Header install questions.

[todesengel]

I would be more inclined to believe the warpage is a result of the welding, not the ceramic application. I am just not quite sure how that process could warp the flange.

I have built many turbo headers, and if you do not take your time with the welds, and weld too much, too fast, you run a strong possibility of warping it.

I am not claiming to be correct in what I am saying, but there is a right, and a wrong way to do everything to me. My opinion is that if you know something is not up to par BEFORE you put it on, you only have yourself to blame down the road when you start having issues. I wont put dirty underwear on after a shower, I wont do an oil change without changing the filter, and I won't put a part on my car that I know isn't right. Everyone is different, and so is everyones acceptable variances.

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Hey, buddy!
I just measured mine with a straight edge, and I have .028 and .026 respectively. FWIW, they didn't leak in spite of not having ALL the bolts screwed in (common situation, even from the factory, I'm told), and I used the standard 19ft lb torque on one of Eric's gaskets and no red silicone either.

Hmmm.... 80 tho seems a bit much, but I don't have any other SW headers to reference to. Some SBC header flanges have been at least that far off and more, but I digress...

You might be able to knock off the high spots a little with a long flat file - enough to bring the gap down to .030 (guessing, based on my .028 not being a problem in spite of using no silicone), you might be good.

I don't know that 80 tho is an issue or not easily correctable to an acceptable gap, but I would call SW if you haven't already to discuss it w/ them. Also, Eric sells exhaust gaskets, and his input would be welcome 'bout now. (I wonder if the ceramic coating process resulted in some of the warpage??? Just a thought.)

Bottom line: At this point I wouldn't be too alarmed. You may be able to heat them and re-shape them a little, or like I said, file off just enough to get in the ballpark. But, the fact that the heads are aluminum gives me pause too. If they were cast iron, I know from experience and fussing with headers on SBCs 80 tho is "workable" (with a little filing and good gaskets!).

I too will be interested to hear what others may have to say.

P.

[todesengel]

yes, that is a real risk.

I was going to mill mine prior to sending off for the coating, but since I am not using mine they just sit on a shelf.

I can check mine for you if you like when I get to the shop.

Originally Posted by aod

I guess what angers me then, is with the price I paid for these why didn't they take care of doing that? If I mill them now, I believe I might run the risk of the ceramic chipping off in other places afterwards, correct? Ugh.

[aod]

Originally Posted by todesengel

yes, that is a real risk.

I was going to mill mine prior to sending off for the coating, but since I am not using mine they just sit on a shelf.

I can check mine for you if you like when I get to the shop.

Yes please, I'm very curious how far others are out before I make a decision on this.

[Jagdpanzer]

I went the same route a couple of years back with SW Jet Hot coated headers and Stage 8 header bolts. Also found the flanges to be off a little bit but they sealed up perfectly with new gasket and the bolts torqued up properly. However I did not install the locking tabs that came with the Stage 8 bolts as they looked to be more trouble to put on than they were worth. I've checked them a couple of times since and none have loosened.
I went with the Stage 8 bolts because of the 8mm 12 point bolt head which are I found easier to install in the holes with tight header pipe clearance.
Be sure to start all bolts first by a couple of threads then continue tightening each a couple of turns at a time until all are drawn up. Otherwise you may not be able to install the ones with tight clearance. With this approach I was able to install all 28 bolts. Be sure to run a tap down the cylinder head bolt holes and blow out with air so the new header bolts screw in easily.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

For what it is worth, I am also a SW, JETHOT coated person and after seeing this I did the straight edge check since my motor is still apart. I found it warped too and had no idea as it is in several places and about .023 off depending where I put the straight edge and on different ends.

Having said that, I also had no leak issues using the OEM gasket torqued to specs. I also am a Stage 8 bolt user. The only thing I found is when I was taken them off with the locks (aluminum) I believe it was two that I had to fish out and can't get with a magnet when 1 popped and flew taking off the clip and the other just dropped. Otherwise, I love them and they will not come loose since the tab with hit the header if it happens to loosen in time.