Changing clutch – can I do this myself?

[rhipsher]

The cats won't be in the way. Just drop the exhaust. The C beam will be your biggest obstacle. Once you've unbolted it you'll need a rubber mallet to tap it back out of the way to free your transmission so it can drop.

[ghlkal]

last question (maybe )

Thoughts on this valeo clutch kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170622935008...#ht_2141wt_807

("fits" ZR-1 ... was this the original clutch?)

[VetteMed]

clutch disc may be correct, but pressure plate isn't quite correct, it's usable, with longer bolts. Not a bad option for the price.

[cvette98pacecar]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

OH!

Forgot to mention it before, but before you disconnect the drive shaft from the differential, mark the shaft and the yoke on the diff or you might reinstal it 180º from where it was, and likely cause vibration or "buzzing" at high(er) speed...Ain't dat right Lee? (And, for future, if you ever replace the U joints, same marking goes for the transmission end of the driveshaft too!)

Remove the MAP and fuel pressure regulator from the back of the plenum, or you might pinch them between the plenum and the firewall when tilting the motor to pull the trans. Good time to clean up the grounds too, since they're right there and easy to get to once the bell housing is off.

No time like the present to change to an aluminum FW too, but I digress...
And, another thing not mentioned yet: A bottle jack is needed along with the floor jack. You use it to support the engine when pulling the trans and reinstalling it too, and when aligning the C-beam after wards (before the bolts are tightened at either end) the tail of the trans (via the C-beam reference) needs to be approx 1" from the side of the beam to the tunnel, and approx 1-3/4" from the "roof", ± 1/4".



Hmmm.... Do I sense someone about to write up a checklist for the Registry newsletter??? HMMMMM????

P.

Paul, I ordered Bill B. Beam plates for the ruby are those dimension the same when installing Beam plates?

[VetteMed]

When you order the Beam Plates, Bill includes 2 pieces of steel that are used as gauges for approximating the correct distances as referenced in Paul's post.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by cvette98pacecar

Paul, I ordered Bill B. Beam plates for the ruby are those dimension the same when installing Beam plates?

Yes. Be sure to mesure (using the two metal jigs) between the beam itself & the tunnel, not between the beam plate and the tunnel.

P.

[scottfab]

I would not put it up on jack stands as high as they'll go.
I've done this several times using both these ways.
If you can bench 160lb or so......
Get it just high enough that you can comfortably bench press the 149lb ZF6 up OR us a regular floor jack. Just balance the ZF6 on it as you jack it up. Use 6in bolts (two) with the heads cut off at the top of the bell housing to guide the ZF6 on and off. I put on at 10 o'clock an the onther at 2 oclock.

Beam plates? Yah I supose if you have time but if you're focusing on one thing at a time (clutch) you can skip it.
Pilot bearing and throw out bearing? Absolutely.
Drain ZF6? Yah if you haven't service the ZF6 recently and it's old oil.
I've just put a plastic bag over the end with good results.
I use the GM standard 10W30 oil in it.

Careful taking the rubber boot off the shifter. It can tear.
Get a spline alignment tool for the clutch plate. With practice you can slide the ZF6 on without it but as a first timer I'd get one.
The pilot bearing takes a special tool to get out or you can fabricate one as I did.
Let's see, I think that's about it. The usual inspection of the pressure plate and flywheel is necessary. Resurfacing the fly wheel is no big deal to have done but the pressure plate can be problematic as it has a slight concave surface form the factory.

In cast the above was not clear. Get yourself two long 6in bolts that match the thread of the bolts that hold the ZF6 to the bell housing. Cut the heads off and grind a slot where the heads were. This is for a flat blade screw driver should they get in too tight. With these sticking out of the bell housing you can keep the weight of the ZF6 off the shaft AND keep control over it as you slide it off (and on).

Be prepared for the bolts on the C beam. If they've not been off in a while they can be TIGHT.
As is common practice mark the drive shaft to get in on the same way both at the rear and front.
Inspect the slave cyl for leaks. Replace if necessary. Lots can be said about this but not now.

Once done you will have had one hell of a work out.
Good luck.

[rhipsher]

I strongly suggest installing the beam plates. And I think most here would agree. Unless you have small hands the size of a 6 year old you will save youself allot of time and trouble not only trying to menuver both the nuts up in there but menuvering an 18MM wrench up in that tight space and getting enough leverage on it to tighten them. Sorry Scott I totally disagree with skipping it.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by rhipsher

I strongly suggest installing the beam plates. And I think most here would agree. Unless you have small hands the size of a 6 year old you will save youself allot of time and trouble not only trying to menuver both the nuts up in there but menuvering an 18MM wrench up in that tight space and getting enough leverage on it to tighten them. Sorry Scott I totally disagree with skipping it.

Agree 100%

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by rhipsher

I strongly suggest installing the beam plates. And I think most here would agree. Unless you have small hands the size of a 6 year old you will save youself allot of time and trouble not only trying to menuver both the nuts up in there but menuvering an 18MM wrench up in that tight space and getting enough leverage on it to tighten them. Sorry Scott I totally disagree with skipping it.

Me 2!

ghlkal...

1) Just taking the bolts out of the beam for the first time will convince you "there must be a better way". Even with average size hands it is a bitch trying to get in there, especially to reinstal - keeping the washer from sliding to the side while trying to get the nut over the hole AND screwing the bolt in when you can't put your fingers on the nut cuz they're too big to fit... Worth every friggin penny if for no other reason than to ease removal and reistalling the beam, IMO. And, you don't use the washers with the plates as the plates now serve the purpose and then some. (I haven't tried it yet, but I don't see why one couldn't smear some (blue) Locktite under the plates so that they would remain in place next time the beam had to come off, for any reason. Hmmm.... Have to think about that some...)

2) In fact the plates were designed to address the problem of slippage and squirming at the beam joints, resulting in the rear end wanting to kick out under WOT. The first time I pulled the beam off my Z I noticed the holes in the beam at the differential were oval - indicating the joint had been shuttling back and forth a bit. (I haven't experienced the rear kicking out with the plates in place, FWIW.)

P.