Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
Some time ago I encountered that problem. If the green light is not on, the secondary port throttles will not be enabled.
I replaced the key assembly and the problem did not recur. After the car ran correctly for a few weeks I reinstalled the original key assembly to confirm that the key assembly was defective. The problem did not return. Was there a resistive connection on one of the two cable connectors? You could try unplugging the cables and reconnecting them. It's easy to do.
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Kevin successfully reconditioned the Full Power Key as I also did......
See item #2 CMHSL LED, Full Power Key and Alternator Pulley
Using needle nose pliers
I bent the "blades" shown in red to their new position shown in yellow (the bending taking place at point A and point B).
This allows the cam of the switch to fully contact the yellow "blades" while fully closing the silver contacts located in the top right corner of the photo of the Full Power Switch.
The original position of the "blades" shown in red actually did not stay in contact with the cam requiring jiggling the switch back and forth until contact was made of the cam with the "blades". Then vibration would break that contact and you have a non working Power Switch or intermittent working Power Switch in which the silver contacts on the top right would not stay fully closed. You could feel that the Power Key was loose with no resistance in the Full Power Mode indicating there was no contact with the "blades".
I used a bit of white grease on the cam and cam pin.
