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Old 03-14-2015   #1
Rex Ruby
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Springfield, PA
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Default Wheel bearings

I need to replace the rear wheel bearings. I know MOOG, Timken and SKF are good names. The below is what Rock Auto lists. Which bearing would you install?


RAYBESTOS Part # 713020 Professional Grade
Rear
...$91.79

TIMKEN Part # 513020 Ball Bearing
Rear
$99.79

MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513013 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers513020, 7466907, 7466920, 7466942, 7466952, 7470005, 7470536}
Rear
$100.79

MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 513020
Rear Hub Assembly
$105.79

SKF Part # BR930024 {#7466924, 7466945} Wheel Hub Assembly
Rear
$142.79


ACDELCO Part # 2045 {#07470501, 7470501} GM Original Equipment
Rear (Only 1 Remaining)
$282.79
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Last edited by Rex Ruby; 03-14-2015 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 03-14-2015   #2
A26B
 
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

Timkin
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Old 03-14-2015   #3
Rex Ruby
 
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by A26B View Post
Timkin
Thanks Jerry!
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Old 03-14-2015   #4
mike100
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

The SKF (if made in South Korea) are highly regarded for the C4 application. I bought some for the fronts (F-Body ones because they were cheaper).
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Old 03-14-2015   #5
Jagdpanzer
 
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

Both Timken and SKF are fine.
I'm running SKF bearing hubs on the rear broached out to 31 splines for Mark Williams spindles.
Here is the broached out SKF next to a stock ACDelco hub:

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Old 03-14-2015   #6
XfireZ51
 
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

I try to use Moog suspension bits and SKF bearings for the most part.
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Old 03-16-2015   #7
batchman
 
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Default Re: Wheel bearings

For street use I think any major brand will be fine, although it appears Moog has a longer warranty (3 years).

For my application (autocross racing on big slicks), I've burned up all I've tried but am looking forward to trying Moog this year. The Moog part appears to have a different seal design and that looks to be my root cause of failure.

It does seem most of the hubs are coming from one factory in China - I've had a litany of switched bits like a National flange on an SKF or other ident not matching its' box brand.

At least they're easy to change, well at least until you machine things or use long studs.

Cheers,
- Jeff
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