I think you are on the right track with everything suggested. I've had a great experience with all the DRM products.
VB&P posts a good reference for alignment specs:
https://www.vbandp.com/instructions/...pecs/file.html. I believe you can get up to ~1.5 neg camber up front w/o pulling the bushings out (just shims). You'll need to remove your upper A-arms to get the bushings out and get the full ~3 degrees.
A SPC Fastrax Camber/Caster gauge allows me to do my own alignments. Depending on what I'll be doing, I occasionally set the car back up for the street.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-91000. Revalved shocks will make a big difference as well.
I run the stock rim sizes, but have been cautioned about making sure my high-pressure power steering hose is fresh and running redline fluid should I run 315s up front. DRM sells a braided PS hose for this reason, but only for the LT1 cars. I know that the ZR-1 Pirate race car went into the wall at Laguna Seca, coming out of the cork-screw, as a result of the PS hose failing.
Also consider the 13:1 close-ratio steering rack if you are primarily running autocross. It's really quirky on the highway, but not bad for the track. Lastly, I absolutely love the DRM stainless steel caliper pistons, as well as their brake bias spring. I consistantly brake hard, and have yet to experience brake fade (running high-temp fluid and have brake ducts). I run Carbotech XP12/10s, DBA T3 front/StopTech Cyro rear rotors on the '88 Z51 Corvette (32/26 bars) w/ R888s for practice and R7s for race.
Regards,
Mark