The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

While changing my fuel injectors, I also changed my spark plugs. The #8 plug is in a difficult spot to say the least. Here's how I changed mine. First, I used a spark plug socket (with rubber holder inside) with a 3" 3/8 extension bar. Work it into #8 hole, the end of the extension should be visible. Attach a 3/8 universal joint, then another 3/8 extension bar (I used a 12"), and a socket wrench to the end of that. Should look like this
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1646
Loosen the spark plug until it is free. Now take apart everything up to the 3" extension bar. It won't come out with the spark plug attached so, pull the 3/8 extension out alittle bit (you might need needle nose to do this)and grab it with a pair of channel locks. With a screw driver push the socket down, while pulling up with channels, and separate the socket from the extension.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1647
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1649
Now to get the socket out. I took apart one of those telescoping mirrors with magnet, by unscrewing the magnet.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1650
Tape the magnet onto a piece of wire. Make sure you wrap it tight, you don't want to lose your magnet down there. I used electrical tape and put a couple wraps around the bottom for good measure. Don't worry it works through the tape. I tested it on a heavy socket to be sure.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1651
Fish the socket out of the hole.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1652

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Get your new spark plug ready. This is what the assembly looks like together.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1654
First, drop the new plug down the hole. Then work the 3" extension bar into the socket, attach the universal, and hand start the new plug. Attach the 12" extension bar with a torque wrench on the end. Tighten 19 ft/lbs (according the LT-5 supplement manual).
http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php...pictureid=1655
Once it's tight, gently turn the wrench CCW to help loosen the socket from the plug, don't loosen the plug from the block. Disassemble the socket and long extension. Now work the rest of the assembly free of the plug. Once it's free, take off the universal joint and remove 3" extension and socket. Your done, easy right:-D.
P.S. Thanks again Dynomite for resizing tip.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

It's amusing to see that we all come up with just about the same approach to doing #8. I used the same setup but lowered one piece at a time attaching the next while holding the first etc. Once loosened I just reversed the operation. When inserting the new plug I tape it to the socket and lower it in attaching the extensions one at a time while lowering it in.
After a while you develop a muscle memory and can do it by feel and can keep your eyes shut.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

I have a 15 degree wobble (1 inch extension), a cut-off Taiwanese 5/8 spark plug socket and a magnet. I can also work it with a standard full length socket with the right combination of parts.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7051/specialtool.jpg

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Funny, I think I was too proud to look up a tip on this subject and came up with a similar solution that worked for me.

I used fishing string around the 3" extenstion's shaft to pull it out after the spark plug was unscrewed completely. also used the universal upstream of the 3" and the longer extension as you did. I then separated the 3" extension and the socket and left the socket inside the hole, along with the sparkplug which was in the rubber insert.

I was then able to use the head of a 10 penny nail to hook the socket from inside the square hole and grab it with my fingers as it got high enough to do so...at least I think that's how I remember doing it.:cheers:

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Fishing line!? Cut down Taiwanese sockets, 10-penny nails, screw drivers, pliers, dropping the plug in then fishing for it, magnets, electrical tape....

Guys...your killin' me here. :)

It's easy to get that plug in and out. You need the following commonly-available 3/8-drive tools:

1) spark plug socket with integral u-joint.
2) one-inch extension
3) u-joint
4) 12 or 18-in extension
5) ratchet or torque wrench

Put it all together then take the plug out. No muss. No fuss.
Takes a few seconds.

I've been using those tools to change #8 since I bought the car in '95.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1659
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1660
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1661
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1662
http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?a...pictureid=1663

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

Sorry. As you can tell, I don't do code. I tried to use the site's image insert feature. Maybe it didn't work right.
If there's a problem with the images, I don't understand what it is. I clicked on the links and I see the images so I assumed everyone else can see them.

As for the flex ratchet, that was just what I had sitting on the bench out in the shop when I went to take the photos. Actually, when I'm doing it for real, I use a short ratchet. That way there's no chance to over tighten plugs. The 93-95 head has tapered plug seats so you don't need to use a lot of torque and, yeah, I should use a torque wrench, but...I'm lazy and, at this point in life, I have a good feel for tightening things.

And...just in case anyone's interested, I have Denso IT-22s in that engine.

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

Hib
lots of mumbo jumbo about so-called "code" can be made simple about posting a pic.
Go to your pic here on the forum and look a the field under it
called "BB code". Just copy and paste that code into your text where you want the pic to be. All done.

I agree with your assessment of over complicating the deal with #8
The fewer the pieces used the better feel you have for torque I say.
I use even fewer tools than you by one. I put the ratchet directly on
the extension, no elbow at all.
That is, one plug scocket (w/tape to secure it because i don't trust the socket rubber piece), one 1" extension, one 3" extension, one ratchet.
Insert one at a time and hold it while attaching the next part.
On removal I might put a short pipe on the end of the ratchet.

I too have a pretty good feel for torque on plugs. Occasionally I'll pull out a torque wrench to verify my "feel" :)
I'm usually within 2lb on anything <20lb.

Re: The dreaded #8 plug, improved
 

Yewowza!

I'm with Hib too on tnis one. 3/8" drive plug scocket with intergal swivel, (I use just a 2-1/2" extension) and the ratchet goes down directly on the end of the extension. Break the torque amd it screws out by hand. Installation in reverse._

Re: The dreaded Red Xs
 

No it can't.
That's why you need to buy an iPhone 5.

Well...also because we Apple stockholders can continue to enjoy our standard-of-living if you do.
:)

As for my #8 tool, the reason why I used two u-joints was to eliminate what "Scottfab" has to do...hold the parts in place as he connects the next piece. I came up with that the first time I changed plugs on the engine, shortly after I bought the car.

All I do is pull out the plug boot then drop the socket on the end in the hole, attach my ratchet and take out the plug. Actually, I use that tool on one other hole mainly because other parts prevent a straight shot down the plug hole. For the other six plugs I do it Chrysler Hemi style...a 20-in extension with a plug socket on one end and a T-handle on the other. In days past I crewed on a Top Fuel car once in a while and they had these T-wrench/socket contraptions used to spin the plugs in and out which were so easy to use. The handles were short so no one could overtorque a plug.