[evl_twn]

I figured replacing the coolant was going to be a pain without the air bleed path through the plenum/TB. I read Marc's article about lifting up the passenger side of the car, and the revision using air to pressurize the system. Then I saw a few posts and watched a few videos on using a vacuum test/fill kit and bought one. Seems like the best option to me, works exactly like drawing down an AC system before adding refrigerant. Leak checks work the same way.

I purged the system and let it sit for a while, held a solid 25" of hg the whole time. The hoses even collapsed a bit. It was so much easier to add coolant back to the engine, it has a fill line that draws it in using the vacuum created. I think I actually added more coolant than what I drained so it might have been low to begin with, and that's with the lines through the TB still connected so the capacity might be a bit less now.

I was worried a bit about air pockets and bleeding the system but apparently this completely eliminates that issue. When the vacuum came back to "0" and it stopped drawing coolant I removed the tool and found the level was just below the cap. I added maybe half a cup of coolant to bring it up to the top, hooked up the expansion tank line and started it up. Temps seemed perfectly normal, both coolant pipes from the right and left injector housings were equal in temp.

I just got back from the first drive after buttoning everything up and all temps seemed normal. I'll double check the level after everything cools back down and also make sure it draws coolant back up from the expansion tank.