Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 277290)

Thanks Hans!

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Originally Posted by Wigert (Post 277299)

Hey

I have a similar problem and have been planning to try to repair it. I found the link below a while back.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-article.html

Anyone here tried it?

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Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 277661)

Here's the quick sequence of removing the Fuel Pump......

1. removed FP1 fuse from fuse block

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f6253ac5d4.png

2. started engine, let it run a bit to depressurize the system
3. disconnected battery
4. removed fuel fill cover (4 torx screws)
5. removed rubber fuel dam and disconnected fuel drain line

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ba99d08a69.png

6. removed white keeper key in plug

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...9dcf247eb2.png

7. disconnected plug
8. removed fuel supply, return and vent hoses (took pliers and gently rotated hoses on pipe nipples to allow me to remove them

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...31c183c4e2.png

9. removed 10 mm bolts, being careful to capture the o-rings on each
10. carefully lifted the pump assembly, rotated it 90 degrees CCW and carefully worked it out of the tank (had to work the fuel hoses a bit to clear the lip of the tank

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4c2fe28cd0.png

11. removed the gasket (carefully to prevent any debris in the tank
12. was surprised to see a tray in the bottom of the tank where the float rests in an empty tank (it was yellow plastic)
13. taped the tank opening closed with duct tape to prevent contamination and debris from entering the tank

Once on the bench, I clipped one lead of my meter to the purple wiper lead on then sending unit and the other lead to ground. Tank empty read about 0.5 ohms, Tank full initially read 95 ohms. There was nothing erratic during a sweep from tank empty to tank full. I worked it multiple times slowly, then rapidly and the tank full reading moved to 105 ohms and was stable. I guess I might have had a little debris in the potentiometer. I could also see interference between the float rod and the fuel hose clamp to the top fuel pump. Don't believe this would cause a problem, but should not be hitting it regardless.

The socks looked pretty good for 27 years old. Tank was clean as well. My new pump assembly is backordered from Jegs.. Should ship on April 19th.. I'll compare the new to the old and install the new one. Not sure what I'll do quite yet with the old one since it still appears to be working..

So, at this point, I don't know what caused my fuel gauge to stick to essentially full for the first 60 miles.. Guess there was a small amount of debris, but likely would have cleared itself after a few more miles of driving.. Oh well, good to replace the pumps and sending unit as preventive maintenance.. I'll attach some photos for entertainment..

Originally Posted by 9T1 Red ZR1 (Post 277769)

Hello,
I just ordered FLS1102 from carid.com for $300.43. It is the complete unit with two pumps, fuel sender and float. It came to my house in PA in two days. They still show two in stock if you are interested. I haven't installed mine yet, I am in the middle of other projects right now.


Bill

Originally Posted by A26B (Post 277772)

Check the socks, both of them. The last batch of senders we received had split/torn filter socks. Since you probably can't get a replacement for the long one, may have to reuse the old one or go with a standard, short one. Not a problem if you do.

Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 277776)

Jerry, do you carry the fuel pump gasket?

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Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 277781)

Found one and ordered from Parts Train ($378 shipped).

Refurbished the Sending Unit.

1. Carefully open the two tabs on the winding side of the potentiometer
Attachment 7309
2. Slowly lift off the winding housing by lifting away from the two tabs that have been bent open and ease off of the wiper shaft
3. With WD-40 and cue-tip or clean shop towel (blue paper), very carefully wipe the windings clean..
Attachment 7310
4. Then, using a new cue-tip or shop towel (blue paper), clean the wiper contact (brass). Mine was black with 27 years of junk.
Attachment 7311
5. Gently flex the contact tip spring open so that you get a little more spring pressure on the wiper/winding contact (see photo under step 1)
6. Reassemble by slipping the housing back under the tab that was not opened and over the wiper shaft. Then bend the two tabs you opened back down to secure the unit.
Attachment 7312
7. Recheck full sweep on the potentiometer, making sure it reads steady at any point (no matter how much you move the float shaft side to side) and that it smoothly sweeps from 1.4 ohms (tank empty on mine) to 92 ohms (tank full on mine).
Attachment 7313

Note: I could get the sending unit to be erratic before opening and cleaning the potentiometer by moving the float shaft side to side, especially at the tank full position. Further, I could duplicate the lack of response in the top range of the sending unit. There was enough junk on the wiper contact and the windings to cause it to be erratic. After this rebuild, the unit is rock steady, no matter what the position of the float arm!:salute:

Originally Posted by A26B (Post 277772)

Check the socks, both of them. The last batch of senders we received had split/torn filter socks. Since you probably can't get a replacement for the long one, may have to reuse the old one or go with a standard, short one. Not a problem if you do.

Originally Posted by PhillipsLT5 (Post 277957)

ACDELCO TS1
ACDELCO TS3
ACDELCO G1
AIRTEX E3240
AIRTEX E3240

Originally Posted by A26B (Post 277772)

Check the socks, both of them. The last batch of senders we received had split/torn filter socks. Since you probably can't get a replacement for the long one, may have to reuse the old one or go with a standard, short one. Not a problem if you do.

Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 278107)

New ACDelco fuel pump/sending unit got here today. Long sock is torn at the bottom heat fusion joint! Guess I'll try to get a replacement, or maybe I can get them t send me a new long sock/strainer? No guarantee that the replacement won't be torn too..same type as in the pic from spork2367 above.

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Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 278108)

Jerry,

This is the exact problem I just encountered with a new unit. If I can't get a proper replacement, I'm tempted to reuse the sock from the one I just repaired..

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Originally Posted by spork2367 (Post 278110)

I can’t find the correct long one anywhere. The place you bought it from is just a middle man warehouse, they won’t be any help. The TS3 is close dimensionally. If the old one isn’t brittle I’d just use that.

Originally Posted by jss06c6 (Post 278126)

Torn sock as received.. will put Racetronix socks on the unit..[ATTACH]

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