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#11 |
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,684
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Hi Dave, it was nice to meet you and see your garage and your projects. I hope you will come out to Westminster some time.
Rich, you engine is fabulous. All of the work you did was first class. It was a nice day and I think we got a lot done. Jim |
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#12 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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![]() Quote:
Thanks so much for coming out! ![]() Rich
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,731
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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Still working on some cosmetic issues, will post some pics shortly.
Rich
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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Rich, did you sort out the brake lights staying on?
just a fwiw, sometimes if you pull up on the brake pedal it will readjust the switch so they go out. Also, there is a clearance spec in the FSM for the rod from the booster to the M/Cylinder....that doesn't have anything to do with the brake lights but it is an important spec to be observed. ![]() ![]() ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#16 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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Yeah, I thought maybe I didn't have the booster seated against the FW when I was tightening it down. I started looking at it last night and everything looked OK. So, I contorted my fat a$$ back under the dash and found that while tightening up the booster bolts, I had somehow dislodged both brake switches from the holders and both were pushed back about 1/8 of an inch. The switches are threaded but I was able to push them back to where they needed to be. It concerns me a bit that they dislodged so easily, I may have to replace them at some point. The plastic theads looked stipped to me. Thanks ![]() Rich
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
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#17 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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Okay You go man! Ya know I don't think those threads are more than a way to hold the switches in place...not like a nut and bolt but more of a slide to fit type thing.
I had a situation where I knocked the switches down into the pedal arm when I did my clutch master swap. I didn't know I moved them farther into the brake pedal arm until I had dragging brakes. Looked it up and it said to pull up on the pedal...just that simple, just pull up. That makes me think that they are not actually threads. JMHO ![]() Glad you found it! ![]()
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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