Re: Engine Ticking
 

Hmmm..... Cliff, I'm scratchin' my head, trying to think of why drilling/tapping the TB passages would require removing the coolant tubes (mounted on each side of the motor). I don't believe I did, but I've slept since then and may have forgotten.:o I did mask off the rest of the holes in the IH, of course, and was careful of filings, but a tiny filing or two in the coolant jacket would be no big deal, no?

Re: Engine Ticking
 

OK, so I checked resistance of wire pairs, no differences there, all around 20k Ohms. Tested spark on #6 and #1, no spark on 6, spark on 1- but it might be weak. I'm not quite sure. The engine didn't seem to run too much worse without #1 firing.

Good points about blocking the coolant. I'm still trying to decide on that and porting. I don't want to get to far along a path if coils and wires aren't my problem. My parts came in from Jerry's Gaskets today, so I'm starting the teardown.

Re: Engine Ticking
 

Because. :D






It is just easier to stuff a paper towel in the injector housing which collects all aluminum from drilling and tapping for 1/8 NPT aluminum allen head Pipe plug.

Those coolant manifold bolts being stuck in manifolds along shank and in injectore housing threads is an issue with many LT5s as you know. So what a better time to install new coolant manifold gaskets and SS Allen Head bolts in coolant Manifolds when you remove Plenum.

Re: Engine Ticking
 

Well, I've got it off. Have a few broken vacuum lines: the connectors on both the driver and passenger side plenum, and the coiled one that goes to the front underside of the plenum. Does anyone have any idea where I can get these?

The old wires all seem to read about 5k ohms, whereas the new ones are all between .4 and .9 k ohms. The old coils are about 7.5k ohms and the new are about 5.2k ohms. Nothing really points to #6 being any different than the other cylinders.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=2836

Re: Engine Ticking
 

I broke one of my hard lines, but I spliced it with some German style vacuum hose. This is the thick hose with the exterior braid layer- it is way more durable than parts store vacuum hose. You can get various similar hard tubes and rubber elbows from the junkyard and fit them into place as needed. the big curly one is probably better off replaced with a genuine LT5 part, or get creative with the repair.

Re: Engine Ticking
 

Thanks, I'll look for that. I found the curly line, and I decided to pull the secondaries as I found the passenger side was binding, so I don't need that drivers side line. I'll just try to find a fitting that looks close to stock for the passenger side plenum and replace the line with what you suggested.

Re: Engine Ticking
 

I just wanted to post a follow up. The car is all back together and runs great. Actually it runs better than it ever has- a lot faster too. The secondaries are eliminated as well as the TB coolant.

Big thanks to Locobob, he did an awesome job with the porting and refinishing. Also thanks to Jerry and Marc for their support to the community, I couldn't have done this without them. Last, thanks to the rest of you, I spent a lot of time in the threads making sure I did things right.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=2889

Engine Ticking or not Ticking....that is the question
 

Very nice top end :thumbsup:
........so.......what was the engine ticking? ;)

Re: Engine Ticking
 

Ahh yes, it was a coil causing the misfire, which was causing the flywheel to rattle.

Re: Engine Ticking
 

Just to give you a heads up, There was a group of us that did a lot of work last year on a Dark Green 95 in Michigan. New GM coil packs, wires and plugs were installed, Cylinder 3 was dead, Cylinder 2 was firing.
I know it is a pain in the can, I would start with the coil packs.

Does your car have the rev limiter set at 7200 RPM?