Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I can machine the coolant pipes as you have them marked but NOT the air horn. I have tried one with bad results. The coolant pipes would look great with my engraving done with my design and painted all black including the Bowie.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Yellow and black will be fine.....

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I would know 'NOTHING... NOTHING' about mods :)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

What are mods???? :)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Starter. Another BEAR. Especially when you try to TIGHTEN, and not LOOSEN one of the bolts - dumbace :redface:

Double box wrench. Couldn't do diddly with torque wrench / 1/2" - 3/8" drive adapter / 8" ext / u-joint / 13mm - probably didn't have enough pieces in the :dontknow:sequence .

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382392230

Separation

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382392363

into the drink for a brush-off, then set to dry + Shop-Vac excess solvent.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382392497

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Deleted thumbnails. ;)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Yep, I agree with Dyno. I think glycol anti freeze + heat will eat away at the paint over time. Its best to have the hoses clamped on to metal instead of paint in my opinion. You could try it and see but no warranties. They sure are purdy though. :)

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I agree with Franke the pipes should not be painted where the hose clamps go.....Powder Coat OK but not paint. Then I would use a thin coat of Permatex inside the hose before I slip them on the pipes. Clamps as close to the raised ring on the end of the pipe as possible. Leave the paint on the portion of pipe up to where the clamp would be on the pipe.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Now do not move that AC compressor around too much without tying down the hose ends going into the Evaporator. You do NOT want any bending on those pipes going into the Evaporator or they could break like mine did :p

Oh.....on the painted pipes....I mean to say I would not have the hose clamp over a painted pipe.....Leave the paint on the portion of pipe up to where the clamp would be on the pipe. You can see with the SAMCO hose clamps being right next to the raised portion of the pipe.

Now on another point.....SAMCO Silicon hoses are more elastic and flexible with temperature than rubber hoses and I have had SAMCO hoses slip on me especially with Permatex on the pipe/inside the hose. I still use a bit of Permatex but am careful where I place the Hose Clamp.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...823f5fb378.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

What is Permatex? I know the brand name, but which of their products are you referring to, for the coolant pipe-to-hose connection seals ?

I've always slipped hoses back on with silicone fluid, or Trans-X ...

(story about Trans-X - I had a 60k '89 T-Bird auto, bought for a song in '93, with Ford TSB tech service bulletin for the auto valve body seals, that made it skip second gear (I didn't know about it). AAMCO said $1k to rebuild. A FORD shop tech told me the known issue, said (quietly) put in a bottle of Trans-X. I did. In 4 - 5 shift cycles, first drive, it shifted PERFECT. Trans-X does wonders on latex.......... )

Permatex Super 300
 

You just had to ask :D

I use this Permatex Super 300......seems to work great for me ;)

Oh...yes.....it is not so easy to remove my Permatex Super 300 gaskets (I use single edge razer blade) but having said that....it is hard to imagine a gasket that is not sticking upon removal also sticking enough to do its job......if that makes any sense :p

I have NO leaks on ZR1 (LT5s), Corvette (L98s), Toyota Trucks, John Deer Tractors......:sign10:

I use Permatex Super 300 on gaskets such as oil pan, Injector Housing Gasket to Head, and water pump gasket (including thermostat gaskets or in our case thermostat mating surfaces) where oil or coolant is involved. I also use a bit of this Permatex on coolant pipes by lightly coating the inside of the hoses before I slip them on the coolant pipes. I also use Permatex Super 300 on oil pan drain plug metal gaskets and oil pan drain plug threads. I do not use Permatex on Head Gaskets, Plenum Gaskets, or Cam Covers.

On gaskets, I coat each side of the gasket lightly (very lightly) with Permatex Super 300 and then let it sit until the Permatex gets tacky such that the gasket will stick in place (helps keep gaskets in place while placing water pump or oil pan for example).

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...psaf26fa81.jpg

Permatex Super 300 is a non-hardening sealant designed to resist heat transfer fluids such as oil or antifreeze. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists antifreeze, aviation fuels, aggressive detergent bearing oils and lubricants - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....cpTjeJ8R.dpuf

There....admitted it....let the debate begin......:D
This is one of those personal preference things where there are many opinions.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I gotta' check MSDS for chemical makeup...

I've heard of NON-hardening RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanizing, but it's absolutely a mess at dis-connect time.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
alright - re-read for edit.................

Hose Clamps
 

If you use SAMCO Hose Clamps for example you can use an 8mm socket and 1/4 inch socket wrench with two 1/4 inch universal joints with a short and long extension. The screw on the SAMCO hose clamp is 8mm. You can set the hose clamps such that they can easily be reached with the 1/4 socket combination....even the Water pump hose connection on the thermostat housing from the passenger side frame rail.

I like the SAMCO Hose Clamps because they do not bite into any kind of coolant hose you might use. And......using an 8mm socket rather than a long screw driver with no universal joint gives you all kinds of options in those tight areas for tightening the various hose clamps.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...823f5fb378.jpg

Be very careful moving the AC compressor around with hoses attached to the Evaporator :sign10:

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I like the idea of the red. Go for it!!!

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Do you still want the thumbnails?

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Marc has some nice BLACK coolant hoses that would look good with red coolant crossover and red Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds......

I used Marc's BLACK coolant hoses on my 90' with SAMCO Hose Clamps.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...d107332bc7.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

No - sure don't there Dominic; I thought maybe you'd written a VBS / batch script to wipe them from my posts.

I'm not loading to 3rd party host, but if you want me to, no problem...

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Just post links in main body of post. No need to upload attachments.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Where does this line 'sit'?

I'm not asking TO what - it's a TB extension vac line; if I swing it down, under the A/C connector, behind the alternator, it's pointing UP.

Just cant find where it 'lays' right...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...0/HPIM7318.JPG



Is this correct? Or had I already moved the vac line at this point?

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382137407

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Goes to Charcoal canister Control Valve from under front of plenum.
I think I ran it behind the AC.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...502103894c.jpg

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Hi Schrade. See post # 18 on your page 2 . Also #37 and 41 It might help.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Got it; thanks...

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Dry fit.

No gaskets, lube, fuel (or rails), and just few bolts. Injector assemblies are sterile as far as I'm concerned too - no need to ding up the tips. Looking for assembly sequence SNAFU's, make a gasket/etc., need list.

No problems, except for a few vacuum line over/unders...

Paint is Red (like SP wires). Cam flash gives that ugly pumpkin glow.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...0/HPIM7321.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/HPIM7322.JPG

Found a wire brush perfect size for the IH ports, to get out the remaining carbon on final assembly.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

This was the end of cleanup.

30lb monofilament quadrupled. Left it in the air overnight, 1/2 " over the bag. Then covered the engine, and cleaned the compressor underside.

lashed at the top of 2 x 4, not the brake fluid reservoir...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...0/HPIM7281.JPG

Afterward...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...0/HPIM7284.JPG

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

A/C, alternator anchored, then the starter (nothing under it).

Dielectric grease on:

solenoid connector:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/HPIM7309.JPG

between EACH of the 5 grounding strap rings at the Coil Pac mounting grid D side corner:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q.../HPIM7310c.JPG

and while we're in the neighborhood, each of the 3 ground strap rings on the back on the P side head, after wipedown:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/HPIM7315.JPG

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Then grease on Coil Pac mount grid prongs, and grid sockets:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/HPIM7312.JPG

and the Coil Pac wire studs:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z.../HPIM7313c.JPG

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Very nice pics and documentation! R&R'ing the underside of the plenum, and especially paying attention to the electrical connections too, is so important to heading future trouble off at the pass. Judging by the "hits", it is a very popular thread. Congratz!

Worth mentioning? When you say "DIS", I believe you're referring to the coil packs and their grid mount. The DIS module is not to be confused with the coil packs, in that the DIS (mounted to the underside of the plenum) too has a critical, critical(!) thin and absolutely dirt free film of (white zinc oxide type) heat-sink grease that should not be confused with the dielectric grease shown in the pictures. The life expectancy of the DIS depends on it...Just sayin.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Thanks there Sir...

Yep - Coil Pacs; I keep saying DIS... :o

I don't know much

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Your doing pretty damn good for a guy that don't know much !

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Looking squeaky clean :cheers:

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

Still thinking about this here Mike, as cause of hesitation...

Vacuum to tranny COULD interfere with FPR's response to vacuum - right?

BUT...

There's no vacuum connections to the tranny (that I know of) - it's got a dedicated electronic controller. Even the hammer down downshift is electronic.

Besides - the 'hesitation' was noticeable in, or OUT of gear...

Thoughts?????????????????????????????

Re: Throttle hesitation diagnostics?
 

The reason I mention it is because when I used to have an auto car and ran a double pumper holley carb, the secondary opening always introduced too much air without the fuel flow (weak vacuum signal and a large plenum). getting the accelerator pump to squirt more gas sooner covered up the hesitation.

your calibration in software assumes the stock flywheel weight and maybe less drag right off idle. basically the light load fueling table and enrichment part could use some more fuel to see if it helps. Just thinking out loud, but this happens all the time with big carbs on automatic hot rods. You converting to automatic made me think of this. Also I have a friend who put a cam etc in a TPI car (auto) and has the same problem. this is also a speed-density car so I'm guessing enrichment is needed.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

If you could add a 5V reference signal, you should measure how smoothly the TPS outputs varying voltage as you move the throttle. If you see jumps in the voltage, then the TPS has worn spots which will cause inconsistent fuel/spark.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Yep, I agree. It would be better to measure the TPS voltage as it is varied instead of calculating resistance. You would then get an operational view of the output of the TPS. You can use a computer power supply for a 5 volt signal voltage if you have one laying around.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I did operational voltage in the TPS thread. Smooth, uninterrupted, linear voltage increase...

Not satisfied tho'...

But now a hardware problem...

One of the secondary butterfly screw heads sheared off of the butterfly shaft. TB inside and out is clean as a whistle, but now this...

Can low - profile nut/bolt sets be purchased for the shaft?

And, the irony / Carma of the DAG question; I've tarnished the finish in the rearward part of the P side bore. Snappics shortly here... :confused:

At worst, new (or rebuilt) TB. At best, lose a few CFM with different screws in the shaft???????????????

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Schrade; I have the screws and secondary throttle plates I recently removed from my 91.

If you need some shoot me a PM with your address.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

PM en route there BF...

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

I don't think so Schrade as I had 5 holes in mine and didn't experience hesitation. If I remember correctly that bottom hose goes to the IH to pull crankcase vapors.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

Schrade, I have a suggestion for ya. It may be better if you had a small insert inside that rubber pipe as it tends to get soft from the oil fumes and heat in back of the plenum. That way it won't collapse. I built a new pipe from soft copper and fittings and used it before I bought an original pipe from Jerrys. IMO that GM design was cheap and dirty.

Re: TOP END REFINISHING
 

So set the P side IH.

Blot the head surface with a paper towel:

clean (Jerry said DRY, no thin grease film, as I'm accustomed)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...0/HPIM7360.JPG

Set the gasket; make sure they're aligned with a Phillips head (WTH is Phillips anyway? )

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...0/HPIM7362.JPG