Quote:
Originally Posted by scottfab
Battery......
If you put cables on and it starts right up then it's battery.
I assume by "cables" you mean a jump.
The car is very sensitive to a marginal battery.
Also, I'd leave the clutch switch in place. It's a safety feature.
They only burn up if you don't have the clutch fully pushed
when you turn the key.
Many get in the habit of turning the key as they press the clutch
and this put a hurt on the switch (arcs inside)
I've never had an issue with my clutch switch in 15yrs of driving.
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ABSOLUTELY!!! I was just about to say this very thing!
A while back I posted a schematic for a relay to do the heavy lifting, leaving the clutch switch to simply activating the relay - vastly reducing current draw through the switch. However, in retrospect, the problem with the arching is simply moved from the switch to the (mechanical) relay. So! I think I'll re-design the circuit and put a MIL spec solid state (FET) in place of the relay (read: no arching ever).
That said, Marc Haibeck made the comment once that he bypassed the clutch switch because pressing on the clutch puts a good deal of force on the thrust bearing in the LT5, a bearing that can be very dry, depending on how long it has been between startups. So... There's that to consider.
This discussion is warming to a tech article for the Registry, methinks!!
But, in the mean time, I agree - we should be a smashin' da clutch afore turnin da key, doanchaknow!!
P.