Changing Back 2 spark plugs

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Maybe someone else wants to chime in, but I stopped using anti-seize on the plugs. There was a thread about this a while ago. I found that anti-seize allows the plugs to loosen. Been using a dab of oil on the threads instead.

I have been doing this for years on cars. My old 944 Turbo was an all aluminum engine as well and I never had an issue changing plugs at the 15,000 mile interval.

[Bob Eyres]

Just did that job Bill, here's what worked for me.

Swivel spark plug socket then 3/8" extender, 3" long (to get above the hole), then another swivel to work a good angle, then a longer extension so you don't break your back leaning over.

It worked for me.

[Jim Nolan]

Oops! I meant 3/8 to 1/4 stepdown.

[Hib Halverson]

Here's what you need for #8.

3/8-drive, plug socket with integral universal and either an internal magnet or sponge retainer.
3/8-drive, one-inch extension
3/8-drive universal joint.

Stick all that on a long extension. It goes easily down the plug well. With the socket on the plug, the point at which the extension swivels on the top u-joint is just above the edge of the plug well.

I use a 30-in extension and a 3/8-drive T-handle to loosen and tighten plugs on an LT5.

Also, I use taper seat plugs which interfaces with the head on the taper which is how the plug seals. I use DuPont Krytox antiseize on the plug threads only.

For plugs, for the last 15 years or so, I've used the Denso IT-22 which is a range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR-1LS).

[8cam]

Guys this isn't hard. A 3" extension and a u-joint and out it comes. Never had a problem, and at least on my 90 there is plenty of clearance. Leave the rubber washer in the socket and it will pull the plug right out.