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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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Well I have less than 8,000 miles on my slave cylinder after installing a new clutch a year ago and today it bought the farm. I guess it could have been the valve being installed backward like I have read about on here that causes them to prematurely fail. I have noticed that in that time that clutch fluid had been leaking out. And I have had to refill the reservour 3 or four times. Time to get dirty again and feel my skin burn from that clutch fluid. Wahoo!
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#2 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,406
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bummer ,hope you get one done right this time . how can one ck the slave before putting it in to see if its right
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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I guess you have to pull it apart and compare it to the picture on this forum. But if you don't take it apart correctly you can destroy it. They are about $85.00 so I'll take my chances and just install the new one. If I only get 8,000 miles out of it because of bad bendix assy job then so be it. It only takes an hour to install it. The only bad part about it is if it goes cocka on you, you'd better hope your not far from home and that there are not to many lights you have to stop at.
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#4 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: dayton,ohio
Posts: 424
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First one I bought had the seal installed right, but 1/3 of the seal was ripped off from installation. They come apart easy, used a dull tiny screwdriver to work the lip of the seal in with constant pressure pushing on pistion, but not much pushing and when it's ready it pops together without forcing. Cleaned up the chamfered edges of the cyl. first, they were kinda rough. You could practice on your defective one first. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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Man I remember the bad ones. Go to zfdoc.com and/or our zr1netreg site to get the skinny. The seal on backwards was not the only defect on the DOM type slaves cylinders.
seal on backwards. bad welds @ the line bungs. various porosity issues with the metal. Bore run out. lousey machining of the ends of the springs. The spring end is machined flat and they never chamfered the ground ends, so they broke off after a few cycles. General metal fragments left behind, Bill felt they came from the tapping of the bungs. Back in late 05 & early 06 I went thru six sets of masters & slaves before I got one slave to work. Some of the masters had badly formed reserviors, porosity, weld, & metal shavings issues also. I was doing my r&r at the height of the "spillage" issues, so it was a real crap shoot on the parts. I finally had to assemble a slave from parts scavanged from other new deffective slaves and a cast type cylinder. Quality control. ![]() I would suggest if you continue to have trouble to call Bill at zfdoc. For me, that was the most expensive "cheap" thing that I did to my Z. ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,684
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Is there a sure way to get a good slave cylinder today? I replaced mine in December and it is leaking worse that before already.
Is there a best brand? Is DOM (drawn over mandrel, I believe) more or less likely to leak than cast? Is there a GM version that works correctly? What is the story today? Jim |
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