90 zr1 power steering lines

[TomZR1]

noticed it was leaking oil and I brought in to a local repair shop and mechanic said two power steering lines were leaking, he wanted almost $500 to fix it. Just wondering if anyone had this problem and tried to fix it, is it easy? Also im sure its the lines because I dont have any more power steering fluid left

[TomZR1]

No dident have them do it way to much mola,might try fix myself is it hard to do

[mike100]

Can you have a hydraulic shop rebuild your original lines(rehose orig fittings).

[batchman]

I've had three power steering line failures on our two c4s.

Two cracked at the rack - for the ZR-1 I found a replacement and was a PITA to replace. The Z51 could not be found and had to be made - took a while but was not terribly expensive. Still a PITA to replace. I think it took a crows' foot wrench but can't remember that well.

One failed at the factory crimp fitting, where it goes from rubber to steel. That one I cut off the crimp band and fixed with a hose clamp (or maybe two). It was also a PITA but with a dremel and a cable/wand drive I got it done.

From what I can tell the crimp fittings are a somewhat common failure.

HTH,
- Jeff

[TomZR1]

Well I just found out it wasnt my power steering lines, its my rack and pinion. Im looking on eckler's corvette site and it was around $225.00 and to rebuild one it will cost 350.00 so I will buy a new one. Does anyone know where I can get a rack and pinion for cheaper than 225.00?
Also how does a rack and pinion go bad at 80k miles? Just my luck, the joys of owning a sports car

[mike100]

Its 24 years old. The seals dried out. Maybe you can just get the end seals replaced??

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by TomZR1

Well I just found out it wasnt my power steering lines, its my rack and pinion. Im looking on eckler's corvette site and it was around $225.00 and to rebuild one it will cost 350.00 so I will buy a new one. Does anyone know where I can get a rack and pinion for cheaper than 225.00?
Also how does a rack and pinion go bad at 80k miles? Just my luck, the joys of owning a sports car

Your location is a "bonus" TurnOne engineering is in Saginaw and I'd suggest "no one" else to consider for a steering-rack replacement if that's what your told is needed. The Ecklers piece that you've priced is a "generic build" of one that's failed for who knows what reason. A quality build of yours might likely be more expensive but it will last if done by a quality builder.

I don't know if Muskegon Brake does steering-racks or not but they could certainly accomplish a repair. It appears from this information page they do steering-racks:

http://www.muskegonbrake.com/corvette/steering

http://turnone.squarespace.com/power-steering-racks/

You do NOT want to do this repair more than once - I'd suggest a conversation with either.

[TomZR1]

Thanks I'll look into

[TomZR1]

Ok got my rack & pinion getting it installed tomorrow ,figered I can replace power steering line since its there only problem can't find one tried napa,orielys,every local auto parts in my area and nothing,called corvette central and they said 2 weeks holy crap,so going to try some places that make hoses.any one know where I can get one by tomorrow (ya wright)

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by TomZR1

Ok got my rack & pinion getting it installed tomorrow ,figered I can replace power steering line since its there only problem can't find one tried napa,orielys,every local auto parts in my area and nothing,called corvette central and they said 2 weeks holy crap,so going to try some places that make hoses.any one know where I can get one by tomorrow (ya wright)

Let me check something...OK.....this is not going to help you immediately....I just took a look and cannot see the fittings going into the Power Steering Unit. But.......I would say if it happens to me I will make my own SS Braided Power Steering Lines.

I have never had one of these hydraulic lines with Aeroquip Reusable Fittings leak and they are much much tougher than original crimped fittings and easily replaced or adjusted if you want to at some point make them longer or shorter (the fittings are reusable). And......you will find a much better routing of the lines if you make them yourself by looking at the routing of the existing Power Steering Lines. The Aeroquip Reusable Fittings come in all sizes and angles to fit any situation. You can make your own oil cooler lines as shown here and Power Steering Lines or any other hydraulic line you might need on the ZR-1.

See ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics

How to make your own SS Braided Hydraulic Lines with reusable fittings

Tools: One 10 inch cresent wrench (Box Wrench is best), One vice, Air compressor, Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel). The best tool for cutting the SS Braided Hose is a Small Angle Grinder (with Cut Off wheel) which does not fray the SS braids on the hose ends. It is also best to use an appropriate size Box Wrench on the Hose Fittings (box end) to minimize leaving marks on the fittings. I use Aeroquip Reusable Fittings and SS Braided hose from Summit Racing.



1. Place SS Braided hose in vice and cut SS Braided hose to length using Angle Grinder with Cut Off wheel. Angle grinder is preferred since minimal SS wires are left free of the cut.
2. Make sure no SS Braided wires enter the hose end and make sure all loose SS Braided wires are ground flush with end. Keep the hose in the vice with about 2 inches on the free end out of the vice. (Clean the inside of the hose end Cut Off before going further with Cotton Cue Tip .
3. Take the AN reusable hose fitting and unscrew the male part from the female part. The other end of the male part will have an NPT pipe thread or "O" ring seal thread size (AN) as desired.
4. Take the AN reusable hose fitting female part and screw onto the SS Braided hose (counterclockwise) by hand pushing onto the hose as you rotate the female hose fitting counterclockwise.
5. Screw the AN female reusable hose fitting onto the hose such that the hose is at a depth into the female fitting as defined by the lines on the female fitting surface.
6. Lubricate the inside diameter of the SS Braided hose with oil through the end of the female fitting.
7. Insert the male reusable hose fitting into the lubricated hose through the end of the female fitting.
8. Push the male fitting into the hose as you rotate the male fitting clockwise using a cresent wrench (Box Wrench preferred). Once the threads are caught, continue rotating the male fitting into the hose untill approximately 1/16 inch space is left between the hexigon of the male fitting and female fitting.
9. Install the second hydraulic reusable hose fitting on the other end of the hose as per steps 2 through 8 above.
10. Last...but not least....take an air hose (Air Compressor) and blow the hose clear to make sure you have a clean assembly (if the SS Braided hose is not too long look through the hose end to end for any debree). You now have a SS Braided hydraulic hose with fittings good for maybe 2,000 psi hydraulic pressure more or less.

Parts Required for SS Braided Oil Cooler Lines.

The SS Oil Cooler Lines are very easy to make up in SS Braided hose using Aeroquip reusable fittings and SS Braided hose available from Summit Racing.

1. Use two 10 AN Stainless Steel Braided hose.
2. use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 90 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated.
3. Use two Aeroquip Reusable Hose Ends, 45 Degree, -10 AN Hose to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Nickel Plated.
4. Use two Stat-O-Seal, 5/8 in Inside Diameter, Aluminum with O-Ring.
5. Use two 10 AN M18x1.5 fittings threaded into the Aluminum adapter manifold.
6. One 6mm x 1.0 x 35 mm SS Allen head bolt.
7. One 6 mm SS washer.
8. Two "O" rings for the Aluminum adapter manifold to oil cooler interface.

The first five items can be found at Summit Racing.