LT5 Assembly Project - Page 3 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Zr1 Destroyer · 10-19-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by phrogs

I still have to pull up the BS flag on the head bolts...

Who else here has worked on a LT5 and replaced the head bolts?

just curious

I re-used my bolts from my 368 for the 415 build and all is fine.......just turned them a few extra degrees with the wheel on the end of the torque wrench. I also re-used my head bolts on my old Z when I did the ported lpe heads from nj.

-=Jeff=- · 10-19-2008

Yeah but LGAFF has NO Head Bolts.. that is the issue

Zr1 Destroyer · 10-19-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Yeah but LGAFF has NO Head Bolts.. that is the issue

Hmmm...nj has a surplus on these.....I'll ask him if he wants to get rid of some. He also has five extra sets of cams also he wants to punt.

LGAFF · 10-19-2008

OK here is the skinny on the block/heads.

Engine is out of 90 #702. I bought the heads, they were ported with a valve job. The short block has about 40K miles on, although it seems like it has more). Notice the port is siamesed, and althought the 2ndry port is over 36mm the primary port needs to be opened some. Also notice that the porting left little sealing surface area where the IH bolts on.

LGAFF · 10-19-2008

The Pistons have damage from a screw...apparently the culprit was never found, but he either had partners or possibly bounced around from cylinder to cylinder:

There is however no damage to liners.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

LGAFF · 10-19-2008

The only known other issue is the cross threaded bolt for the IH:

LGAFF
91 ZR1
#234

LGAFF · 10-19-2008

Step one in inspecting the block, etc was the removal of the balancer.

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actually a tool that is inserted here that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.

Crank position sensor hole:

Then removed the balancer:

LGAFF

Zr1 Destroyer · 10-19-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Step one in inspecting the block, etc was the removal of the balancer.

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actuall a tool that is inserted here in that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.

Crank position sensor hole:

Yeah....you'll for sure want the crank pin tool....things will get ugly real fast if a guy guess's on that one.

10-20-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actually a tool that is inserted here that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt.

So you are forcing roughly 160+ ftlbs of pressure on the crank reluctor wheel?

A26B · 10-20-2008

Seal remains in place in the front cover when it's removed. Word of caution, be careful with the large metal "washer" on the crank. The face is a precision lapped flat surface for sealing against the carbon/graphite oil pump seal. If it is dinged or scratched, the oil pump seal will leak.

10-19-2008	#5
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: LT5 Assembly Project The Pistons have damage from a screw...apparently the culprit was never found, but he either had partners or possibly bounced around from cylinder to cylinder: There is however no damage to liners. LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234 Last edited by LGAFF; 03-02-2018 at 07:46 AM.

10-19-2008	#6
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: LT5 Assembly Project The only known other issue is the cross threaded bolt for the IH: LGAFF 91 ZR1 #234

10-20-2008	#10
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia, OK Posts: 3,402	Re: LT5 Assembly Project Seal remains in place in the front cover when it's removed. Word of caution, be careful with the large metal "washer" on the crank. The face is a precision lapped flat surface for sealing against the carbon/graphite oil pump seal. If it is dinged or scratched, the oil pump seal will leak. __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

10-19-2008	#2
-=Jeff=- Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 7,161	Re: LT5 Assembly Project Yeah but LGAFF has NO Head Bolts.. that is the issue __________________ 1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978

10-19-2008	#7
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: LT5 Assembly Project Step one in inspecting the block, etc was the removal of the balancer. In order to hold the crank still, I placed a large head screwdriver in the crank position sensor hole, the crank has several notches in it, used for holding the crank still during cam timing. There is actually a tool that is inserted here that snaps into the notch and holds the crank still, but more to come on that. After locking the crank I removed the crank/balancer bolt. Crank position sensor hole: Then removed the balancer: LGAFF Last edited by LGAFF; 10-19-2008 at 08:24 PM.