LED or better head light options questio

[Mystic ZR-1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

HID version works beautifully. I?ll show you at Carlisle 23.

Yun
Looking forward to checking them out.
Happy Holidays!
See ya in Carlisle! Maybe even BG in May?

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Mystic ZR-1

Yun
Looking forward to checking them out.
Happy Holidays!
See ya in Carlisle! Maybe even BG in May?

Probably Carlisle.
Happy Holidays!

[Paul Workman]

I converted to LEDs a few years ago (and wrote an article for HOTB). I changed everything except interior lights (they were bright enough for me).
However, because there were a flood of such lights (primarily made in China where there was often no apparent concern for USA DOT restrictions, etc) without the appropriate cut-off for use on vehicles used on public highways, on-coming traffic could be/were being blinded by LED lights: became a large (and justified) complaint.
Making matters worse, not all LED lights had cut-off; intended for highway usage in low-beam mode. Add to that, not everyone installing the lights w/ cut-off feature were taking the time to properly aim them so that the cut-off line was below the eyes of on-coming drivers.
As result, many of the outlets for LED headlights have suspended offering them. However, the GE/Hawk LED lights were approved by most highway DOTs, and therefore are still available at some outlets (with some provisos in some locations) .

WORTH NOTING: The closer the headlights are to the pavement, the less likely the lights will bother on-coming drivers eyes (because if the cut-off line is angled down even slightly, it will always be below the eye level of on-coming eyes - even when the distance between cars is near zero!. And! The angle of the cut-off can be tweaked so as to illuminate the road a bit further out w/o blinding on-coming traffic. And, this provides an advantage for the Corvettes, and our C4s especially, as the headlights are closer to the pavement than many other cars and trucks. So, as long as the cut-off is parallel or slightly lower, a C4 (and other Vettes) can benefit from the low position of the LEDs, relative to the pavement.

DISCLAIMER: Check on local laws before installing any non-stock headlights to avoid possible encounters with local authorities.

[Johnny5]

I ordered the Eagle leds that look like GE nighthawk. I always adjust the aim but our cars are so low, i seem to get blinded by SUVs and other cars/trucks with either hi beams or HIDS/LEDs?maybe they don?t adjust em or just drive with Hi Beams on?.🤦🏼*♂️. I see these cars everyday, it is frustrating?especially when you?re in a low to ground sports car like my zr1 or Z06. That?s not cool. These people need to adjust their lights so they don?t blind oncoming traffic!

[tokuzumi]

I bought a set of LED headlights off of eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193121916884

They were cheap, at around $30/sealed housing. They plugged right in and worked without any kind of anti-flicker harness or load resistor required. If they go kaput after less than a year, I'll step up to a more genuine HID kit, or higher quality LEDs.

I am having good luck with the same type of cheapo LED headlights on my Datsun. Don't drive at night much, but I've had the lights for almost 3 years and they have been great.

[tnse]

Here are a few videos for the Holley LED retrobright headlights for those interested in a little more information for this option that keeps the car looking as original as possible:

https://youtu.be/Fz4jFVlA0xk

https://youtu.be/Luync7UYwsI

https://youtu.be/Mbxi8rNFrsk

https://youtu.be/dwRnvv57b9s

What different people may value and its worth to them depends on their goal and purpose. If it is just a different light temperature or a different bulb arrangement than the original halogen lights there are many options that will work to varying degrees. The Holley RetroBright lights are targeted for those seeking an original look - for restoration purposes with a more authentic period correct look. Other options exist if that is not the purpose and the goal of changing ones headlights is just to put light on the road ahead. Those who care a little more about an "original factory look" and how close a car looks to how it came when the car rolled off the line are less price sensitive. Being fully informed with options allows people to make decisions that fits their goals.

[ram_g]

Originally Posted by tokuzumi

I bought a set of LED headlights off of eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193121916884

They were cheap, at around $30/sealed housing. They plugged right in and worked without any kind of anti-flicker harness or load resistor required. If they go kaput after less than a year, I'll step up to a more genuine HID kit, or higher quality LEDs.

I am having good luck with the same type of cheapo LED headlights on my Datsun. Don't drive at night much, but I've had the lights for almost 3 years and they have been great.

Have you checked to see if your foglights work without any weirdness? If not, search for and implement the ?Yun mod? (and/or search for ?foglight ground?).

[tokuzumi]

Originally Posted by ram_g

Have you checked to see if your foglights work without any weirdness? If not, search for and implement the ?Yun mod? (and/or search for ?foglight ground?).

I noticed the bright light indicator was on, and wouldn't turn off using the blinker stalk. Ended up pushing the button for the fog lights, and bright indicator turned off.

Looks like I'll need to dig into the Yun mod.

[Paul Workman]

Well, to avoid 'cross over' side effects when installing LEDs, here are a few pointers you may want to consider before going hog wild w/ LED installs.

*The LIGHT EMITTING DIODE (LED) itself has a very low resistance, above initial voltage ("ON") threshold. Therefore, most all of the LEDs intended as replacements for regular bulbs are packaged with a series resistor to limit the current to prevent the LED itself from destruction. However, many circuits in (C4s) depend on a lower resistance, e.g., standard incandescent bulbs, to operate. and without the current draw resulting from a lower resistance (than replacement LED circuits have), all sorts of unintended (or 'cross-over') problems can occur.

So, there are solutions to keeping all the indicator lights, e.g., high beam indicator light, fog lites on (or off), blinker lights, turn signals, etc. operating.

Load Resistors wired across the input leads to the LED conversion will restore the normal current/voltage levels present before the LED(s) were installed. OR, installing a separate ground from the light to ground too can alleviate requirements for a load resistor while having the added advantage of reducing the DC load to the (alternator/battery) circuit.

Special switches (e.g., LED blinker switches in lieu of the standard (C4) stock blinker switches) are very helpful in avoiding issues with all of the turn signal bulb conversions, with or without LOAD resistors.

Nothing at all, in a few cases is necessary for a number of "dead-end" bulbs whose shared circuitry is NOT affected by the current/voltage changes installing certain LEDs will cause. For example, many of the LED replacement interior lights can be installed w/o any special consideration.

Below is the (orange) 25Ω load resistor across input to the FOG light that prevents in-cabin indicator light issues.
The cylinder can is the stock turn signal blinker. Replacing it with an LED (black (rectangular)) 2-pole switch allows the turn signals to operate normally w/o load resistors.

[-=Jeff=-]

I use this Hopper headlight aimer article here:
http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0079.html