Aftermarket Head Unit Question
Hey everyone,
I apologize since I'm sure this has been asked before a thousand times but I can't find a definitive thread using the search and anything I DID Find had broken links due to age. So here we go again. My Base 1992 C4 is headed to a new home next week after 13 years. No reason other than I've got too many cars and don't want to keep doing all the maintenance. That means my ZR-1 will get driven more (Yessssss!). I want to replace my ZR-1 Head unit with something a bit more modern, but I would prefer to NOT have to modify the plastic frame of the dash. On Jim Voter's (WB93Z) suggestion I installed a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX in my base 1992 and it's absolutely amazing except because of the CD Player in it you needed to shave down the plastic housing in the dash on the bottom so it would be accessible/fully functional. Am I correct in assuming that a different 7" Double Din unit would work just fine if it did not have a CD player? Something like this? Or even this? 1- I'm not worried about the speakers. I'm planning to get the cable that adapts it to the current BOSE speakers/Amps. 2- Yes, I can afford to replace the whole setup, but I'd just rather not. The Pioneer sounded amazing on the BOSE speakers/amps using the adapter cable in my 92 so why re-invent the wheel? Recommendations? Thanks in advance! Marc |
Re: Aftermarket Head Unit Question
I used the DMH-C2550NEX with Crutchfield's adaptor cable using the original Bose amp/speaker combo.
The only mod needed was to trim the plastic behind the radio for some clearance. Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
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Although I have not installed either Pioneer DMH you and subfixer referred to, having installed 3 Pioneers double din units with CD and DVD players, as long as front panel doesn?t have to flip open (as with DMHs), you should be able to install the unit behind the bezel opening with minor mod to mounting adapters.
And, I agree OEM Bose set up is hard to beat with non-OEM amp and speakers due to lack of room up front. One trick is to replace 50 w C4 corvette Bose ams with 100 w Bose amps used in mid 90s Cadillacs. This allows a bit more oomph to the system. https://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread...ight=Subwoofer Adding a low profile sub hooked up to a dedicated amp for subwoofer only can be done and adds missing base to the sound but it a whole new subject. |
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Sorry? accidentally posted the same twice.
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I just installed a Pioneer DMH-5700NEX in my '94 but it already had an older aftermarket 2-DIN unit, so the frame behind it had been modified. The radio trim panel itself covering it is unmodified. This is a media only head unit; no CD/DVD tray, just HD radio, Satellite radio apps, whatever apps are on your phone, then there's an auxiliary input and you can use USB thumb-drive if you want to.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-TYPyut...053453cd26ac90 Having HD FM Radio, Wired/wireless CarPlay, built-in GPS, and everything else a modern vehicle comes with has been a refreshing experience. I used this Metra harness... https://www.crutchfield.com/product/...px?i=120701857 I used this mounting kit.... https://www.crutchfield.com/product/...px?i=120993051 |
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Thanks for the tips everyone.
I am thinking I may go with this unit. https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-DMHW4...ef_=ast_sto_dp Past me was looking out for future me because it turns out I two of THESE and still have one. The one I had before had the built in GPS, but I am not sure I can justify the $1200 for the current version of that unit. This one doesn?t seem to go as far into the dash either which means maybe no interior modification and plenty of space to hide the 18? worth of adapter cable that usually gets shipped. Wish it had physical buttons but on well. Anybody think of any issues with this plan? Thanks! |
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You don't want that cavity too full to prevent adequate venting and air circulation. I'd recommend leaving just enough length so you can pull the head unit out easily. My current plan, haven't done it yet, is to de-pin my metra harness behind the passenger seat while everything is installed, cut the wires to a more manageable length, then crimp new terminal ends on and put the connectors back on. If you don't have the terminal ends you could just cut the wires, remove some length, then use your preferred method of reconnecting. I'd rather do that than have six extra feet of wire crammed in somewhere.:cheers: |
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As for the Metra harness, if you know how to solder, you can cut and shorten the harness where it plugs into factory connector. Cutting RCA cable reveals wire in the middle which is positive signal wire and wire mesh shielding. Wiremesh gets rolled and insulated with heat shrink and is the ground. Both gets soldered to appropriate wire going into the connector that gets plugged into factory harness. When you dissect Metra harness, it will all make sense. |
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I installed a Pioneer AppRadio4 several years ago.No issue w fitting into stock radio opening. I love the iOS connectivity and added backup camera.
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IIRC, I ran the wire down the left side under the door sill coverup into the hatch area where I did drill a small hole that gave me access to the area under the rear bumper cover. I made a small bracket attaching the lens to it and positioned above the license plate using the plate lighting bolts to hold in place.
Works great. |
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I have all the pieces (minus the backup camera) and am hoping to install the head unit into my Z next week. All depends on work, weather and some medical stuff going on with my wife. Will let you know how it all goes! |
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:cheers:
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HO-K. That is a Sahweet earth.
Hrm. Because I'm not super mechanically inclined that took WAYYYYYYYY too long. About 10 hours in total I estimate which is tough since I did this same thing to another 1992 a few years ago. THIS IS THE UNIT I WENT WITH. https://myimages.bravenet.com/254/99...718228009.jpeg But I did it. https://myimages.bravenet.com/254/99...718227983.jpeg The shallow head unit required ZERO cutting of either the trim or the back of the dash when installed. It took FOREVER for me to get it lined up correctly in the opening. At one point I even pulled the head unit back out and pulled the mounts off to start over because it just wasn't working for me. It's slightly crooked now, but it works beautifully. The Metra Bose wiring harness is long AF, but it's coiled up under the glovebox now and here we are. Things to note. Wireless Carplay = Awesome. Connection for a phone on the back is USB-C. Not USB-A as so many are. It comes with a USB-C Extension which is easy to run into the armrest which is mostly just for charging my phone now. This unit CAN have two phones connected at once; which will make my wife happy since she's usually the DJ on car trips. The unit requires you plug a GPS antenna into the head unit to use Carplay GPS. Not sure why, I can only hope it uses the GPS antenna to assist the one in your phone, but I have no idea. I ran this into the glovebox easily enough. Personally I don't like the 4 touch sensitive buttons on the left side. I don't always hit them the first time causing a delay in whatever it is I want to do but for the volume it pops up a menu allowing you to use the screen to control the volume. It also has clearly defined volumes on the screen for BOTH Music, and navigation announcements, which is really great. Radios/Cars are SUPER complex compared to years prior. There must be 20 different wires that I taped off because I didn't need them. Speed sensors, reverse sensors, camera sensors, parking sensors etc etc. I worked on this for a couple hours yesterday afternoon and stopped so I could read about the different sensors to know if I would cause myself any heartburn not connecting them. There are 3 different ground wires in the harness to from the radio. ALL must be connected in order for it to operate. I did NOT hook up the antenna for standard Radio partly because after hunting for it for about an hour and just being unable to find it I decided to move on. And because I usually listen to satellite radio so I'm not sure I'll need it. We'll see if I regret this or not. If i run into any major issues with his head in the next couple weeks I'll be sure to update this post, but otherwise for the money I'm pleased. Hope this helps anybody looking at a new head unit but not wanting to modify the trim or inside of the dash! |
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The VSS wire on the radio is used to help calibrate GPS, which you may be interested in. The VSS signal from the car is behind the head unit in the center I/P, so if you want to connect it later it isn't hard. The parking sensor will lock you out of certain functions if the head unit cannot detect the car's parking brake is on. There are ways around this which require using a little bypass module. If you want to add a reverse camera in the future, then I'd recommend running switched 12V to the camera and don't power the camera using your reverse lights. If you power the camera using the reverse lights, then once you go into reverse, you'll have to wait for the camera to power up before you see anything. By having it powered via switched 12V it'll always be powered, have no delay, and you can press the camera button at any time to see behind you even if not in reverse. Quote:
1994 FSM pics, hopefully similar to a 90. |
Re: Aftermarket Head Unit Question
Good info for everyone thank you!
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Nice work on the install! :thumbsup:
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