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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: California
Posts: 12
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Any recommendations on chassis lub for 1990 ZR-1. Original GM 6031M spec. or something else?
Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 04-12-2013 at 10:28 AM. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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I don't know that there would be any reason to use any of the "specialty" synthetics out there for a couple of reasons, there's really no need and there's actually a "shelf-life" to any lubricant but some synthetics seems to be more prone to I believe what they call "bleed" than others. Mobil1 was a product that many/most really complained about. Unless you do a lot of maintenance on more than a couple of vehicles the "bleed" might aggravate you more than the benefits you reaped from the product. They also seem a bit overpriced. My thoughts.
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: California
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the suggestions. Confirms a little research I did online. A couple of sites suggested that high priced high temp grease may be worse than typical chassis lub due to the different application they are designed for (disc brake wheel bearings versus chassis ball joints).
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CenCoast California
Posts: 898
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I've used Red Line CV-1 synth. grease on all suspension joints with zerks on any of my cars. That includes my '95 ZR1 on which I've used RL CV-2 since 1996.
The car has original ball joints and tie rod ends and has been driven hard for 88,000 miles and there is no detectable wear on the parts lubed with that stuff. Not only have I used CV-2 for suspension ball joints and tie rod ends, but I've used it for wheel bearings and for repacking CV joints on 4WD trucks and on C5s and C6es. My observation is all the anecdotal stories about synth. grease not being appropriate for ball joints is a lot of BS.
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Hib Halverson Technical Writer former owner 95 VIN 0140 current owner 19 VIN 1878 |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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I use some parts store black molybdenum type general purpose grease for ball joints and tie rods, but my second choice is redline synth grease (the red stuff). I just don't have any redline in a grease gun at the moment.
The Redline is definitely tops for wheel bearings, or other hi-temp areas where you don't want the grease to melt off, like a clutch fork ball pivot etc. Ball joints?... I say anything clean to push out the old grease and dirt away from the actual joint is good. Most people these days never lube anything. I used to have a 3rd gen F-Body and those were known to kill lower ball joints on the front end. Lubing never helped- they last 3 years and that's it. |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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#7 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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what all needs to be greased on a 94? All I know of are the two spots on the fron suspension.
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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I wish someone would come out with a lubable hub for our cars. Sealed hubs are just not the best idea in the world.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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