Active suspension questions

[vilant]

When I left Carlisle on Saturday, as I started the car, the Selective Ride Control light came on...again. So I decided to pull the codes today and see what's going on now. For those who don't know how, it's easy. 1-Ground pin "C" on the ALDL connector. "A" is ground, so just put a paper clip between A and C. Here's a diagram of the ALDL connector (if you look closely at your ALDL connector underneath, you'll see the letters are printed very small on top of the connector. You old timers may need a magnifying glass ).


2- Turn the key to "Run" but don't start it. The Selective Ride Control light will start flashing. The first series of flashes (1/2 second apart) is the first digit, after a pause the second series of flashes (1/2 second apart) is the second digit. It will repeat each code 3 times, before it moves on to the next one. "12" should be the first code that comes up, if it doesn't, then you have problems. Here's a page from the electrical diagnosis manual, which has everything I just said plus the list of codes, what they mean, and how to reset.


So the codes I got were 23, 31,32. "23" I disregarded, but the other 2 are the front shocks so I went to the troubleshooting part of the manual and did everything it said. After I checked the actuators (re-seated them and they spin 1 revolution in 1 direction when key is on) and there's nothing wrong with the shocks (the valves spin freely), I reset the module (by grounding for 2 secs 3 times and pulled negative battery lead too, after I kept getting the same codes) and I keep getting code 31 and 32. So I'm guessing both actuators are bad, but I find that hard to believe. So my questions are these;

1-When you turn the key to "Run", is the actuator suppose to spin just one direction (CCW when looking at the gear) and stop? Or is it suppose to go CCW and then back CW?

2-According to FSM there's an Active Suspension Manual. Can't seem to find one anywhere. Does anyone own one? Would you share some info or sell it?

3-Are the actuators serviceable?

[Dynomite]

When you turn the key to "Run", the actuator goes CCW and then back CW or CW and then CCW.....but both directions like it is searching for end points.

The Actuator gear teeth (you can see the gear looking in the open end of the Actuator) which are plastic get broken. I had a front Actuator just dead in the water recently (electrical issue). Corvettenutz has used Actuators in stock.

92-95 front Actuator part # is 22114407 (rear is part # 22114337). I actually had an extra Actuator #22114407 (92-95) which worked fine on my 91'.

The 89-91 front Actuator part # is 22075651 (rear is part # 22075652) . The 89-91 Actuators and 92-95 Actuators are interchangeable as far as I know (the difference between Rear and Front Actuators is the length of the attached electrical cable).

Ebay ZR-1 FX-3 Bilstein Shock Actuators

FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS

[Franke]

Just curious. Did you try changing the Sel ride switch position? Not sure if that will help.

[vilant]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

When you turn the key to "Run", the actuator goes CCW and then back CW or CW and then CCW.....but both directions like it is searching for end points.
When looking at the actuator gear it spins CCW then just stops, doesn't go CW
The Actuator gear teeth (you can see the gear looking in the open end of the Actuator) which are plastic get broken. I had a front Actuator just dead in the water recently (electrical issue). Corvettenutz has used Actuators in stock.
The gear looks fine from what is visible, don't know if there's hidden cracks.
92-95 front Actuator part # is 22114407 (rear is part # 22114337). I actually had an extra Actuator #22114407 (92-95) which worked fine on my 91'.

The 89-91 front Actuator part # is 22075651 (rear is part # 22075652) . The 89-91 Actuators and 92-95 Actuators are interchangeable as far as I know (the difference between Rear and Front Actuators is the length of the attached electrical cable).

Ebay ZR-1 FX-3 Bilstein Shock Actuators

FX3 Actuator Rebuild TIPS

Was hoping someone had the manual, I'd like to know what pins do what on the connector (maybe when one pin has voltage or ground it drives the motor CW and another pin does CCW. I guess I could disconnect the connector and meter each pin out, PIA though) . Since it's probably broke I'll take the one apart and see if anything is visibly wrong. Hopefully I can repair it instead of buying a new one. If you don't mind me asking, how much does an actuator cost? Thanks for info, you da man. .

[vilant]

Originally Posted by Franke

Just curious. Did you try changing the Sel ride switch position? Not sure if that will help.

Yea, did that, it didn't change anything. There are codes for when there is something wrong with the selector switch 41-43. Thanks for the thought though .

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by vilant

Was hoping someone had the manual, I'd like to know what pins do what on the connector (maybe when one pin has voltage or ground it drives the motor CW and another pin does CCW. I guess I could disconnect the connector and meter each pin out, PIA though) . Since it's probably broke I'll take the one apart and see if anything is visibly wrong. Hopefully I can repair it instead of buying a new one. If you don't mind me asking, how much does an actuator cost? Thanks for info, you da man. .

When you figure out the electronics of the actuator....post up so I can fix mine

Couple hundred for two actuators

[emmvette]

When you turn the key to run and the actuators turn both directions, can this be noticed with everything connected? In other words, can you hear or feel it?

Or would I need to take something apart to verify they are turning when the key goes to the run position? Out of curiousity, I checked mine that way and didn't feel or hear anything.

Oh, so much I have to learn!

[Franke]

I was going to disassemble one of these and it ain't lookin' easy. I was not sure how to reassemble it after cutting the case open. These units have a small motor and a feedback sensor in them to control shaft position. Could it be possible to borrow one from the rear shocks to test the front electronics?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by emmvette

When you turn the key to run and the actuators turn both directions, can this be noticed with everything connected? In other words, can you hear or feel it?

Or would I need to take something apart to verify they are turning when the key goes to the run position? Out of curiousity, I checked mine that way and didn't feel or hear anything.

Oh, so much I have to learn!

Have someone turn the key on and with the Actuator connected electrically but not installed on top of FX3 Bilstein.....hold Actuator in your hand and look inside the Actuator and you can see the teeth (gear) rotate back and forth then stop.

Now if you guys take an Actuator apart, post up as that will be exciting

Oh....and apparently when you install the actuator on top of shock you do not have to align the gear on top of shock.........But I did

I centered the gear as it rotates I think 160 deg total and I centered at 80 deg from one stop....but I think that was not necessary

[Franke]

I took an old one apart. You will destroy it as it is glued extremely well.IMG_0001.jpg

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It has a planetary gear set, sun gear and the outer ring gear is part of the casing. Everything is glued together even the motor housing to the casing. Sorry about the pics but i didn't know how to edit them to open automatically.