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Old 02-25-2010   #21
A26B
 
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arcadia,OK
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Default Re: I am ready!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
Say......after visiting the Corvette Babes section, studying Jeff's Avatar again and doing some more thinking........are you saying that your "O" ring (oil pickup for 91' Z) is thicker than OEM with greater compression and resulting greater sealing?


Yes it is. Note in the drawing that the o-ring I specify, has a cross-section (thickness) of 0.157" and the OEM o-ring is 0.117". You are absolutely correct that the result is "greater compression" ( I prefer to call it proper compression) but the results would be increased differential pressure sealing capability. The stack height of the o-ring groove depth plus the compressed gasket thickness is only 0.004" less than the OEM o-ring cross section (thickness), putting only 0.004" compression on the o-ring, the same amount as an ordinary sheet of copy paper is thick.
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2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

Last edited by A26B; 10-01-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 02-26-2010   #22
secondchance
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,704
Default Re: I am ready!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post

On the new secondary actuators (canisters), I took both of them to a grinding wheel and relieved the shaft on the top a bit where the shaft goes into the canister. When I installed them correctly, one of the shafts actually touched the top edge of the hole in the canister before I relieved the shaft.
A little tough to understand exactly. I am sure once installed and I create vacuum w/ a hand held, if there are any binding or interferences I will see it for sure.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 02-26-2010   #23
Dynomite
 
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Location: South Dakota/California
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Default Modification of secondary canister

Quote:
Originally Posted by secondchance View Post
A little tough to understand exactly. I am sure once installed and I create vacuum w/ a hand held, if there are any binding or interferences I will see it for sure.

Thanks for the heads up.
Here is a picture of a new canister and just above the "749" I ground a bit on the shaft (about an inch long where I ground). The shaft moves side to side and up and down a bit as the red rubber bellows sucks the shaft into the canister. On one of my canisters the shaft (just above the "749") actually touched the top edge of the 3/4 inch diameter hole in the canister as the shaft was sucked into the canister. I relieved both canisters the same way as both canisters had the same issue.

The picture was taken after I ground the top edge of the shaft so as you can see, it does not take much grinding to get clearance required. I was thinking of grinding from left to right on the top edge of the shaft all the way to the first hole eliminating the step down on the shaft just after the first hole but that is not necessary. It could be either top edge, bottom edge or both top and bottom edges of the shaft you might grind depending where you need more clearance.

I would install the canisters the correct way and then apply a vacuum to each and watch them as the shaft is sucked into the canister to make sure there are no issues. I actually have an extra vacuum pump I hot wired and connected to each canister but you can run a long rubber vacuum line (you can buy vacuum line by the 4-6 ft length very cheap from any auto parts store - get correct inside diameter) from your existing vacuum pump to each canister and hot wire your existing vacuum pump to get the same vacuum.

Correct installation would be for this canister installed on the passenger side with the "749" up right as you see it. Or for those in the mid west.......North side of Z with Z facing West


Last edited by Dynomite; 07-10-2010 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 02-26-2010   #24
secondchance
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,704
Default Re: I am ready!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
Here is a picture of a new canister and just above the "749" I ground a bit on the shaft (about an inch long where I ground). The shaft moves side to side and up and down a bit as the red rubber bellows sucks the shaft into the canister. On one of my canisters the shaft (just above the "749") actually touched the top edge of the 3/4 inch diameter hole in the canister as the shaft was sucked into the canister. I relieved both canisters the same way as both canisters had the same issue.

The picture was taken after I ground the top edge of the shaft so as you can see, it does not take much grinding to get clearance required. I was thinking of grinding from left to right on the top edge of the shaft all the way to the first hole eliminating the step down on the shaft just after the first hole but that is not necessary. It could be either top edge, bottom edge or both top and bottom edges of the shaft you might grind depending where you need more clearance.

I would install the canisters the correct way and then apply a vacuum to each and watch them as the shaft is sucked into the canister to make sure there are no issues. I actually have an extra vacuum pump I hot wired and connected to each canister but you can run a long rubber vacuum line (you can buy vacuum line by the 4-6 ft length very cheap from any auto parts store - get correct inside diameter) from your existing vacuum pump to each canister and hot wire your existing vacuum pump to get the same vacuum.

Correct installation would be for this canister installed on the passenger side with the "749" up right as you see it. Or for those in the mid west.......North side of Z with Z facing West

Understood 100%.
Thank you for such detailed information.
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