 above for additional suggestions BUT will add that the limited space makes this is a hard job even with small hands so you may want to try to enlist a friend with small hands to help. The flex socket in Dave's pictures is indispensable and keeps one from having to disconnect the oil lines. I did not use Teflon tape but if you do use the "yellow" gas/oil resistant tape. John

Oldyeller91 · 07-08-2015

So prob dumb question, new to pressure switches, but is in a special socket or just a large deep 6 point? And is it wrong to wish I had smaller hands for this procedure? LOL If I were to pull the oil filter riser off, are there multiple gaskets that would need replaced(hope I wont have to).

Thanks John

mgbrv8 · 07-08-2015

Not a dumb question at all. They make a special socket for it but a medium length 6 point works just fine.

Dave Hetrick

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldyeller91

So prob dumb question, new to pressure switches, but is in a special socket or just a large deep 6 point? And is it wrong to wish I had smaller hands for this procedure? LOL If I were to pull the oil filter riser off, are there multiple gaskets that would need replaced(hope I wont have to).

Thanks John

HAWAIIZR-1 · 07-08-2015

Hey Dave,

Would you happen to know the part number to the one on the top by the oil filter? When driving this weekend I noticed at idle my need on the gauge is bouncing a little bit. It is fine when accelerating or driving otherwise and my guess is the sender is bad. The diagram indicates the one for the gauge is the one that is upright by the filter.

Thanks,

Craig

Dynomite · 07-09-2015

Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge

See Oil Filter Adapter Functions

HAWAIIZR-1 · 07-09-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge

Thanks Cliff!

HAWAIIZR-1 · 07-17-2015

The oil pressure sensor dash gauge was by far the quickest (5 minutes?) and easiest thing to replace in my 12 years of owning ZR-1s. It took less than5 minutes to replace, but the plastic was so brittle on the old one it broke apart and separated from the metal base.

Rd.adam@hotmail.com · 09-30-2015

Will a bad oil pressure switch cause a NO START problem ?

Hi, I have 2 ZR-1's, both 1990. I was in hospital for several months, etc, and anyways both cars sat for 3-4 years.
Got the black car started briefly, it ran barely for a few minutes, seemed to come around better, then quit. Fuel tank was dry. Assumed faulty fuel pump so changed them out. Car has never fired since.
Pulled 8 plugs out, they all have spark, even though it seems a bit on weaker side. Put fuel pressure gauge on rail,it seems fine, about 50-55 lbs while cranking engine. Still won't start, will not even fire.
Also, have bypassed vats system using a GM dealer vats interrogator black box. Still won't fire.
Any suggestions ?

Also on my red car, it always cranks over, bypassed vats system, it will sometimes fire up. Took it for drive of 10 miles, it had maybe 100 hp or less. My mechanic then cut out catalytic converters, now it starts only when battery connects directly to the purple wire. The car now will not seem to rev up, and backfires a bit. Shut it off, then it will refuse to start until several attempts made.
Both cars were sitting 3-4 years. I even tried swapping ecm's, did not make any difference.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks
Rd.adam@hotmail.com
Dean Adam

08-15-2014	#11
mgbrv8 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 793	Re: Oil Pressure Switch Thank you so much John. I'm so glad it was helpful. Dave

04-18-2015	#12
LT5Vette Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Iowa Posts: 26	Re: Oil Pressure Switch My pressure switch is leaking so search lead me here. Is there any sealant or Teflon tape used on this switch? Looks like switch may have something applied to threads on replacement part. Also wondering since my hands are larger than space allowed in most engine bays and this looks particularly tight, what size plugs are required for the oil lines? Thanks much very helpful information, got my moving blanket ready, just waiting on the part. Thanks, Tod __________________ Tod B. 91 Turquoise/Saddle #66 Haibeck 350 engine package, corsa, 4.10, wilwood brakes '16 Night race Blue, M7, Z51, PDR Last edited by LT5Vette; 04-18-2015 at 12:20 PM. Reason: spelling

07-08-2015	#14
Oldyeller91 Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Kent, Ohio Posts: 1	Re: Oil Pressure Switch So prob dumb question, new to pressure switches, but is in a special socket or just a large deep 6 point? And is it wrong to wish I had smaller hands for this procedure? LOL If I were to pull the oil filter riser off, are there multiple gaskets that would need replaced(hope I wont have to). Thanks John

07-08-2015	#16
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,543	Re: Oil Pressure Switch Hey Dave, Would you happen to know the part number to the one on the top by the oil filter? When driving this weekend I noticed at idle my need on the gauge is bouncing a little bit. It is fine when accelerating or driving otherwise and my guess is the sender is bad. The diagram indicates the one for the gauge is the one that is upright by the filter. Thanks, Craig __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

07-09-2015	#17
Dynomite Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Dakota/California Posts: 3,788	Re: Oil Pressure Switch Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge See Oil Filter Adapter Functions __________________ Left Clickable links -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 07-09-2015 at 12:17 AM.

07-17-2015	#19
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,543	Re: Oil Pressure Switch The oil pressure sensor dash gauge was by far the quickest (5 minutes?) and easiest thing to replace in my 12 years of owning ZR-1s. It took less than5 minutes to replace, but the plastic was so brittle on the old one it broke apart and separated from the metal base. __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

09-30-2015	#20
Rd.adam@hotmail.com Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 9	Re: Oil Pressure Switch Will a bad oil pressure switch cause a NO START problem ? Hi, I have 2 ZR-1's, both 1990. I was in hospital for several months, etc, and anyways both cars sat for 3-4 years. Got the black car started briefly, it ran barely for a few minutes, seemed to come around better, then quit. Fuel tank was dry. Assumed faulty fuel pump so changed them out. Car has never fired since. Pulled 8 plugs out, they all have spark, even though it seems a bit on weaker side. Put fuel pressure gauge on rail,it seems fine, about 50-55 lbs while cranking engine. Still won't start, will not even fire. Also, have bypassed vats system using a GM dealer vats interrogator black box. Still won't fire. Any suggestions ? Also on my red car, it always cranks over, bypassed vats system, it will sometimes fire up. Took it for drive of 10 miles, it had maybe 100 hp or less. My mechanic then cut out catalytic converters, now it starts only when battery connects directly to the purple wire. The car now will not seem to rev up, and backfires a bit. Shut it off, then it will refuse to start until several attempts made. Both cars were sitting 3-4 years. I even tried swapping ecm's, did not make any difference. Any suggestions ? Thanks Rd.adam@hotmail.com Dean Adam