Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech - Page 3 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

USAZR1 · 09-12-2014

So,to summarize what parts you're using to this point:
Gates #32919 SS clamps
Gates #4219-6184 Submersible Fuel Line Hose (2ft)
Eldon James #YO-5 SS 5/16 Y Fitting (1)
AC Delco #EB381 Fuel Pumps (2)

Anything else,Harvie?

twowire · 09-13-2014

Great info Harvie and thanks for posting this!

I've done many different things to the ZR-1 before, but never a fuel pump change so this is all new territory. Out of luck, no youtube videos on this.

The gauge in car works fine regarding the range, but it goes from full to empty using only 8-9 gallons, not the entire 18 gallon tank worth. Possibly the float switch going bad here too, but since the gauge seems to work fine through the range but most likely just over time the float limits the range due to the environment (or even rust development which happens on these cars). The car also takes a little while to start (I know this part is normal for the LT5 to crank a bit) and when warm it finally gets going then stumbles, spits and runs rough until it clears up after 20 seconds of running or so. I have not checked the fuel pressures yet , but will need to do that. It might be fuel pressure related. Anyways, seems like I might be better off replacing the whole fuel pump assembly and get the correct float rod angle, update the y fitting and hoses.

Neihoff P36 pumps are no longer available? Read old info they have metal parts vs others. It was from a while ago, who knows they might have ran to china too with the others in recent years

Harvie · 09-13-2014

do not look

just another one of my hack jobs.....

Harvie · 09-13-2014

I tried to get the hose to swell up and make it a PIA to get the wire harness off but failed miserably

Harvie · 09-13-2014

The gas flow is all fouled up, it just flows in even patterns instead of making 180 degree turns like Gm designed it, I really screwed this up.

yea those is two clamps on the top connection because of the increased fuel pressure and the connection is a non barbed hd fitting (like that $32 dollar stainless steel y)

Harvie · 09-13-2014

Top it all off I screwed up the guaranteed warranty work (for the dealer mechanics) by protecting those pesky wires that always are rubbing on the sharp metal gas filler pipe and shorting out stuff.

Don't worry though, it only happens when the tank has fuel in it and the car is in motion bouncing down the road. For those reasons it may never happen to many cars.

It used to give the dealers a reason they put 80 miles on your car test driving it, to find the problem

Roadster · 09-13-2014

Everyone has their opinions on everything in life. While we may agree or disagree, is not the point. The object of the forum is to provide info on maintaining and keeping our ZR-1's just as good (if you agree) and or better than what they were when new. And just to enjoy the ownership of the ZR-1.
So I enjoy any members ideas that make an improvement over what we have and showing that it will work better than what it was.....
As far as members expressing their opinions on certain issues, not pertaining to the forum, that is for the moderators to police IMO.
I welcome Harvie's (or anyone elses) thoughts and improvements, and testing over the stock components anytime, regardless of their opinions, because either you agree with them or you don't....and BTW, I am a union member 39 years next month with the same company. But I am here for the ZR-1 and enjoying every minute of it......Ok, enough, I knew I had too much time on my hands today.........

BTW Harvie, nice write-up.......

Harvie · 09-14-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by USAZR1

So,to summarize what parts you're using to this point:
Gates #32919 SS clamps
Gates #4219-6184 Submersible Fuel Line Hose (2ft)
Eldon James #YO-5 SS 5/16 Y Fitting (1)
AC Delco #EB381 Fuel Pumps (2)

Anything else,Harvie?

Those hoses will work if you upgrade to 3/8 fuel supply lines see pics above for 5/16 fuel lines that are stock in the car. RockAuto has all the stuff and ships very quickly.

twowire · 11-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harvie

Those hoses will work if you upgrade to 3/8 fuel supply lines see pics above for 5/16 fuel lines that are stock in the car. RockAuto has all the stuff and ships very quickly.

I put this on the backburner, but have to get this done.

Does rockauto also have the steel Y too for stock pump? I cannot find it there yet - seen the plastic ones. If they do, can you share the rockauto part number for the steel Y if rockauto? Thanks

RyanChappel · 11-04-2014

Thanks for contributing your fixes, and for taking the time to photograph and provide the source material to those items you trust.

It is the willingness of several posters here to share their knowledge and experience (and opinions), and to take their valuable time to support us all that makes this site one of the best, if not the very best, in the Corvette world.

09-12-2014	#21
USAZR1 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Wichita Falls,Tx Posts: 604	Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech So,to summarize what parts you're using to this point: Gates #32919 SS clamps Gates #4219-6184 Submersible Fuel Line Hose (2ft) Eldon James #YO-5 SS 5/16 Y Fitting (1) AC Delco #EB381 Fuel Pumps (2) Anything else,Harvie? __________________ Clint & Sherry 1994 ZR-1 White/Red #152 (sold) 1991 ZR-1 Callaway Aerobody #1332 (sold) 1990 ZR-1 Red/Red #952 (sold) 2002 Z06 Torch Red/Mod Red widebody

09-13-2014	#22
twowire Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 31	Re: Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech Great info Harvie and thanks for posting this! I've done many different things to the ZR-1 before, but never a fuel pump change so this is all new territory. Out of luck, no youtube videos on this. The gauge in car works fine regarding the range, but it goes from full to empty using only 8-9 gallons, not the entire 18 gallon tank worth. Possibly the float switch going bad here too, but since the gauge seems to work fine through the range but most likely just over time the float limits the range due to the environment (or even rust development which happens on these cars). The car also takes a little while to start (I know this part is normal for the LT5 to crank a bit) and when warm it finally gets going then stumbles, spits and runs rough until it clears up after 20 seconds of running or so. I have not checked the fuel pressures yet , but will need to do that. It might be fuel pressure related. Anyways, seems like I might be better off replacing the whole fuel pump assembly and get the correct float rod angle, update the y fitting and hoses. Neihoff P36 pumps are no longer available? Read old info they have metal parts vs others. It was from a while ago, who knows they might have ran to china too with the others in recent years Last edited by twowire; 09-14-2014 at 10:50 AM.

09-13-2014	#23
Harvie Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: In my house Posts: 103	Re: Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech do not look just another one of my hack jobs..... __________________ Charter Member (since the 91) of the 1ST ZR1 Registry 1st vet $157.59. mo for 3 years new 2nd new 1 check & STILL eating funds years later [-X show poodles & trailer queens :-({\|= Fast and fun not pretty in pink.

09-13-2014	#24
Harvie Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: In my house Posts: 103	Re: Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech I tried to get the hose to swell up and make it a PIA to get the wire harness off but failed miserably __________________ Charter Member (since the 91) of the 1ST ZR1 Registry 1st vet $157.59. mo for 3 years new 2nd new 1 check & STILL eating funds years later [-X show poodles & trailer queens :-({\|= Fast and fun not pretty in pink.

09-13-2014	#25
Harvie Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: In my house Posts: 103	Re: Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech The gas flow is all fouled up, it just flows in even patterns instead of making 180 degree turns like Gm designed it, I really screwed this up. yea those is two clamps on the top connection because of the increased fuel pressure and the connection is a non barbed hd fitting (like that $32 dollar stainless steel y) __________________ Charter Member (since the 91) of the 1ST ZR1 Registry 1st vet $157.59. mo for 3 years new 2nd new 1 check & STILL eating funds years later [-X show poodles & trailer queens :-({\|= Fast and fun not pretty in pink.

09-13-2014	#27
Roadster Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Warrington PA Posts: 1,913	Re: Replacing the in tank fuel stuff w/current tech Everyone has their opinions on everything in life. While we may agree or disagree, is not the point. The object of the forum is to provide info on maintaining and keeping our ZR-1's just as good (if you agree) and or better than what they were when new. And just to enjoy the ownership of the ZR-1. So I enjoy any members ideas that make an improvement over what we have and showing that it will work better than what it was..... As far as members expressing their opinions on certain issues, not pertaining to the forum, that is for the moderators to police IMO. I welcome Harvie's (or anyone elses) thoughts and improvements, and testing over the stock components anytime, regardless of their opinions, because either you agree with them or you don't....and BTW, I am a union member 39 years next month with the same company. But I am here for the ZR-1 and enjoying every minute of it......Ok, enough, I knew I had too much time on my hands today......... BTW Harvie, nice write-up....... __________________ Tom 1994 ZR-1 #009 "captured test fleet car" 1974 LS4 454 Vert 1982 L83 CFI...now a retired "dd"....Sold WAZOO Member

11-04-2014	#30
RyanChappel Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Boone County, Indiana Posts: 132	To Harvie; Thanks for contributing your fixes, and for taking the time to photograph and provide the source material to those items you trust. It is the willingness of several posters here to share their knowledge and experience (and opinions), and to take their valuable time to support us all that makes this site one of the best, if not the very best, in the Corvette world.