Rear Suspension Pictures
 

SecondChance asked me to get some pictures of high-mile rear tie rod components. The issue is to track down a noise from the rear end of his '94 ZR-1.

Here are some pictures for you (from a 104K mile 1993):

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC03002.jpg

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC03001.jpg

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02999.jpg

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC03000.jpg

Are the left and right tie rods connected in the center housing, or is it just a pivot point for angular movement?

I guess I need one of you "batwing shiners" to come over and help me clean under my car.

Jim

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

Hey Jim,

I have a set of electronic sensors we can put on to different parts of the rear to see where the noise is coming from

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

Here's some from a 70K mile'r

Rich

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

That sounds like a tool I need to see in action. :thumbsup:

We used to use equipment like that on the submarines.

Jim

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

It is actually called a Wireless Chassis EAR Electronic Stethoscope

works great for finding noise

When we are done with the snow we can get together and give it a try :cheers:

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

I cant wait to hear about this in action

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

OK.. I see some newer spring insulators and some parts that reflect a 100K+ mileage ZR (my hat off to you for that mileage). Not knowing the exact nature of the "noise from the rear end" my comments deal with deteriorated seals of the axle tie rod to diff carrier assembly and axle tie rod outer sockets.

The obvious problem of lube leakage and possible seal failure would allow for the contamination of the tie rod diff carrier assembly which would cause 'noise' with suspension movement. Here is a 2400 mile ZR of the same part in your first picture>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...iffcarrier.jpg

And the axle tie rod out socket insulator looks hardened and worn...again compare to a less mileage ZR>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...utersocket.jpg

Regardless of the final determination of noise source would recommend appropriate replacement of worn parts...at 100K+ one would say it is time :mrgreen:

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

Man... You guys are awsome!
For now I ordered both rear wheel bearings - I know dricer side needs replacement anyway.
Also ordered a gasket for the oil pan from Jerry since he started making one for 93 and up.
I talked to Marc and his suggestion was to jack up the spring and release tension on suspension joints and move them around and look for excessive movement.
That noise detector sound intriguing.:cheers:

That center joint looks like a ball and socket joint. Anyone know?

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

Thanks for all the comments. And thanks for the additional pictures. :thumbsup:

Notice the rear tie rod differences between the 1993 (mine) and the 1990's.

I should clrify what we are doing.

The pictures I (Jim, OP) posted were of my 1993 QB (104K miles). It does not have a noise problem, just cleanliness issues.

SecondChance's (Yun's) car (1994 >110K miles) is the one with the suspension noise. He asked me to post some pics so that we could have an intelligent conversation about the parts of the rear suspension that might be a source of his noise.

Please keep the comments coming.

Jim

Re: Rear Suspension Pictures
 

Okay I think I'm stating the obvious but I'll write this any way....:redface:

The Toe rod system(?) center of diff mounting to the lower knuckle is a ball joint, well sort of as it uses the same mechanical principals. If you have ever manipulated a ball joint going bad you have felt that it's not smooth, rather it feels notchy as it is moved in the socket. If you drive the studs out of the Knuckle and manipulate them they will either feel smooth and tight or loose and notchy. If they are dry then you could also expect noise something akin to the noise that a shot A-arm bushing makes...that annoying squeaking as the arm actuates over bumps in the road. You didn't describe the noise, high pitched squeaking (rust related) or a bass sounding clunking ( eroded ball & socket with too much end play in the vertical plane ) or snapping sound?

If the boots are cracked then the lube will have all run out and the joint is N/G. It will have rusted, or eroded or both. Too bad we can't lube them up at intervals.

Okay that's my two cents on the situation....:mrgreen:

:cheers:
Tom