Radiator options

[Karl]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

My comments regarding the performance of the Fluidyne dealt w the fact it was actually too good at cooling the motor. During a recent drive in 35F weather, the coolant temp had much difficulty getting above the temp for allowing Closed Loop operation. It worked fine in summer and fall temps. My OE radiator needed to be cleaned and I decided to swap in the Fluidyne for extra cooling w A/C. My wife won't get in the car during the summer unless I run the A/C.
I'm using stock thermo.

Maybe I was mistaken but I believe sitting in traffic with the.AC on the fluidyne radiator got up to 227 which is marginally better than stock.

I like to use the air conditioner. Combine that with a hot humid summer day in traffic 227 and rising is not where I want to be.

I have a under drive water pump so that does not help.

I went with a champion three core unit. Should be here and in soon.

Also looking at upgrading the cooling fans if need be.

[secondchance]

I got tired of OEM radiors failing, typically, at plastic tank - went through two of them.
Also, after going to 380 (378 really...) my LT5 is certainly putting out more heat. I considered Fluiddyne, Ron Davis but had some concern for extra thickness of Ron Davis and ability to pull air through it with fans. As for the Fluidyne, I could not confirm number of cores (one or two). For these reasons, I eventually settled for a Dewitt dual core version. Matter of fact, it's waiting for me at the Westminster WAZOO HQ to be installed. Once I get it installed and face 90 degree plus weather, I will report back my findings.

XfireZ51,

Have you checked your thermostat? Sounds like it may have failed in open position.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

My comments regarding the performance of the Fluidyne dealt w the fact it was actually too good at cooling the motor. During a recent drive in 35F weather, the coolant temp had much difficulty getting above the temp for allowing Closed Loop operation. It worked fine in summer and fall temps. My OE radiator needed to be cleaned and I decided to swap in the Fluidyne for extra cooling w A/C. My wife won't get in the car during the summer unless I run the A/C.
I'm using stock thermo.

If you have an OE 195° thermostat and the engine won't warm enough for closed loop, your thermostat is faulty. It's likely stuck open or is not fully closing.

Originally Posted by Karl

Maybe I was mistaken but I believe sitting in traffic with the.AC on the fluidyne radiator got up to 227 which is marginally better than stock.

I like to use the air conditioner. Combine that with a hot humid summer day in traffic 227 and rising is not where I want to be.

I have a under drive water pump so that does not help.

I went with a champion three core unit. Should be here and in soon.

Also looking at upgrading the cooling fans if need be.

Underdriven water pump...big mistake. The stock pump is already "under driven" at idle and low speeds. That's why most ZR1s at freeway speeds run hotter in sixth gear than they do in fifth.

Do not "upgrade" your fans. Have someone who can calibrate lower the fan-on temps in the "chip". You can increase airflow until the cows come home, but if you don't revise the fan-ons, the car will still tend to run warm because the fans don't come on at a low enough temperature.

When I did Fluidyne's hot weather testing in the Summer in Palm Springs CA, the Fluidyne radiator, combined with a 170° thermostat, lowered antifreeze concentration and lower fan-ons had my ECT 208-212 in congested traffic, A/C on and an OAT of 108°F

[XfireZ51]

The motor would warm up when sitting at idle but would quickly cool down at cruising speeds.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

Underdriven water pump...big mistake. The stock pump is already "under driven" at idle and low speeds. That's why most ZR1s at freeway speeds run hotter in sixth gear than they do in fifth.

Please elaborate more in this.

Thanks.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by Karl

Please elaborate more in this.

Thanks.

Drive your ZR-1 at 65-mph in sixth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Then, drive the car at the same speed in fifth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Chances are the engine will run hotter at 65-mph in sixth and at 65-mph in fifth.

Post your findings.

[Hog]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

Drive your ZR-1 at 65-mph in sixth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Then, drive the car at the same speed in fifth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Chances are the engine will run hotter at 65-mph in sixth and at 65-mph in fifth.

Post your findings.

Another reason for 4.10's gears.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

Drive your ZR-1 at 65-mph in sixth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Then, drive the car at the same speed in fifth gear for 5 miles monitoring ECT.

Chances are the engine will run hotter at 65-mph in sixth and at 65-mph in fifth.

Post your findings.

I have noticed this.

It seems that your original comment implied the under drive water pump is not worth any type of performance gain versus stock. I have always thought a under drive pump will add some power to any engine.

So do you think there is any performance gain, hp wise, with using a under drive water pump?

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

......Do not "upgrade" your fans. Have someone who can calibrate lower the fan-on temps in the "chip". You can increase airflow until the cows come home, but if you don't revise the fan-ons, the car will still tend to run warm because the fans don't come on at a low enough temperature......

Marc sets both fans to come on at ECT of 205 degrees. Mine runs about 190-195 normally to a max of about 208 on the hottest days. --Bob

[Pete]

Karl,5th and 6th gear issue is not the UD pulley, stock pulley has the same issue so lets not freak out here.

The UD pulley slows the pump down if you had cooling issues before Hib is right went the wrong way with the UD pulley.
The UnderDrive pulleys give you more RPM before it goes to bypass,the Road Racing guys like this.

Heck,my Z has no A/C condenser, no oil cooler, 160 T-Stat, fans on at 175*, stock pulley and still have the 5th 6th gear issue.
Like Dom said when she gets moving she cools faster.

The C4 is a bottom feeder sucks up a lot of crap, take radiator out clean it very good,usually you will find a birds nest in there you will be suprised i would suggest either take Dom's radiator and clean it up or buy new cause you don't wanna do the job twice not a fun job.

I have these pulleys on my Z (stock size).
What i like about the pulleys is they are aluminum, half the weight of the OE steel pieces between PS,WP & ALT i saved about 2-3 lbs and they look nicer then the OE pulleys and get them in any common color,even purple.

By the way you will not get her to run below 220* on a 90+* hot n humid Chicago parking lot traffic day, i tried everything this is why i don't have it anymore the ones that say there's stays at 200 or 210 they are talking at speeds not parking lot traffic.

Pete