Coil Over Installation
The Coil Over Installation Process
Jim Milstead, DRM and JeffVette all contributed to the pre-process. The following links are where I started. Rears click the link then replace the *s with CF spelled out Fronts click the link then replace the *s with CF spelled out So, good start. I did not like some parts of it. In comes Carter. Here's where I departed and some lessons learned. Get the car on jacks as high as you can. Remove the old stuff per the service manual. You will need a puller to remove the tie rods and spindle in the front. *****TIP***** Remove the lower and upper A-arms completely. It will help remove the spring and then spread out the mount. I had all of the old stuff removed in about two hours. It took two months to get it back together. *****TIP***** Have all of the parts necessary prior to starting. Carter has a tremendous start on this--now. I did not want to cut into my front frame area. Carter made these mounting devices and I replaced the stock sway bar mounting brackets with Energy Suspension brackets (see picture) from Autozone for a 1inch sway bar. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/0b9d5fef.jpg The stock bolts will not do to mount into the frame. You need bolts long enough to go through the block into the frame. Size is 10mm x 1.5 pitch. Two long for the outsides and one smaller for the inside (threaded). You can see how I did it here: http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/fc77cb5e.jpg *****TIP***** Fronts are fairly straight forward. Now for the fun--Rears. You will need to mill the head and reverse the suspension mounting bolts per Milstead's thread above. Get a pry bar. I did not like the weld then drill method for the old mounts--did have the resources. Carter made some great mounting brackets but they require shaving the upper urethane bushing. I figured it only mounts the gear and the bracket and bushing insert take up the slack. *****TIP****** Get a dremel with a quick attachment cutting wheel. After I figured this out I was done in an hour. Use it to open the rear frame area. I did not have the necessary tools or experience to accomplish Milstead's write up opening. It also would have required removing most/all of the rear suspension. I used a grinding bit on an air compressor small grider to round the corners. Here's what I did: Old http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/adf13ae0.jpg New http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/873696c5.jpg Carter's Bracket http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/56e43283.jpg Mounted on frame: http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/8a2d949a.jpg D@mn site--can't put up more than 8 images. This will get sporty. Go to end to see more. Ted |
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i would call corey on this . he has a great install proceedure
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opps face is a mistake. it early fingers stiff:D
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Ted, I'll forward over some instructions.
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I think I have an interesting way to accomplish the front without cutting into the frame.
Question on the rear for anyone that has done this: is the frame area strong enough to cut out a new clearance area and what kind and how do you tighten the bolts holding the shock/coil in place? |
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Demps,
I am interested in seeing what you learn. I have some of the parts for this stashed away. |
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X2 im awaiting some new rear springs and a few poly kits from Summit (End links and such) and Im almost ready do get this done as well. |
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Well...Holy Sh!t.
I have to admit: I had more fun today than I've had in a long time. I love working on my cars. Almost knew what I was doing. Must first tell a story on myself-->I bought the dark red car and it had a service ride control light. Well, I had sent out some Bilstein's to have rebuilt (for the coil overs sitting on the shelf). On they went (dark red car). Fast forward 10 months. Black car sits too high with the Fikses. So, first I had to transfer the shocks from dk red car to black car. Hour and a half later I got started. The short of it: rear is ready, minus a minor opening, for the install plus the following story. The front...not so much, BUT I thought I was close. Ready to remove the spring, after the control arms. I have to get a puller. The following story: the economy is not that bad. No one wants my money. Tried four machine shops to fabricate what I think I need for minimal frame modifications. Turns out the fourth said no until I explained "Corvette ZR-1"...so maybe a chance. More to follow. Anyone want some sway bar relocation pieces and rear shock relocation mounts? Ted |
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Hope to get some options tomorrow. I'll post when I do. Ted
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Well, here's what I've learned so far:
Front: Haven't removed the front spring yet. Ran out of time. Wanted to remove everything that I needed fab work on. There are options for front mods from using all of your equipment, drilling new holes in the frame, and expanding shock tower to relocating the front sway bar & using smaller bushing mounts and heim links. Well, I'm not too big a fan of modifying the frame. Therefore, I thought I'd just have a local shop (in BF Florida) make the mount. Well, turns out it is expensive for such a small run. Welcome to the ZR-1 world you say...yes I agree. So, off to Guildstrand to buy a front block of aluminum with four bolts for $85 list...oh and they won't process the order for some reason after a day of trying. Rear: Spring removed. Bolt removed to shave the head and reverse. Frame not modified. Once again, thought it would be easy to "make" a new shock bracket. (D!mn, had access to a CNC machine at my previous job.) Not so much on the setup cost for making them...for now. I did learn this: the bracket is tempered and pressed. HARD! If a bracket were made, thickness would be critical to the gear seating correctly and must be strong because the rear weight will rest on the mount. The concerning part was the bracket's mounting bolt holes were slightly elongated and the bracket was not precisely flat still. If I reuse them, I will check them after a short while for their ultimate strength and shape. So, I'm at the ZR-1 point. (definition: that point in the modification process at which you are waiting on parts). More later. Ted |
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you check with Carter here on the forum for the rear stuff?
he is a machinist |
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http://guldstrand.com/scripts/prodVi...?idproduct=144 |
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This is what is needed to reposition the front bar as well correct? Do you know whats needed for the rear Jeff? |
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Locobob post on CF: http://www.pnwzr1.net/Robert/Coilover/Guldsbrkresz.jpg |
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the rear you need: flip trailing arm bolts and grind down the head part way move the top of the shock forward 1/2" to do that you either weld and drill and new hole in the plate or 2 holes in the frame. you also need to open the frame to allow room for the FX3 gear assembly to clear the frame too |
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Ted,
Where'd you go? :dontknow: |
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Just talked to Ted on the phone. Looks like it's go time :thumbsup:
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Wacha doing Carter? :happy1: |
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Thanks Ted. I always leave the ball in the customers court. Do not want to steal anyones thunder. Mums the word :eusa_shhh
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So which car is getting the coil's?
The Black car or the Dark Red car? Cheers, Rat |
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Black car...I hope.
Ran across Hairball? |
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Guys,
I assume Rat and Hairball are call signs? (assuming I am using the right terminology) |
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Ted you need to let us in on the machining concept.
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Nothing to hide. Just want to make sure it works.
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Lol no was not saying that :razz: Just keep us up to date |
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Another rumor is I'll be returning to Vegas in a month... I might get transfered to another position with LM in Vegas... Yes, it would still be flying... Yes Rat and Hairball are call signs just like Demps has the call sign Vader... |
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Sorry to be off topic, but I am curious on how you end up with your call signs? |
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Vader came from some buffoonery, some ability to talk to the jet, and some ability for a few mind tricks. More than that and we'll have to be drinking.
Back on task: Pictures would be like everyone else's so have taken any. Here's some more lessons learned: Get the car off of the ground. Two-post lift would be great. Didn't have one so VERY high on jack stands. Aluminum is very soft. Watch scuffing it. '95 front springs do not have the spring "protector" mounted on the outside. Take off the brake rotor and caliper. Take off the entire (top and bottom) front spindle. Must open the hole in the shock's collar to slide down the "shaft" (sts) past the o-ring for the gear so the spring hat will seat properly. Keep track of the parts...there will be some extra on purpose. more later. Should have the front (minus roll bar) complete tomorrow. Waiting on mounting hardwar for roll bar and rear shocks. Ted |
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Front is together...waiting on Carter's magic for sway bar mounting.
Need to torque rear and grind opening for shock gear. Then waiting on more of Carter's magic. When I get finished i'll post pix and final thoughts. |
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Well, Carter is beyond belief!!! I'll put up some pictures of the entire project when I get finished.
He's working on the rear components--wish I had them now and you'd be seeing his great work! Anyway, his work is amazing. The car will be a work of art. I am waiting to complete but if you're wanting to install coil overs, get with Carter (or me) and get these parts.... Ted |
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