Power window - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

secondchance · 01-30-2013

My driver side power window has been a bit slow starting from full down position to about 1/4 up then would move at normal speed. Interestingly, this reluctance gets worse with colder temperture. A couple of days ago when the weather got real cold, with the motor running (takes weak battery out of the equation), window took for ever to peak out from behind the door panel.
Does electric motor weaken with age? I always thought the electric motor either worked or quit. Also, could this be the counter-balance spring loosing its tension having gone through so many cycles and cold temp is aggrevating the loss of tension?
Either way, I think I will just replace the entire regulator assembly but sorta got curious.

GOLDCYLON · 01-30-2013

Check you door edge seal as well during the down travel on the top of the door panel. You may need to bend it in a bit if the window is dragging it down. Its metal backed but do it slow as they are only pop rivoted to the back side of the door which get brittle with age.

Short answer is yes the motors do wear as the internal gears bind and wear. The Drivers door window gets the most wear due to ATM etc use up and down action.

Also the tracks, locks, pivots all need a good lubing once in a while to reduce wear on the motor. Pull the door panel take a look. If the motor is rivoted in place its an original motor. Its not springs etc

GC

WVZR-1 · 01-30-2013

Your door seals aren't but a year or so old so I'd doubt that your problem but just a good cleaning and a "lube job" can certainly help. There's stabilizers that wear and are used for the adjustment that can also create issues.

GOLDCYLON · 01-30-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Your door seals aren't but a year or so old so I'd doubt that your problem but just a good cleaning and a "lube job" can certainly help. There's stabilizers that wear and are used for the adjustment that can also create issues.

Actually new door seals are a problem if they are not adjusted right. Been there done that. When new they create too much drag on the window and need to be adjusted away from the window.

secondchance · 01-30-2013

My regulators are factory pieces - I had the car since 2000, so I am pretty sure was never replaced.
I think I will just install a new regulator.

Daryl,

Understand your point but don't want to loosen seals or the metal pieces with bristle too much since that can cause window to rattle when partially down - like them nice and tight.
It was just odd since operation is outside temp dependent.

GOLDCYLON · 01-30-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

My regulators are factory pieces - I had the car since 2000, so I am pretty sure was never replaced.
I think I will just install a new regulator.

Daryl,

Understand your point but don't want to loosen seals or the metal pieces with bristle too much since that can cause window to rattle when partially down - like them nice and tight.
It was just odd since operation is outside temp dependent.

Clean and lube up that regualator and get back to us.

Fully Vetted · 01-30-2013

If you guys (and OP) don't mind I'd like to piggy back on this since it close to on topic. Is there a stop adjustment for these windows? My drivers side rolls up too far and will actually strike the A pillar/Roof panel if rolled up all the way before closing the door. It has even cracked the A pillar weatherstrip from PO rolling the window up too far with the door closed and putting too much pessure on the weatherstrip.

Thanks for letting me jump in here.

WVZR-1 · 01-30-2013

The FSM in 10-6-12 for the later MY's has quite detailed images of all of the stops, guides and stabilizer for glass adjustment. The procedures are pretty well outlined also. I don't recall it being as detailed in he earlier MY FSM's. Might be but I don't recall.

Fully Vetted · 01-31-2013

Thanks, WV. I'll look it up.

Carry on...

01-30-2013	#1
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,705	Power window My driver side power window has been a bit slow starting from full down position to about 1/4 up then would move at normal speed. Interestingly, this reluctance gets worse with colder temperture. A couple of days ago when the weather got real cold, with the motor running (takes weak battery out of the equation), window took for ever to peak out from behind the door panel. Does electric motor weaken with age? I always thought the electric motor either worked or quit. Also, could this be the counter-balance spring loosing its tension having gone through so many cycles and cold temp is aggrevating the loss of tension? Either way, I think I will just replace the entire regulator assembly but sorta got curious.

01-30-2013	#2
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,153	Re: Power window Check you door edge seal as well during the down travel on the top of the door panel. You may need to bend it in a bit if the window is dragging it down. Its metal backed but do it slow as they are only pop rivoted to the back side of the door which get brittle with age. Short answer is yes the motors do wear as the internal gears bind and wear. The Drivers door window gets the most wear due to ATM etc use up and down action. Also the tracks, locks, pivots all need a good lubing once in a while to reduce wear on the motor. Pull the door panel take a look. If the motor is rivoted in place its an original motor. Its not springs etc GC __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 01-30-2013 at 09:51 AM.

01-30-2013	#3
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,889	Re: Power window Your door seals aren't but a year or so old so I'd doubt that your problem but just a good cleaning and a "lube job" can certainly help. There's stabilizers that wear and are used for the adjustment that can also create issues.

01-30-2013	#5
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,705	Re: Power window My regulators are factory pieces - I had the car since 2000, so I am pretty sure was never replaced. I think I will just install a new regulator. Daryl, Understand your point but don't want to loosen seals or the metal pieces with bristle too much since that can cause window to rattle when partially down - like them nice and tight. It was just odd since operation is outside temp dependent.

01-30-2013	#7
Fully Vetted Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Rockwall, Tx Posts: 1,510	Re: Power window If you guys (and OP) don't mind I'd like to piggy back on this since it close to on topic. Is there a stop adjustment for these windows? My drivers side rolls up too far and will actually strike the A pillar/Roof panel if rolled up all the way before closing the door. It has even cracked the A pillar weatherstrip from PO rolling the window up too far with the door closed and putting too much pessure on the weatherstrip. Thanks for letting me jump in here. __________________ _________________ 1994 AB/Grey #141 430 RWHP/392 RWTQ FBI Lyposuction / Secondaries relieved of duty / SW Long Tube Headers / Corsa Exhaust / FIC SS Injectors / MSD Coils / Lightweight Pulleys / Corey tuned B & M Shifter / Aluminum Flywheel / Samco Hoses / Shelby Series One's / C4 No Flex Frame Stiffener BBC - Bling By Carter: Custom ZR-1 Center Caps / Custom Plenum Plate / Air Box Knobs / TB Cover / Oil Filter Cover Last edited by Fully Vetted; 01-30-2013 at 06:55 PM.

01-30-2013	#8
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,889	Re: Power window The FSM in 10-6-12 for the later MY's has quite detailed images of all of the stops, guides and stabilizer for glass adjustment. The procedures are pretty well outlined also. I don't recall it being as detailed in he earlier MY FSM's. Might be but I don't recall.

01-31-2013	#9
Fully Vetted Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Rockwall, Tx Posts: 1,510	Re: Power window Thanks, WV. I'll look it up. Carry on... __________________ _________________ 1994 AB/Grey #141 430 RWHP/392 RWTQ FBI Lyposuction / Secondaries relieved of duty / SW Long Tube Headers / Corsa Exhaust / FIC SS Injectors / MSD Coils / Lightweight Pulleys / Corey tuned B & M Shifter / Aluminum Flywheel / Samco Hoses / Shelby Series One's / C4 No Flex Frame Stiffener BBC - Bling By Carter: Custom ZR-1 Center Caps / Custom Plenum Plate / Air Box Knobs / TB Cover / Oil Filter Cover