[VetteMed]

Update:
My rear differential continues to leak oil from the pinion seal. This is the second seal I've put in, along with a repair sleeve around the yoke sealing surface. I am hoping that I did an inadequate job of cleaning the outer seal bore in the differential housing, or there's a nick that I missed, and perhaps cleaning that up, plus a new seal, and some "the right stuff" around the outer seal bore, might stop the leak. I've also got the kent-moore seal driver tool on the way, since last time I just used a block of wood.

I don't care so much about the leak, but when it drips on the exhaust, it really stinks. Hopefully next time around will seal it up.

Today I think I fixed my persistent FX3 problems. When I first got the car rolling again, I had every code in the book - at least 6 or 7 codes present. Clearing them a few times got rid of all but the Left Rear out of position. I tried swapping the L front actuator on to the L rear shock, for testing, with no change at all. I then returned the LR actuator to the LR shock, and then swapped the entire shock and actuator assembly from LR to RR, and the code disappeared. I can't explain it, but I'm not complaining.

I pulled the plenum yesterday, to re-do the wiring for the AC compressor clutch. When I replaced the wires last year, the replacement pigtail did not have the clamping diode, and so I've been paranoid that I'm going to fry the ECM once I get the AC working again. Eckler's sells the wiring with the diode, so I swapped that in. I never really got a clear answer about whether or not the ZR-1 has that diode elsewhere in the harness, so I figured this was safer than guessing.

I've been a little concerned about a possible engine oil consumption issue. I can't be sure just yet, I need to monitor it a little closer, and there's still some slight seepage from somewhere in the front of the motor, but it seems that the level on the dipstick has dropped faster than I would expect from the amount I find on the garage floor.