Re: My clutch issue
 

mgvrb8 I have the same setup as you Fidanza/stock preasure plate but the difference is I have a Centerforce sprung disk. I went to Fastenal and got 7/16-20 X 1.25 long for the crank shaft and 3/8-16 X 2.125 long all grade 8 preasure bolts and have had no problems at all. I used the green locktite for the crank shaft bolts.

Correction...
 

By way of our brother Hammer, a suggestion from brother Marc H (?) is that the bolts that come w/ the Fidanza FW are short by 1/4". If memory serves, the bolts holding the FW to the crankshaft are:

GRADE 8, 7/16" x 20 x 1-1/4" instead of the 1" ones that come w/ the FW.

Some kind of LockTite would be in order as well, I'm sure

_____________

Correction:

Don't be lead astray... Contrary to some (Summit)** information, :blahblah: the Center Force #CTF-384100 does not have a sprung hub; rather it is intended as the direct replacement for the stock ZR-1 disc using the dual mass FW and PP. (Guess how I know this??:mad:)

As mentioned later in this thread, the correct disc for the Fidanza Al FW and the stock ZR-1 pressure plate is the CTF-381039. (Note: the (Summit) CTF-381039 description indicates the disc as a replacement for the stock disc used in the 93-97 Camaro and Firebird with the LT1 (as mentioned by Dom.)


**PS: I wrote Summit a letter detailing the error in their description, and they may have corrected it by now.

P.

Re: FW bolts
 

GRADE 8, 7/16" x 20 x 1-1/4"

Locktite red is recommended in the FSM.

I will report back when the Carolina Clutch disc is installed. I'm using the fluted bronze pilot bushing.

Re: FW bolts
 

7/16" (check!)

Red LockTite (check!)

Roller bearing pilot bushing (check!)....

Thanks for the edit;), my friend. Think things are shaping up...including the weather!

Dayam....Is it SPRING YET?????


p.

Re: My clutch issue
 

I'm using the fluted bronze pilot bushing now. Jeffvette insisted.

Re: My clutch issue
 

Hot-rodding is like walking in strange, deep dark woods - filled with all manners of hazards to be encountered. Thank goodness a few have gone before and left notes along the way; notes like, "Beware of quicksand!!" ;)

If I had all this 500 hp package to do all over again, I would still do it, but I would have done a few things differently! (and not had so much quicksand in my underwear either!:rolleyes:).

And, thanks for the notes along the way, buddy!

P.

Re: My clutch issue
 

I would suggest getting the longest bolts possible that hold the trans to the bell housing and cut the heads off and use them as guide studs to keep from destroying the throwout bearing during installation even with a transmission jack. and.... just when you need that extra 1/2" to 3/4" to close the gap to feed the input shaft into the "fluted bronze bushing, have a buddy push in on the clutch while pushing & jiggling it. Resist the temptation to use a bolt to force it on.

Also make sure there is not a major burr scratched out of the soft aluminum bell housing (in front & top of slave cylinder cavity) from too much weight being placed on the clutch fork during the first trans. R&R as that is what caused Rick's problems with a broken throwout bearing and bent slave cylinder shaft.

Lee

Re: My clutch issue
 

We used the front c-beam bolts as alignment tools. They worked fantastic.