Re: Photos
 

If you're a dummy, Like Hansel and Gretel, and Schrade, you better leave a trail of bread crumbs SOMEwhere, so you can find your way home http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

Re: Photos
 

You mean Hansel, Gretel, Schrade, and Dynomite......:sign10:

Your logic is precisely why I started the items in my signature..........so I would not forget the good advice when I found it :D

Thanks for what you are doing especially with the photos :thumbsup:

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Blew through each line of the rail crossover both ways with spray lube and Shop-vac'ed excess (A tip - DON'T Shop-Vac gasoline - the magic smoke will get out of the Shop-Vac (and your lungs too, and electronics and organics don't work no more when the magic smoke gets out http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif ) ) .

Too many more lines to un-hook. Came clean on a paper towel to start...

With only 44 psi static, then if the FPR needs replacing later, how deep do you have to go? Can it be swapped without yanking the plenum?

Even tho' Marc says 44 is good, it's way under FSM spec. Gotta' keep everything in mind here...

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Contamination in the MAP hose if severe enough can cause an inaccurate signal to the ECM. Some guys on here have mentioned finding oil in the MAP hose from the plenum. I cut one of these MAPs open in a previous post and it has a pressure sensitive integrated circuit of some kind that the vacuum acts upon to convert the vacuum reference to an electrical signal.

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Is there a resistance spec check for MAP sensor?

I read about the oil fouling in the hose, but didn't know what to look at in DM readouts...

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

DM only shows kPa for MAP vacuum. No resistance check for MAP. There is a signal voltage check that is related to several codes being set. Look at page 6E3-A-52 and you will find the parameters for the MAP signal. Also shown is a kPa vs. voltage chart. Chart C1-D on page 6E3-C1-21 is the best way to test the MAP but only if you use a scan tool. ...........((((Do not attempt to test the MAP with a hand held pump or you could damage it beyond use as the IC inside is sensitive....))) [-X I understand you didn't show a code but if you wish to check the MAP its a good place to start voltage wise.
When my old MAP went bad I had a hard time keeping the car running until the ECM substituted a MAP value and ran off of the TPS signal. (Limp mode).

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

The second jar of stuff didn't come from the MAP crossover / PCV's.

No such critter as MAP crossover - I meant the crossover that HAS the 2 PCV valves. Is that all that is - is the PCV plumbing? Why 2 PCV's anyway?

////////////////////////////////////////
Injector looms? :rolleyes:

Just a typo there - I meant 'spark plug wire' looms... :mrgreen:


orifices?
Or ori-feces? (they did have a lot of s&*% in 'em)
Maybe orifeceii? (pl)
http://www.lotrplaza.com/images/smil...za/smiley9.gif

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

I just read this most excellent documented thread.

When I got to the end though...... Houston we have a problem!!

Silicone kills O2 sensors. Whether in the fuel system (this instance) or the exhaust system (sealant on gaskets, etc.), or the coolant(coupled with a leaking head gasket or leaking injector housing gasket), silicone gas coats O2 sensors & kills them so they can no longer detect O2.

I always recommend using simple motor oil on fuel system o-rings.

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Cliff; for a 'Top End Resto' thread, this would have to get hacked off @ post 66. Darryl or Dominic would have to do it, and I'm bettin' that would be a pain... :neutral:

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Got it Jerry; thanks!!! The rails are still on the table; I can pull and wipe the INJ rings. Synthetic? Dino? Or 90 weight gear oil?

And do you take PP? I need at least one gasket on the list so far here, if ever we get to re-assembly...

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Do you run 90w gear oil in your engine???:sign10:

Sure, we take PP or CC pick your favorite when you check out from the web store.

Re: 1990 top end restoration
 

You do know there are O-rings inside of the injector housing at the primary injector locations...... A little oil on the finger to lube them before installing injectors will make the installation easier & protect the O-rings from damage. FWIW, the original O-rings are 20+ years old and we now have ethanol in gasoline. You might give some thought about replacing the fuel system O-rings while you are at this juncture.

Re: 1990 top end restoration
 

Yep.. ..do what Jerry says as well as prolly check that Cylinder Case Vent Cover Gasket

Do not open up that Cylinder Vent Cover and drop something in that area ;)

You prolly need an "O" ring pick to get those "O" rings out of the Injector Housing Primary Injector ports.
http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/pr...49001595_1.jpg

I am prolly the only one that replaces the secondary Linkages with NEW Linkages (a relatively inexpensive improvement).
The little secondary ball joints fit into plastic sockets on the linkage and with age those ball joint plastic sockets get sloppy.

There is a lot of little things I do under the Plenum since I am there.
I do not want to have to think of going their again (but I do go there again) :D

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...10122105-N.jpg

Secondary Linkage

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

By request. I split the threads. GC :cheers:

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Yep...... that's where it goes. You will also need to remove the Secondary Port Throttle Linkage Shields and the linkage itself to get the CC Vent Cover out. I suggest you tighten the bolts (13ea, 8mm hex) first and clean all around it first so none of the gunk & grit around it falls in when the Cover is removed. Once it's off, virtually a straight shot down into the crank case.

It's no big step to go ahead & remove the injector housings while you are this deep. The bolts typically get loose over time and the gaskets may be in sad shape. A lot easier to access the Primary Fuel Injector Lower Seals with the housings on the bench.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Stainless bolts. Just saying you need em.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Welcome to the oil breather box yep its under all that crap...... Jerry's right in for a penny in for a pound pull the IH housings while you are in there

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Clean out the v galley hole underneath the starter. The drains out the back side of the transmission via a drain tube

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

And said this before....I do not give up ;)
Since you have the starter out, take the screws out of the end of the starter solenoid and polish up the contacts.

I had a NO START condition on a 90' and after I towed it for a start....got home and it fired right up. If the solenoid does not move (no clicking indicating the Starter Solenoid did not move) as in my case then a sticky Solenoid or Solenoid Ground Connection. If the Solenoid clicked/moved...then bad Solenoid contacts or bad connection Battery cable (Positive) to starter/battery or bad ground (Negative) engine to battery.

Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...1f498e4d50.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...9e22f85e0a.jpg

The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...57c17fc6a2.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...a552901435.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Stuff paper towel in those ports ASAP.....;)
Actually you did cover with duct tape.....:D
I stuff paper towel first just in case the duct tape gets moved.

Actually I use that Blue Tape painters use to mask off windows and stuff......it comes off clean.

Are you going to remove those cam covers :p

I should just shut up and watch :sign10:

You got a helper...I can tell....someone else is taking those photos :D

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Your a Wildman Shade.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Nope - no helper here Cliff - got one of the cams on a tripod http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...2&postcount=95

But do feel free to do a road trip...

Yup - ever since I hatched.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I concur :handshak:
Wildman Shade is setting NEW STANDARDS :thumbsup:

That moniker Shade may stick ;)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

And breaking new ground. He has inspired me to attempt changing my own oil.:cheers:

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

What I do for hoses that refuse removal is take my special tool (single edge razer blade) and cut hose length wise over the connector and then using a flat screw driver lift the cut edges (same on coolant hoses). Since I am installing new hoses anyway ;)

Get a couple of these also from Jerry.........Grommet PCV Valve

Do NOT jimmy the surface of the Injector Housing......You could just take a single edge razer blade and cut off flush and then pull it out from the center.....

http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...14078872-N.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

That scares me. I'm countin' on lotsa' help re-assembly here; LT1 was cake compared to this - did the same thing on CF before gettin' banned (for something else).

I slow down, bolts back in empty holes, post up, write stuff out as you go, helps to remember sequences...

IH cleanup begins (FIRST SIDE - might be ready for BG in the spring, WITH the Z, instead of my little Nissan sewing machine :rolleyes: ) .

Oil the bolts, run 'em in and out a few times, clean threads with a toothbrush as you go

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382149145

Label bolts config

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382149225

ready for a bath

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382149422

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I left my grommet in and just undid the hose clamp and pulled the tube out. BTW, I have had the lid off my LT5 3 or 4 times and it only takes about 3-4 months for it to become filthy again. The C4 vette sucks up more garbage up its nose than a coke addict. Nature of the beast I guess. Good thing you are taking pics because that's the only way the clean will last.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Schrade, that grommet(s) may have been installed previously with some RTV and could be why it doesn't budge. Some folks do that to assure no leaks but it makes it a little tougher to remove too.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Just road dirt and dust-gets all in the valley of the engine in no time. Been there done that I washed my parts in the dishwasher to help clean out the metal shavings after porting.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...k/DSC03675.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Now THAT looks clean. Can I mail' ya' mine? :mrgreen:




OK - going back re-reading stuff...
Damn if I didn't forget about the primary O's in the IH. Probably blew them out at the car wash (afraid to look now)...

And note to self (thanks again on this one)
Usually DO do cleaning before & after breakdown for this reason - another good tip there http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

My 90' and 91' valleys stay pretty clean. I worry more about mice in the valley setting up housekeeping. I use Bounce to disappoint them in that regard :D

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Don't forget to send me your coolant pipes after you paint or PC so you can have them engraved like the billet throttle plate. Makes a great balanced looking engine ;)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Not on my regular computer so can't post a pic but I bet one of my previous customer can post a pic of their coolant pipes for you.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...HCoolant-1.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...BCoolant-1.jpg

This is Carter engraving on silver. On red I have no clue what color you could fill the engraving or how the chevy symbol would appear.
There must be some color combination that would appear compatible with your red/orange color.

You prolly want to wire wheel brush the ends of those coolant manifolds where the coolant hoses fit so they are not clamped onto paint.

You can see I have TB coolant eliminated but I promised GC I would not mention modifications in this thread to over complicate your restoration :D
So forget I said that ;)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...b1ba5026d5.jpg

An Example of Black engraving on red....
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z.../234SGC415.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Any thoughts on the moth in #3???

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...&postcount=106

If he dies in there, I can pull #3 plug, put the Shop-Vac on the spark plug port, and pull his dry carcass out, BUT I GOTTA' SEE HIM!!!

What if I don't get his *** outta' there?

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I'm wondering if you can blow him back out with air in spark plug hole or vac on intake port with spark plug removed to create air flow if valve is open.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

That moth will be nice and squishy and won't hurt a single thing in your engine. he will get stuck in the catalyst, but will turn to ash quickly.

As far as the residue inside the I/H...forget about over cleaning that- that is a passage for the crankcase ventilation and is full of oil mist 100% of the time. Dirty oil will be all over it the first time you drive it.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Schrade, see if you can reduce the shop vac nozzle to a small hose to get the critter out of the intake port. So far lookin' good.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I vote for starter.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Get the INJ looms back.

CC hoses off - they rotated as soon as the clamps were loose:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382234708

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382234840

Clamps in the drink. ................... Shaken...................... not stirred ........... http://www.rocketryforum.com/images/smilies/yawn.gif

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382235035
Hoses marked P + D, scrubbed, Trans-X. Ready to bag.

Fished, and out to dry.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382235233

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382235233