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#1 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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I have perfectly good weather strip around the hatch, but it is loose all the way around the bottom. You can just lift it up. I dont have any water coming in the car that I know of, yet this just doesn't seem correct. Should I just go get some 3M weather strip glue and squirt it in there and make it stick again? It looks like some kind of whitish glue is behind it, and in some places that stuff s still liquid, but very sticky.
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#2 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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well I think it is basically torn all the way around somehow, time to replace what I thought was still perfect.
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#3 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,093
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Its history,mine is on its way out as well.Ive got a new G.M. piece that I plan on putting in the car when I get the back torn apart for my Euro taillight install.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,147
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I just had to do that also on the 20,000 mile 95. I replaced both the hatch and rear targa hoop weatherstripping. Decided to use oriignal GM parts on Marc Haibeck's suggestion. Expensive. I think about $300 for targe piece and $350 for hatch. Or thereabouts--ouch. Marc said there are less expensive replicas available but his experience and that of his customers is that they off-gas and smell like kerosene for about 4 years, and the replica for the targa hoop is not the same color as the original--too gray. Marc installed them for me. They look perfect. --Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#5 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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I think I am going to use Wilcox for the hatch...anything else I will go with GM.
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,147
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I don't know about what replacements other than GM are the best. Maybe others here have had good luck with Wilcox or others. You might give Marc Haibeck a call to see if he knows which of the knock offs smells like kerosene. He said it is quite pronounced and lasts several years. At least one customer replaced his with GM after first using the knock off. You can certainly save some money if one is Ok though. --Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,119
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I suggest Wilcox for the rear hatch because it does have the reinforced corners. In this case the OEM rear hatch weatherstripping was designed to fail. GC
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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#8 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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Wilcox hatch wx strip on the way for 65.00. You can't beat that. He says even with the reinforced corners it can still tear and to glue it back with super glue gel. Any idea what that is? I know of plain superglue.
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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There it is partner.
http://www.supergluecorp.com/super-g...super-glue-gel |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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I gave up on having a perfect glued edge on the rear hatch weather strip and just broke down and used higher density ultra-black rtv to bond the piece into one loop permanently.
fill the voids/ joints with the rtv and then put a piece of ptfe or mold-release soaked saran wrap over the glue right before you close the glass hatch back over it. You can also use the bags that newspapers come in. |
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