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Old 11-23-2012   #12
Paul Workman
 
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
Default Re: Changed my air box

Quote:
Originally Posted by vilant View Post
Thanks, guys, I don't know if it looks good, lol, but it will when I have it painted.
Paul, the claw was still connected to the air horn via the accordian. Are you saying the accordian would collapse at WOT w/ the original air box but not the claw? Or either, because of the accordian? How did you find out it was collapsing? And where do you find the insert your talking about? It would be interesting to see what the difference is between the two on a dyno. I have both, but it costs $150 for 3 runs on a dyno at the shop near me. Not sure I want to spend that to quell my curiousity though, lol.
I didn't realize the "Claw" retained use of the accordion tube. Too bad - a missed opportunity, methinks.

Yes, the accordion, otherwise unsupported, will likely collapse at WOT even if attached (in my case) to an open K&N filter box.

I learned on this site that collapsing was an issue with the hose, and it occured at around 5500 rpm or so. That too was my case: fell flat on it's nose at 5500 rpm.

Killing two birds w/ one rock, or sleeve, as it were, I used a strip of 16ga aluminum cut approx. as wide as the tube is long and approx a foot or a little more long and shaped it into an oval to fit snuggly on the inside of the hose. I trimmed the lenght to overlap enough so I could pop-rivit the seam. Works like a dream, and I knew it the first time I went WOT and it pulled hard to 7000+ rpm.

Not wishing to beat a dead horse, but some go to all the trouble of routing out the inside of the air horn at the same time the TB is opened up to 63mm or so and not address the accordion hose seems counter productive (to me). Certainly the TB effort works - well known fact, and maybe porting the air horn helps too. But, I have an idea that to go to that extent and NOT address the flow across that accordion bridge piece can't be as affective as it would be if it was smoothed out. And, when I look at the C5 and C6 filtered air intake tubes - i.e., smooth - it seems like that issue was finally taken into account.

Dyno time is expensive, no question. And, dyno time is further increased when there is any significant increase in output resulting from a physical change, as the tune may need to be tweaked to be keep everything in balance after the change. However, it would be interesting to test this and other ideas to see what is valid and if so by how much. It gives me an idea for possibly a funded dyno session setup for the purpose of exploring this and other power adder ideas. After all, the Registry helps sponsor certain social events, why not a a "tech" event that consists of a specific, formal set of experiments in order to quantify validity? Just a though.

P.
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