1991 INTL REST light gone crazy

[MickeyD]

Originally Posted by 32valvesftw

Mike, the more I think about your situation, its the sensor on the passenger side. What we were seeing when the light momentarily went out was the system recognizing that the process was done, and the resetting due to the fault. The next step should be cleaning the connections and checking the wiring, then see if there is a code. I'm happy to help f you need.

I think so too. The only thing that weird to me is the code 12, when we try to clear. But also the drivers side has been done. Unless I screwed it up changing the battery this year.

I'm up for anything. Your place, my place, Steve's place. I'm open Mon and Tues. Out of town Wed-Fri afternoon. Open next weekend.

Btw Bill, didn't mean to hijack your thread! Once I learn how to do this, I'll come up and help you or you can come down. Guess I'm gonna be forced to learn how to mechanic if I'm gonna keep these cars.

[MickeyD]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I deleted my post as I have totally different experience regarding clearing Codes.....I have NO Codes on five ZR-1s including a 91' and 95'. Also use my ALDL Code Reader on all of them including the 95' and a standard Corvette (L98). Good Luck Guys

Dynomite thanks for all your help. Your posts helped Don and I a lot yesterday, even though we didn't get it fixed, it was a great reference.

[32valvesftw]

Same here Cliff. No reasons to delete your post. I think your advise was spot on. A code cannot be cleared unless the underlying issue is addressed, in this case the underlying issue still exists.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I deleted my post as I have totally different experience regarding clearing Codes.....I have NO Codes on five ZR-1s including a 91' and 95'. Also use my ALDL Code Reader on all of them including the 95' and a standard Corvette (L98). Good Luck Guys

Well I didn't say a thing about what you call a "CODE READER" - I mentioned to the OP who has a '91 that he needed to read 9J in the FSM and do "FLASH" diagnostics FIRST. Your "CODE READER" is nothing more than a "FLASH" READ DEVICE. I don't believe there's any similarity of the codes '90 to '91 and later.

Your links etc all seem to be directed towards '90 SIR which didn't address "squat" for the OP. AGAIN - "MY THOUGHTS"!!

I mentioned CURRENT and HISTORY retrieval for a '91 and what's required for clearing HISTORY - I don't believe your "CODE READER" can accomplish what's required on '91+ removing HISTORY. If you attempted to READ a '91+ that had been repaired after displaying CURRENT CODES it would likely ALWAYS display a CODE 13 which I believe means there's HISTORY in there.

Anyone with any year needs to familiarize themselves with 9J if they've SIR issues - anyone and any year!

[billschroeder5842]

Originally Posted by MickeyD

Btw Bill, didn't mean to hijack your thread! Once I learn how to do this, I'll come up and help you or you can come down. Guess I'm gonna be forced to learn how to mechanic if I'm gonna keep these cars.

Mike- no hijack made- I really like to learn about the nuances of our cars.Who'd have thought that the 90 and 91 had those differences.

BTW... I did the "Flash" read on my car today. Nothing but "12s".

Poltergeist. I'm convinced of it.

[MickeyD]

Originally Posted by billschroeder5842

Mike- no hijack made- I really like to learn about the nuances of our cars.Who'd have thought that the 90 and 91 had those differences.

BTW... I did the "Flash" read on my car today. Nothing but "12s".

Poltergeist. I'm convinced of it.

Poltergeist, no. I'm convinced it's a virus. When Dave moved his car from between ours in Buffalo your car gave it to mine.

[billschroeder5842]

Well, guilt, paranoia and flashing 12s over came me (coupled with a free day) so I tackled the passenger side SIR module.

While everything was apart, it also gave me an excuse to do some wiping, cleaning, vacuuming (the previous owner must have parked under a pine tree), zip tieing wires, rerouting, painting brackets, scrubbing wheel wells and the finally body panel alignment.

When I finally got to the SIR module, the contacts seem to be "ok" but just barely- there was enough of that white corrosion stuff to notice. I also saw that the mounting was on the frame, just "down hill" enough that it would have been in the flow of water and other chemicals that I would have used when cleaning the engine. As someone mentioned, the water may have caused a short.

I wire brushed the frame mounts, both sides of the module and bolts. I put di-electric grease on the frame and both sides of the module mounts. The PITA of the reassembly was the 10mm bolt on the SIR module as there is limited room and my hand are too big.

I re attached the battery cable, started the car and had zero INFL REST flashes as there was before, so I'm guessing that I "got it."

Thanks everyone for giving me the direction to "get after it!"

[Dynomite]

I just did the Drivers Side on my 1991 today.....much easier than the Passenger side

I also did a couple other ground wires when I was there including my Starter Relay Ground Wire.
Followed up by painting the area and ground connections with Black Rustoleum.

[billschroeder5842]

Dynomite--Driver side is next for me!

So how much easier is the drivers side than the passenger? I'm numb at the moment from the afternoons project or maybe its the second glass of wine. I'm not sure which?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by billschroeder5842

Dynomite--Driver side is next for me!

So how much easier is the drivers side than the passenger? I'm numb at the moment from the afternoons project or maybe its the second glass of wine. I'm not sure which?

Very easy.......especially if you have a 1/4 socket wrench with 3 inch extension and a 13mm and 10mm 1/4 drive socket. You just have to remove battery and battery platform (4 - 10mm bolts/screws). You can see in the photo you have plenty room. On the battery platform one lower 10mm screw is a bit tight but you can get at it with a 10mm flex head ratchet or just a plain 10mm open end box wrench.

The Side Panel with 3 #30 Torx and two 10 mm bolts (the lower 10mm bolt you just loosen a bit in the gap) is easy to remove as well.