Did you eliminate your Secondary Throttle Vacuum System?

[RussMcB]

There are a few variations. You can leave the parts in place, but just make them non-functional (so the throttle plates do not close). Or you can remove everything related to the secondaries (including the throttle plates). Or something in between.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by RussMcB

There are a few variations. You can leave the parts in place, but just make them non-functional (so the throttle plates do not close). Or you can remove everything related to the secondaries (including the throttle plates). Or something in between.

But the throttle plates do have to be either removed or wired open. That is not an option. Easiest is to wire them open. Some unscrew the plates from the shafts and leave the shafts in place. Others remove everything, shafts and all, however this generally requires removal of the heads and resealing of the shaft holes in the heads.
H

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

But the throttle plates do have to be either removed or wired open. That is not an option. Easiest is to wire them open. Some unscrew the plates from the shafts and leave the shafts in place. Others remove everything, shafts and all, however this generally requires removal of the heads and resealing of the shaft holes in the heads.
H

No removing of the heads necessary. Only the cover of that crankcase gizzy cover in the valley toward the front of the motor.

I highly recommend one FIRST PLUGS THE RUNNERS with a wad of paper toweling to prevent dropping a screw down inside the head. THAT could mean removing having to pull the motor and the head should the valve be open (my luck!) and the screw couldn't be retrieved with a magnet or the like.

Then the shaft and the bearing can be removed together, and (I used) a Dorman freeze plug and JB Weld to seal the hole left by the bearing/shaft.

To extract the shaft and bearing, once the actuator and linkage was removed, I used a 1/2" long (3/4" ID, IIRC) piece of metal conduit tubing placed over the bearing and placed a fender washer over the top (capping the conduit piece) so the threaded end of the shaft protrudes.

The little nut from the actuator linkage arm(s) is then reinstalled and screwed down onto the fender washer. Continue screwing it down against the washer, thus extracting the shaft and the bearing together. Voila!

I'll have to look up the Dorman plug #; a metric size approx 3/4" in dia., but per Pete's recommendation I smeared a little JB Weld on the edges of the Dorman plug. Then placing the Dorman over a 3/8" socket on the end of a short extension, a hammer was used to drive the Dorman into the void left by the bearing and sealing the hole securely.

Put the air box cover back on... Done w/ all that secondary BS (with the addition of Marc's delete chip and removal of the vacuum line to the SPT MAP switch).

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

No removing of the heads necessary. Only the cover of that crankcase gizzy cover in the valley toward the front of the motor.

I highly recommend one FIRST PLUGS THE RUNNERS with a wad of paper toweling to prevent dropping a screw down inside the head. THAT could mean removing having to pull the motor and the head should the valve be open (my luck!) and the screw couldn't be retrieved with a magnet or the like.

Then the shaft and the bearing can be removed together, and (I used) a Dorman freeze plug and JB Weld to seal the hole left by the bearing/shaft.

To extract the shaft and bearing, once the actuator and linkage was removed, I used a 1/2" long (3/4" ID, IIRC) piece of metal conduit tubing placed over the bearing and placed a fender washer over the top (capping the conduit piece) so the threaded end of the shaft protrudes.

The little nut from the actuator linkage arm(s) is then reinstalled and screwed down onto the fender washer. Continue screwing it down against the washer, thus extracting the shaft and the bearing together. Voila!

I'll have to look up the Dorman plug #; a metric size approx 3/4" in dia., but per Pete's recommendation I smeared a little JB Weld on the edges of the Dorman plug. Then placing the Dorman over a 3/8" socket on the end of a short extension, a hammer was used to drive the Dorman into the void left by the bearing and sealing the hole securely.

Put the air box cover back on... Done w/ all that secondary BS (with the addition of Marc's delete chip and removal of the vacuum line to the SPT MAP switch).

Correctamundo

[MuRCieLaGo]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

No removing of the heads necessary. Only the cover of that crankcase gizzy cover in the valley toward the front of the motor.

I highly recommend one FIRST PLUGS THE RUNNERS with a wad of paper toweling to prevent dropping a screw down inside the head. THAT could mean removing having to pull the motor and the head should the valve be open (my luck!) and the screw couldn't be retrieved with a magnet or the like.

Then the shaft and the bearing can be removed together, and (I used) a Dorman freeze plug and JB Weld to seal the hole left by the bearing/shaft.

To extract the shaft and bearing, once the actuator and linkage was removed, I used a 1/2" long (3/4" ID, IIRC) piece of metal conduit tubing placed over the bearing and placed a fender washer over the top (capping the conduit piece) so the threaded end of the shaft protrudes.

The little nut from the actuator linkage arm(s) is then reinstalled and screwed down onto the fender washer. Continue screwing it down against the washer, thus extracting the shaft and the bearing together. Voila!

I'll have to look up the Dorman plug #; a metric size approx 3/4" in dia., but per Pete's recommendation I smeared a little JB Weld on the edges of the Dorman plug. Then placing the Dorman over a 3/8" socket on the end of a short extension, a hammer was used to drive the Dorman into the void left by the bearing and sealing the hole securely.

Put the air box cover back on... Done w/ all that secondary BS (with the addition of Marc's delete chip and removal of the vacuum line to the SPT MAP switch).

Okay I'm happy I've read this. I really don't feel like pulling the engine out of the bay yet. I thought it was an easy "one-afternoon" DIY. I don't want to get involved in such an hassle.

I'll just fix it, it doesn't seem to be much complicated.

[A26B]

I should read more before responding🤤

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

No removing of the heads necessary. Only the cover of that crankcase gizzy cover in the valley toward the front of the motor.

I highly recommend one FIRST PLUGS THE RUNNERS with a wad of paper toweling to prevent dropping a screw down inside the head. THAT could mean removing having to pull the motor and the head should the valve be open (my luck!) and the screw couldn't be retrieved with a magnet or the like.

Then the shaft and the bearing can be removed together, and (I used) a Dorman freeze plug and JB Weld to seal the hole left by the bearing/shaft.

To extract the shaft and bearing, once the actuator and linkage was removed, I used a 1/2" long (3/4" ID, IIRC) piece of metal conduit tubing placed over the bearing and placed a fender washer over the top (capping the conduit piece) so the threaded end of the shaft protrudes.

The little nut from the actuator linkage arm(s) is then reinstalled and screwed down onto the fender washer. Continue screwing it down against the washer, thus extracting the shaft and the bearing together. Voila!

I'll have to look up the Dorman plug #; a metric size approx 3/4" in dia., but per Pete's recommendation I smeared a little JB Weld on the edges of the Dorman plug. Then placing the Dorman over a 3/8" socket on the end of a short extension, a hammer was used to drive the Dorman into the void left by the bearing and sealing the hole securely.

Put the air box cover back on... Done w/ all that secondary BS (with the addition of Marc's delete chip and removal of the vacuum line to the SPT MAP switch).

Paul,
Sounds like your next article for HOTB! Can’t wait...
H

[oricale]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

No removing of the heads necessary. Only the cover of that crankcase gizzy cover in the valley toward the front of the motor.

I highly recommend one FIRST PLUGS THE RUNNERS with a wad of paper toweling to prevent dropping a screw down inside the head. THAT could mean removing having to pull the motor and the head should the valve be open (my luck!) and the screw couldn't be retrieved with a magnet or the like.

Then the shaft and the bearing can be removed together, and (I used) a Dorman freeze plug and JB Weld to seal the hole left by the bearing/shaft.

To extract the shaft and bearing, once the actuator and linkage was removed, I used a 1/2" long (3/4" ID, IIRC) piece of metal conduit tubing placed over the bearing and placed a fender washer over the top (capping the conduit piece) so the threaded end of the shaft protrudes.

The little nut from the actuator linkage arm(s) is then reinstalled and screwed down onto the fender washer. Continue screwing it down against the washer, thus extracting the shaft and the bearing together. Voila!

I'll have to look up the Dorman plug #; a metric size approx 3/4" in dia., but per Pete's recommendation I smeared a little JB Weld on the edges of the Dorman plug. Then placing the Dorman over a 3/8" socket on the end of a short extension, a hammer was used to drive the Dorman into the void left by the bearing and sealing the hole securely.

Put the air box cover back on... Done w/ all that secondary BS (with the addition of Marc's delete chip and removal of the vacuum line to the SPT MAP switch).

Dorman #555-108

Sent from my SM-G955U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[Pete]

Originally Posted by oricale

Dorman #555-108

Loctite 620

Pete

[rkreigh]

Originally Posted by Pete

Loctite 620

Pete

so true! the LSV popped one of those little suckers out last year after 20k plus miles of no secondaries


we were running at the track and the huge vacuum leak made for an interesting trip home