power key problem

[Kevin]

It turns out my key is working with less frequency then it used to...aka I have to jiggle it from time to time for it to make contact. I checked on the "solutions" thread and it said "well just giggle it" and maybe I missed a post or two but jiggling it isn't the way I want to "fix" this. The thread I clicked on said pull the center stack but it didn't say what to do next. clean the contacts? re-crimp them?

[Paul Workman]

Well...Lemme "axe" ya... Do you ever have the switch in anything but on FULL POWER?

You can replace it with another "used but good" switch, attempt to repair the one you have. However, the issue can permanently and forever more be solved and put it in FULL POWER mode by simply hard wiring a jumper across the two wires leading to the switch.

Before crying "gerry rigger!" at my wire solution, may I say if you are running w/o secondary throttle plates, it is excellent insurance for keeping the secondary injectors from being shut down (by intermittent switch contacts) at the worst possible moment; WOT.

If you would rather have a working switch, PM me and we'll work out something.

P.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I have this on my to do list too. I'm not sure if I will bypass, DIY or send it to Marc Haibeck for $25 to service.

[FU]

Buy my white car. We don't need no steenkin' secondaries.

[-=Jeff=-]

I have taken my 1990 power key cylinder apart to 'adjust' it as mine would not stay in Full power when turned either.. Now it is fine..

easy job to do.. But I would need to take mine apart again to explain step-by-step

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Well...Lemme "axe" ya... Do you ever have the switch in anything but on FULL POWER?

You can replace it with another "used but good" switch, attempt to repair the one you have. However, the issue can permanently and forever more be solved and put it in FULL POWER mode by simply hard wiring a jumper across the two wires leading to the switch.

Before crying "gerry rigger!" at my wire solution, may I say if you are running w/o secondary throttle plates, it is excellent insurance for keeping the secondary injectors from being shut down (by intermittent switch contacts) at the worst possible moment; WOT.

If you would rather have a working switch, PM me and we'll work out something.

P.

there's an off setting? i had no idea

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by FU2

Buy my white car. We don't need no steenkin' secondaries.

seems a bit of an extreme way to fix a problem on another car. but if i had the money, i'd have bought your car years ago

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

I have this on my to do list too. I'm not sure if I will bypass, DIY or send it to Marc Haibeck for $25 to service.

Marc fixes the switches? hum gona have to poke around his site

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Kevin

Marc fixes the switches? hum gona have to poke around his site

Just call or email him as it is not on his website from what I remember. He replied to an email during communication of him burning me a new ship and secondaries came up as well as my sticky switch.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Well...........

Aside from explaining step by step.....did you bend some contact points back into place? Did you have to use a solder gun to build up any worn areas with new solder? Could all parts be mechanically broken down (screws or bent tabs)

All I did was pull the switch apart and fix the contacts. they need to be bent a bit to get the cylinder to work correctly.

As for pulling it apart, not for a while, all I am doing is replacing a couple bad speakers and fixing the ribbing on the Passenger side door panel (drivers is done) and then enjoying the car..

Next week is Bloomington Gold and I am going with the car..