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#1 |
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fairfax, VT
Posts: 203
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Hi All,
Had a massive oil leak that is now 90% fixed. The pan gasket job went very well and the pan is clean inside and the gasket is tight with no leaks. Now we find that there is still s small leak that turns our to be the low oil pressure switch located under the oil filter housing. FSM says that the coolant must be drained. to pull the filter housing, Is this really true ?. I am sure many of the members have replaced the leaking switch and perhaps I could get some real world tips on this fix. Best Regards, Don ![]() |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Don,
I agree with the coolant draining - not much, just enough to remove the cross-over pipe, as the oil filter housing needs to come off to change that low oil pressure SOB. 3-4 bolts and the housing comes right off, no big deal. The oil cooler lines...may not have to come off, tho I did remove them too - perhaps I could have done it w/o removing the lines? (You'll have to see and get back to us! ![]() Jerry has a new oil flter housing gasket, if you need one, or if the gasket is intact, a smear of the Permatex (powder blue color) RTV will do the sealing, after getting the housing and the gasket surface clean and dry. P. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fairfax, VT
Posts: 203
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply. I have to make another plenum dive so I would drain a little coolant anyway. Do I need any special tool to remove the switch ? I have a great specialty tool that is made for O2 sensors that might be handy. I have already ordered the gasket from Jerry and I am prepared for the new experience. Your process sure beats the FSM approach so thanks again for the help. Best Regards, Don ![]() |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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Can be done without pulling the filter housing. Use a stubby skt with a socket for a sensor.
Tyler |
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#5 |
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fairfax, VT
Posts: 203
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Hi Tyler,
Sounds good but how do you actually get the socket in there? I can't even get my small hand in to disconnect the connector. Cheers Don |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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I ended up just removing the housing, its just a few bolts....
__________________
LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#7 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Nichols, FL
Posts: 611
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![]() Quote:
Tyler |
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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And, yeah! Like Tyler said, thank heaven for this forum! P. |
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#9 |
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fairfax, VT
Posts: 203
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Hi,
I want to thank everyone for the great responses. As soon as the gasket and the switch arrives I will make "getter done" as the saying goes. Thanks again Don ![]() |
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#10 |
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Santa Fe, Texas
Posts: 18
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I am still new to these cars, but I just recently changed the oil pressure sensor you are referring to. I didn't remove the coolant pipe but kind of wish I had. I did remove the oil cooler lines from the cooler and would definitely recommend doing that. I also bought a sensor removal socket (1/16" I think) at Northern Tool for about 3 bucks. Not professional grade but it workd fine in this case.
As an aside, my sensor was leaking a little but I think the major source of the leak was that fact that one of the oil filter adapter bolts had worked loose. I have read of others having the same issue. I admire the person that can do this job in an hour! |
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