Rebuilding the LT5 Belt Tensioner Using Guts from L98 Tensioner
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We all know our belt tensioner is rarer than a supermodel at a buffet. The GM/ACDelco part has been discontinued as have all aftermarket variants, including the one by Dayco. I had previously verified with Dayco that the L98 tensioners have the same internals as our LT5 tensioner but Dayco has since discontinued the L98 tensioner as well. You can however find an L98 tensioner in the aftermarket world and you can use the internals to rebuild the one for your LT5. FYI, Dayco still (01/24/25) makes the LT5 pulley, Dayco #89003.
Photos of OEM LT5 Tensioner, GM # 10067479 Available Parts as of 01/24/25: L98 1988-1991 Belt Tensioner, Zip Corvette # FB-449 L98 1988-1991 Belt Tensioner, Ecklers # EK-25-112206-1 L98 1988-1991 Belt Tensioner, DRIVESTAR 10055897 I wanted to make sure to use basic tools with this rebuild so the average person could do it themselves at home. Please see the graphics I made showing the parts Disassembly of the L98 unit w/ plastic cover is fairly straightforward: 1) The black plastic cover just pries off with a screwdriver, do so carefully, making sure to distribute force from one side to the other. (as a safety precaution I wired the unit together before prying, unsure of what would happen once the plastic cover was removed; I was pleased to find it wasn't as difficult as I thought and the wire wasn't really necessary). 2) Once the plastic cover is off, remove all the components except for the heavy duty spring and set aside in order. Then, use a chain wrench (or strong strap wrench will work) to take the tension off the spring stop. 3) Once the tension was off the spring stop, I used the wood handle of my hammer and gently tapped the spring assembly back so the stop would not make contact anymore and I could unload the spring tension. 4) Once the spring is unloaded you can remove the spring from the housing; I did this by tapping the exposed part of the spring with a hammer while also putting a screwdriver through the small hole on the backside to tap the spring. Disassembly of the LT5 unit is only different as the cover is aluminum and tighter: 5) I used a puller with a 1/4 socket (or one a little smaller than the center pin) to press against the center pin. If you use a two jaw puller, make sure the jaws fit in the grooves. (you should be able to rent a puller from an auto parts store or buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight and grind the jaws to fit in the groves). 6) Repeat steps (2), (3), and (4) with the LT5 tensioner Assembly 7) Replace all of the old, internal components with the new L98 ones but re-use the LT5 aluminum cover.. When you install the new spring, use a large pair of pliers or something of the sort to compress the spring slightly to get it into the housing, it doesn't take much. I also held the spring vertically to keep the Teflon tape from falling out. David Hetrick (edited by ZBrink for added clarity) |
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Nice project well done :cheers:
Any thoughts of doing a run of these? Im sure they would sell quick. I would be in for a spare |
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I don't have any used ones to rebuild, and you cant find them. BTW here is the link to the cheapest Dayco L98 tensioner I could find.
Dave (01/24/25 - Part has been discontinued; ZBrink) |
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I have a used one I need to rebuild...
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Im thinking the same I think I have used one as well
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Ill tell you what if one of you guys buy the new Dayco and mail me it and you old one I will rebuild it and mail it back for the one that is on you car now. I have a good friend in Japan with a Z that's been down cause of catastrophic failure of his ZR1 tensioner. That way I can rebuild the traded one you give me so I can rebuild it and gift it to him. A perfect brotherhood circle.
Dave |
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Gonna have to try this. I have one with 30k on it that sometimes sticks a little, but isn't completely worn out. I was able to buy one of the last new ones for $199 and was happy to get it at the time.
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Wow!!!! $57 bucks. But it will work.
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Dynomite Have I mentioned lately that you rock :cheers:
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Just finished up rebuilding my tensioner with help of these instructions and all went well. Thanks again David for posting this up for the benefit of the Brotherhood.
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My Pleasure Jagdpanzer im so grateful it was helpful. How was the condition of all the bearings and dampener and spring?? Any pics?
Dave:saluting::cheers: |
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Here are the parts replaced from the doner:
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps389ba85f.jpg The finished tensioner: http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps4d3172ac.jpg The puller and insert I used to remove the cover: http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps35d3b5e2.jpg |
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Great job wonderful work Sir
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Dave,
You are too awesome and more than any words could say. Thank you for taking the time to document this. Craig |
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Craig thank you so much that means a lot. I just see in the future of our cars a lot of very scarce parts. And I'm use to repairing abnormal or very rare parts, right now I'm dissecting a secondary actuator to see what we can do about that when they become scarce. Thank you again for the kind words.
Dave:cheers: |
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There are so many smart folks like you in the Registry that help to keep this dream alive. I can only imagine the time it took you do document this and take all the photos so it is greatly appreciated. There are a lot more secrets out there, but not are all being shared like you took the time to do. I wish I could contribute like this and maybe one day a light bulb will turn on for me. Thanks again!! :cheers:
Craig :handshak: |
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How many miles did you have on it? Was it done? Or are you just re-working it?
Good idea on the remote cam too - now I need one with 'fingers'... |
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Um??? Well I had 88k on mine. Im not sure about it being done?? Remote Cam?
Dave:fahne: |
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Thanks Dave! I need a replacement tensioner and was ready to spend $138. Phil reminded me of this thread yesterday at the WAZOO get together and since WAZOO have all sorts of old parts inventory (Capt. Jim unlike me saves all worn-out parts), ordered two Dayco L98 tensioners for $79 including shipping. Soon we will have 2 new, fresh tensioners. What a resourceful bunch!!!
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That's wonderful Secondchance. I'm very glad the information Was helpful. If you need the artical Mark and I did on the news letter that can be found on the members only section of the registry website. It brings me great joy to know that it has been helpful and please post about your progress if you can. Nice thing about those L98 Dayco tenioners is that they come with the good pully with the guilds on the sides instead of the smooth one.
David Hetrick |
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I just used this thread to rebuilt mine. Perfection! Works like a charm!
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1LEZ that so great Im so glad. Thank you for the kind words David Hetrick |
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FYI, after an evening of Googling I have not been able to locate a Dayco 89298 (L98 tensioner for rebuild parts).
Well, I did get a few hits for places saying it can be drop shipped but expected delivery is two months away. Maybe I'll contact Marc or Jerry tomorrow to see if either has one or leads. |
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If you run a search for 1991 corvette belt tensioner a few new tensioners do pop up. Non Dayco though...
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If I buy one and try it I'll come back here and post results. |
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I found on RockAuto AC Delco 10055897 for the L98 (Discontinued as of 01/24/25). Same internals, correct pulley and also had the aluminum cover which was good for me because my original cover chipped when using a puller to remove it.
Didn’t suspect anything wrong with my original at 41k miles, but since I had the radiator and fans out, figured it was worth it. Took mine apart to find that the wear plate under the cover was completely gone, only the little tabs left. Also the spring was a little weak, I could operate the tensioner by hand. Swapped over new parts following this thread. Good as new! |
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H :cheers: |
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Dave.... your Facebook link is down. Where can we find the more complete instructions you posted there?
Thanks H :cheers: |
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I'm ordering the parts to rebuild my tensioner and these infos/pics might come handy. |
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Great post, going to have to do this soon, super helpful!
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Looks like Dave hasn't been on in a few months. I hope all is ok with him. Anyone know him in the outside world?
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I attempted this tensioner rebuild and cracked my back casing on the factory LT5 Tensioner while trying to tap the fresh tension spring in. I've called all around and nobody has a used/core available for sale.
I just installed a slew of new parts including injectors, radiator, ignition coils, starter, cam sensor, and knock sensor to get my ZR-1 Back up and running and now I'm dead in the water since I can't get a replacement tensioner. Can anyone give me some guidance on how to compress the spring to fit in into the housing? I'm trying to practice installing the spring back in the L98 Donor Part casing, and I've used a vice, and a set of 20" Pliers to try and compress it and no matter what I do I can't get it compressed enough to fit back into the casing... |
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ManPro - I ended up putting the spring in a vice with half of the width of the spring exposed. This allowed me to compress it enough to get the cover started. Once you get it started you can remove it from the vice and use a pair of channel grips to fully seat the spring. |
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Does anyone have the current part # for the L98 tensioner? Everyone seems to be out of stock of the Dayco 89298 which makes me think it may have been discontinued. Or, does anyone know of another tensioner that has the same "guts"?
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https://www.ecklers.com/1988-1991-co...B&gclsrc=aw.ds |
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Ecklers claim this to be correct for LT5. Can anyone confirm this??
(Ecklers current in-stock tensioner does NOT fit the LT5, you can however use the guts to rebuild yours - ZBrink) |
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