Quote:
Originally Posted by 5ABI VT
This has been on my mind a lot as of late. So far I am stuck with the multiple threads on corvette forum and other forums showing the cheaper brand radiators to work as well as the $$$ ones we have available. Personally I have an issue with trusting them because I want the best option regardless of cost but some posts show nearly identical rads for 1/3rd to 1/3 the price :/.
Anyhow I wanted to ask about cleaning methods. Anyone have any input on the best way to clean the rads out? My thoughts were soap and spray but if the crud is packed in the fins.. Maybe a long bristle brushed pressed into the rad? I don't want to be bending any fins etc.
I know generally oem stuff isn't the best vs aftermarket but I have spoken to a few people including Tom Dewitt about the actual benefits of more cores etc. from what I know, aluminum radiator requires much more surface area vs a brass/copper core radiator. I don't even remember what the oem radiators are made from?
My car is too clean to take down for rad cleaning I may drive it a few times first and let it get dirty before pulling it out. I will do a higher % mix of water with coolant and water wetter. I will make a thread showing what I find for sure. We had a very hot week last week but temps are dropping now so I don't really feel there is a 'need' for more cooling capacity like some of you who drive in extremely hot weather. I will start with cleaning it out and doing a t stat and drilling holes.
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The OEM stuff is fine unless you started modding the engine. Keep in mind you have more than 20 years of sand and grit that has built up over the years between the fins and the end on the old units tend to be brittle and swell with age. You can get an OEM replacement for pretty cheap. I would pull it and make an assessment. If you start scrubbing you going to stat bending fins. After you pull it and tap it lighty on the driveway sand and silt wil stard dropping.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014
GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's)
GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V
Arizona State Director
91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat
90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat
11 RED/GREY CTS-V