The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

While changing my fuel injectors, I also changed my spark plugs. The #8 plug is in a difficult spot to say the least. Here's how I changed mine. First, I used a spark plug socket (with rubber holder inside) with a 3" 3/8 extension bar. Work it into #8 hole, the end of the extension should be visible. Attach a 3/8 universal joint, then another 3/8 extension bar (I used a 12"), and a socket wrench to the end of that. Should look like this
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1646
Loosen the spark plug until it is free. Now take apart everything up to the 3" extension bar. It won't come out with the spark plug attached so, pull the 3/8 extension out alittle bit (you might need needle nose to do this)and grab it with a pair of channel locks. With a screw driver push the socket down, while pulling up with channels, and separate the socket from the extension.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1647
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1649
Now to get the socket out. I took apart one of those telescoping mirrors with magnet, by unscrewing the magnet.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1650
Tape the magnet onto a piece of wire. Make sure you wrap it tight, you don't want to lose your magnet down there. I used electrical tape and put a couple wraps around the bottom for good measure. Don't worry it works through the tape. I tested it on a heavy socket to be sure.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1651
Fish the socket out of the hole.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1652

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Get your new spark plug ready. This is what the assembly looks like together.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1654
First, drop the new plug down the hole. Then work the 3" extension bar into the socket, attach the universal, and hand start the new plug. Attach the 12" extension bar with a torque wrench on the end. Tighten 19 ft/lbs (according the LT-5 supplement manual).
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1655
Once it's tight, gently turn the wrench CCW to help loosen the socket from the plug, don't loosen the plug from the block. Disassemble the socket and long extension. Now work the rest of the assembly free of the plug. Once it's free, take off the universal joint and remove 3" extension and socket. Your done, easy right:-D.
P.S. Thanks again Dynomite for resizing tip.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

It's amusing to see that we all come up with just about the same approach to doing #8. I used the same setup but lowered one piece at a time attaching the next while holding the first etc. Once loosened I just reversed the operation. When inserting the new plug I tape it to the socket and lower it in attaching the extensions one at a time while lowering it in.
After a while you develop a muscle memory and can do it by feel and can keep your eyes shut.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

I have a 15 degree wobble (1 inch extension), a cut-off Taiwanese 5/8 spark plug socket and a magnet. I can also work it with a standard full length socket with the right combination of parts.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7051/specialtool.jpg

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Funny, I think I was too proud to look up a tip on this subject and came up with a similar solution that worked for me.

I used fishing string around the 3" extenstion's shaft to pull it out after the spark plug was unscrewed completely. also used the universal upstream of the 3" and the longer extension as you did. I then separated the 3" extension and the socket and left the socket inside the hole, along with the sparkplug which was in the rubber insert.

I was then able to use the head of a 10 penny nail to hook the socket from inside the square hole and grab it with my fingers as it got high enough to do so...at least I think that's how I remember doing it.:cheers:

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Fishing line!? Cut down Taiwanese sockets, 10-penny nails, screw drivers, pliers, dropping the plug in then fishing for it, magnets, electrical tape....

Guys...your killin' me here. :)

It's easy to get that plug in and out. You need the following commonly-available 3/8-drive tools:

1) spark plug socket with integral u-joint.
2) one-inch extension
3) u-joint
4) 12 or 18-in extension
5) ratchet or torque wrench

Put it all together then take the plug out. No muss. No fuss.
Takes a few seconds.

I've been using those tools to change #8 since I bought the car in '95.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1659
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1660
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1661
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1662
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1663

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

Sorry. As you can tell, I don't do code. I tried to use the site's image insert feature. Maybe it didn't work right.
If there's a problem with the images, I don't understand what it is. I clicked on the links and I see the images so I assumed everyone else can see them.

As for the flex ratchet, that was just what I had sitting on the bench out in the shop when I went to take the photos. Actually, when I'm doing it for real, I use a short ratchet. That way there's no chance to over tighten plugs. The 93-95 head has tapered plug seats so you don't need to use a lot of torque and, yeah, I should use a torque wrench, but...I'm lazy and, at this point in life, I have a good feel for tightening things.

And...just in case anyone's interested, I have Denso IT-22s in that engine.

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

Hib
lots of mumbo jumbo about so-called "code" can be made simple about posting a pic.
Go to your pic here on the forum and look a the field under it
called "BB code". Just copy and paste that code into your text where you want the pic to be. All done.

I agree with your assessment of over complicating the deal with #8
The fewer the pieces used the better feel you have for torque I say.
I use even fewer tools than you by one. I put the ratchet directly on
the extension, no elbow at all.
That is, one plug scocket (w/tape to secure it because i don't trust the socket rubber piece), one 1" extension, one 3" extension, one ratchet.
Insert one at a time and hold it while attaching the next part.
On removal I might put a short pipe on the end of the ratchet.

I too have a pretty good feel for torque on plugs. Occasionally I'll pull out a torque wrench to verify my "feel" :)
I'm usually within 2lb on anything <20lb.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Yewowza!

I'm with Hib too on tnis one. 3/8" drive plug scocket with intergal swivel, (I use just a 2-1/2" extension) and the ratchet goes down directly on the end of the extension. Break the torque amd it screws out by hand. Installation in reverse._

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

No it can't.
That's why you need to buy an iPhone 5.

Well...also because we Apple stockholders can continue to enjoy our standard-of-living if you do.
:)

As for my #8 tool, the reason why I used two u-joints was to eliminate what "Scottfab" has to do...hold the parts in place as he connects the next piece. I came up with that the first time I changed plugs on the engine, shortly after I bought the car.

All I do is pull out the plug boot then drop the socket on the end in the hole, attach my ratchet and take out the plug. Actually, I use that tool on one other hole mainly because other parts prevent a straight shot down the plug hole. For the other six plugs I do it Chrysler Hemi style...a 20-in extension with a plug socket on one end and a T-handle on the other. In days past I crewed on a Top Fuel car once in a while and they had these T-wrench/socket contraptions used to spin the plugs in and out which were so easy to use. The handles were short so no one could overtorque a plug.

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

Ahhh, come-on "Scottfab"--you know I'm just a content guy. Is that "code" as in "Morse Code" or "ECM code"?

Let me make sure I understand...
;)
...you can usually get with in 2-ft/lbs. when the spec is less then 20-ft/lbs but--you have to put a pipe on the end of a ratchet to break the plugs loose.

What am I missing?

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

When plugs sit unmolested for 5yrs they can bind up a bit.
I use anti-seize but VERY sparingly.
I'd rather they be a bit tight than get too much and have the
cats suffer.
yah, and also #8 is in a location that's hard to get muscle onto.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

I just remove the engine to change the plugs.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

:dancing

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Much ado about nothing..is in the eye of the be-holder of the right tools, for sure.

I think the basic issue as the OP point alludes to is that many jobs go easier when you have the right tools, but when you do not, you have to make do.

I'm thinking of all the jobs that the factory does without a sweat that we have complicated processes for...Timing the cams comes to mind. I couldn't tell you how THEY do it, but it probably doesn't involve a piston stop, dial gauge or other special tools I have to plug into the crank etc or cam... Well, you get the point.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

There are four (five?) seven MM screws and two plugs on the cover inboard of the A/C evaporator. Just remove them and you will have enough room to not only remove the #8 plug, but the whole cam cover. Takes me five minutes to remove. You guys have fun with your funky ratchets and extensions, I will remove the access cover.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Ah! You must have had an LT1 car at some time!! I swear...sometimes I'd like to find the person(s) that make chit so hard to get and give 'em $10 worth of nickle-sized knots n bruises!!:mad:

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

It DOES look easier than LT1 #8??? I crawled over top of the motor from the driver's side, to lock it in...

A laser guided smart wrench couldn't do it any better.

If you ever did plugs on a GM transverse 3.4, you have to ROLL it forward, and brace it, for the back 3.

And GMC S vehicle 4.3 #3 ain't a picnic either - smoke & mirrors, seance, etc. WITHstanding............

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Agree w Hib on this. I use a 5/8" deep with 3 U joints attached. That snakes it into the plug well. Then a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Once loosened, I can finger turn plug. Once undone, put a telescoping magnet and pull plug out.
To install, I can put plug into rubber hose to screw it in, then reverse the removal process for final torquing. BTW, I use a thin film of oil on the thread to eliminate seizing of plug.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

HAHAH awesome techniques guys ... this thread will come in handy when I attempt my first #8 plug swap. Thanks for the pics and instructions :) ---

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Looks like the plug socket with the attached swivel, + short extension + another swivel on that...is pretty popular. Interesting how so many came up independantly with a similar solution.

I guess I can still remember changing plugs on my 95 LT1 Vette. Next to that, plugs on the LT5 are child's play! (I once had to jack up the front end on jack stands and get to the #8 from underneith; a real PIA!!)

P.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Try changing plugs on a 93-02 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) with 1/3 of teh enginbe under the cowl. Y-body guys have it easy on comparison.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Paul,

Slant plug heads made it a bit easier on the SBC.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

i've never considered #8 that hard to change

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Yeah, I haven't either.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Exactly. Not much of a challenge really. It's kinda like getting the POS air cleaner screws back in.
10% effort and 90% technique.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

That's too many angles for me. I take the plug socket plus 2 each 3/8 universals and put small stipps of duct tape to keep them together. Then I use a 3/8 to a 1/4 stepdown and use my 1/4 rachet to install and torque, that's straight in. No harder then the rest. With the universals and the stepdown I can install the plug by hand until ready to tighten.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Curious about the 1/2-drive breaker bar:confused:

Seems an awful big too for spark plugs. How much do you tighten those suckers when you put 'em in?

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Ummmm.... Mebby so, but I can change all 8 on the LT5 before I could barely get a friggin socket on #8 on my LT1. I don't recall if they were angled or not - I wanna say NOT. But, I've slept since then...;)

P.