368 LT5 Drinking oil

[Mitsumark]

Thanks for clarifying..I will check that out tomorrow..I promise not to ask anything else as this thread is already 5 pages long..But if that filter is compromised in any way, can it contribute to my smoking/ oil burning issue?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Mitsumark

Thanks for clarifying..I will check that out tomorrow..I promise not to ask anything else as this thread is already 5 pages long..But if that filter is compromised in any way, can it contribute to my smoking/ oil burning issue?

I would say yes.......but the bulk of the oil would come from the PCV system (the two PCV valves) and some of us mount Oil Catch Cans to catch some of that oil (The Red Canister on the drivers side inside fender well). I think the Cam Cover Vents are primarily to keep condensation from forming in the Cam Covers.

Do NOT stop with the questions in this thread....your questions are informative for EVERYONE

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Mitsumark

Kevin-I see your from PA..I bet you call those big sandwiches with the meat on them hoagies right? Lol.. Where Im from they're called subs..I was thrown off by Dynos "cam cover" reference as here in NJ,it's always referred to as valve cover regardless of it being pushrods,OHC,or whatever..Different states have different terms I guess..

when I make them myself it's usually "hey where'd the tip of my finger go?'

[bradley]

most 368 builds end up with 12 to 1 compression pistons on them which may acct for the higher readings . if he had bigger cams in it would most likely bleed of someof the cranking compression

[Mitsumark]

Ok so I had a a few hrs to tinker with the car today..I would of went further but it's freezing here in NJ..Ok so I started with warming up the car fully and going for a nice 40 mile trip with a few romps occasionally..I noticed right away that the car was way down on power since the last time I drove it.As I posted compression tests a few days ago, a few of you have told me the readings were good.So onto the next.Once home I hooked up a vac gauge to a port on the plenum with the car running..The car is pulling a steady 18" with no fluctuations..It this normal vac for a 368 LT5?It seemed low to me but I was happy to see it wasn't jumping around..Im having fun with my new vac gauge/pump and also decide to pull the secondary hose on the passenger side of the plenum..I tried to apply 12-15' vac to it and it bled down instantly.Bad secondary parts?So I shut the car and proceed to start pulling the plenum..Once removed,I'm surprised as there is plenty of oil inside..I also noticed the bases of the injector housings looked damp with oil so I pulled them too..They to had a good supply of oil in them..No wonder this thing is smoking..Can anyone tell me what would cause this much oil to be in the intake & IHs?This can't be normal..I'm going to clean these things out and reinstall everything..But first I'm gonna have to order some gaskets from Jerry..Also,,Where can I find all new parts to rebuild my secondary system(actuators,selonoid,resovoir)?This car hates me..

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Mitsumark

Ok so I had a a few hrs to tinker with the car today..I would of went further but it's freezing here in NJ..Ok so I started with warming up the car fully and going for a nice 40 mile trip with a few romps occasionally..I noticed right away that the car was way down on power since the last time I drove it.As I posted compression tests a few days ago, a few of you have told me the readings were good.So onto the next.Once home I hooked up a vac gauge to a port on the plenum with the car running..The car is pulling a steady 18" with no fluctuations..It this normal vac for a 368 LT5?It seemed low to me but I was happy to see it wasn't jumping around..Im having fun with my new vac gauge/pump and also decide to pull the secondary hose on the passenger side of the plenum..I tried to apply 12-15' vac to it and it bled down instantly.Bad secondary parts?So I shut the car and proceed to start pulling the plenum..Once removed,I'm surprised as there is plenty of oil inside..I also noticed the bases of the injector housings looked damp with oil so I pulled them too..They to had a good supply of oil in them..No wonder this thing is smoking..Can anyone tell me what would cause this much oil to be in the intake & IHs?This can't be normal..I'm going to clean these things out and reinstall everything..But first I'm gonna have to order some gaskets from Jerry..Also,,Where can I find all new parts to rebuild my secondary system(actuators,selonoid,resovoir)?This car hates me..

Good job testing...

I've got 2 actuators that I pulled when I deleted the sec vac system; both held vacuum, as did the reservoir and lines from the pump to the reservoir, and you're welcome to them for postage + a couple $ for lunch.

(from a '90; 32k)

[A26B]

Oil in the valley and around the injector housings is not uncommon for the LT5.
Cause & Cure
1. PCV Crankcase Ventilation Baffle Cover ("the box") bolts loosen over time. During WOT, crankcase pressure exceeds what the PCV system can normally handle and crankcase oily vapor seeps out past the gasket. Over time, creates an oily mess under the plenum in the valley.

Shortcut Fix: Remove ea of the 13, 8mm hex head bolts & clean the oil from the bolts with brake or carb cleaner spray. Apply Loctite 243 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=591 to the bolt threads and reinstall. Loctite 243 performs better than 242 when the surfaces are contaminated with oil & there will still be oil in the bolt threads in the block.

Tighten the bolts in an alternating, crossing pattern from the center of the box sides outward.

Long Fix: Same job, just add removing the box, cleaning out the threads in the block & replacing the gasket. What makes it long is the secondary port throttle covers & linkage has to be removed to get it out. Not a bad job, just more work.

2. Injector Housings: Injector housing bolts also are prone to loosen over time. In this case, not only does crankcase pressure leak from the PCV ports in the injector housings, but can also allow coolant to leak.

Fix: Like the crankcase vent baffle cover (the box), clean the bolts & threads of oil & use Loctite 243 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=591 during reinstallation of the injector housings. Clean all gasket mating surfaces thoroughly to remove all foreign material and wipe down surfaces with brake cleaner or carb spray to remove any oily residue. Some builders prefer to use a light smear of non-hardening Permatex on both sides of the injector housing, around the coolant ports. In the case of your modifications which likely include porting this is a good recommendation as there is not much surface to isolate the coolant port from the intake runners when they have been ported.

Regarding replacement of actuators & such. I don't advocate replacing arbitrarily. You have a new toy, the vacuum tester. Use it on those components. Replacing a tested good part with a new part isn't going to accomplish anything except to cost $'s.

You still have a leaking injector issue to resolve. If you don't have one, get a fuel pressure test gauge. perform a Key on-Engine off test to build max fuel pressure, then turn the key off & observe the fuel pressure bleed-down (seconds & pressure). based on your earlier comments, I would expect the test to confirm the leaking injector. Then, pull the plugs, one at a time, note the condition & smell the plug well for fuel odor. That should identify the leaking injector location.

Since you have the injector rails removed, you could also reconnect the rail assy to the fuel feed & return block & turn the key on for a sec to spot the leaker. Just be cautious of fuel & ignition sources before attempting this type of test.

[Dynomite]

Perfect Jerry.......In -Solutions- Under Engine Issues

I must say also....Jerry has all the gaskets and bolts you will need including various components....and his delivery is usually two days at most to my mail box
Jerry's Gaskets

Originally Posted by A26B

Oil in the valley and around the injector housings is not uncommon for the LT5.
Cause & Cure
1. PCV Crankcase Ventilation Baffle Cover ("the box") bolts loosen over time. During WOT, crankcase pressure exceeds what the PCV system can normally handle and crankcase oily vapor seeps out past the gasket. Over time, creates an oily mess under the plenum in the valley.

Shortcut Fix: Remove ea of the 13, 8mm hex head bolts & clean the oil from the bolts with brake or carb cleaner spray. Apply Loctite 243 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=591 to the bolt threads and reinstall. Loctite 243 performs better than 242 when the surfaces are contaminated with oil & there will still be oil in the bolt threads in the block.

Tighten the bolts in an alternating, crossing pattern from the center of the box sides outward.

Long Fix: Same job, just add removing the box, cleaning out the threads in the block & replacing the gasket. What makes it long is the secondary port throttle covers & linkage has to be removed to get it out. Not a bad job, just more work.

2. Injector Housings: Injector housing bolts also are prone to loosen over time. In this case, not only does crankcase pressure leak from the PCV ports in the injector housings, but can also allow coolant to leak.

Fix: Like the crankcase vent baffle cover (the box), clean the bolts & threads of oil & use Loctite 243 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=591 during reinstallation of the injector housings. Clean all gasket mating surfaces thoroughly to remove all foreign material and wipe down surfaces with brake cleaner or carb spray to remove any oily residue. Some builders prefer to use a light smear of non-hardening Permatex on both sides of the injector housing, around the coolant ports. In the case of your modifications which likely include porting this is a good recommendation as there is not much surface to isolate the coolant port from the intake runners when they have been ported.

Regarding replacement of actuators & such. I don't advocate replacing arbitrarily. You have a new toy, the vacuum tester. Use it on those components. Replacing a tested good part with a new part isn't going to accomplish anything except to cost $'s.

You still have a leaking injector issue to resolve. If you don't have one, get a fuel pressure test gauge. perform a Key on-Engine off test to build max fuel pressure, then turn the key off & observe the fuel pressure bleed-down (seconds & pressure). based on your earlier comments, I would expect the test to confirm the leaking injector. Then, pull the plugs, one at a time, note the condition & smell the plug well for fuel odor. That should identify the leaking injector location.

Since you have the injector rails removed, you could also reconnect the rail assy to the fuel feed & return block & turn the key on for a sec to spot the leaker. Just be cautious of fuel & ignition sources before attempting this type of test.

[Mitsumark]

So I guess it's safe to assume with the compression & vaccume test results I can say the engine is healthy and the smoke is coming from a less vital source..

Regarding replacement of actuators & such. I don't advocate replacing arbitrarily. You have a new toy, the vacuum tester. Use it on those components. Replacing a tested good part with a new part isn't going to accomplish anything except to cost $'s.

I just figured since the components look original and there is a faulty part in the system that I would have piece of mind knowing it is all new..Years ago I enjoyed working on my car.. However with a very hectic work schedule I'd much rather enjoy driving the car than working on it on my off time.Once it goes back together, I'd hate to have to pull it apart again soon later..

You still have a leaking injector issue to resolve. If you don't have one, get a fuel pressure test gauge. perform a Key on-Engine off test to build max fuel pressure, then turn the key off & observe the fuel pressure bleed-down (seconds & pressure). based on your earlier comments, I would expect the test to confirm the leaking injector. Then, pull the plugs, one at a time, note the condition & smell the plug well for fuel odor. That should identify the leaking injector locat

The injectors are the stainless units from FIC and they are exactly 14 months old..I'm hoping they are not leaking but I will check that the next time I go out to mess with the car..Although the exhaust does smell like raw fuel(only when cold)..I came to the conclusion it was probably from not having any cats.I have also tried smelling the oil a few times and I can't smell the slightest bit of fuel..Now that you mentioned it I'm gonna check anyway.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Mitsumark

,....snip....
Im having fun with my new vac gauge/pump and also decide to pull the secondary hose on the passenger side of the plenum..I tried to apply 12-15' vac to it and it bled down instantly.Bad secondary parts?

There is a check valve in there that is notorious for getting stuck especially if you life is a dust/dirt filled environment.

Originally Posted by Mitsumark

So I shut the car and proceed to start pulling the plenum..Once removed,I'm surprised as there is plenty of oil inside..I also noticed the bases of the injector housings looked damp with oil so I pulled them too..They to had a good supply of oil in them..No wonder this thing is smoking..Can anyone tell me what would cause this much oil to be in the intake & IHs?This can't be normal..I'm going to clean these things out and reinstall everything..But first I'm gonna have to order some gaskets from Jerry..Also,,Where can I find all new parts to rebuild my secondary system(actuators,selonoid,resovoir)?This car hates me..

If you work on oil leaks in the "V" I'd advocate for the use of this type of

SERRATED LOCK WASHER

over loctite on all fasteners. They are oil proof.