Backup light / 1-4 issue

[Matt B]

Okay then... New switch arrived perfectly in time for my federal inspection. And your experience was confirmed. It works! That means that these switches use only between 0.04" and 0.08" travel to engage the circuit. Way more precision than I expected, wow. My old one engaged at about 0.08" which apparently already was out of tolerance.
1-4 is still not operating but maybe the selenoid has an issue or was disabled. My initial idea was a relation between both issues as both systems are fed by the same wire. But apparently it was just a coincidence and thankfully I was wrong and it was so easy!!

Thanks for your great support!!!

[ram_g]

Awesome, good to hear!

[aod]

Originally Posted by TX '90 ZR1

Actually changing the reverse light switch is not that bad with the proper tools.
First you need to get the clutch slave cylinder out of the way. Just get it out of the way. No need to disconnect the fluid line.
Now you can get to the switch. Use an offset 02 sensor socket and a thin swivel head 3/8" ratchet. The longer the ratchet the better.
Pic attached of tools and switches.
Hope this helps.
Attachment 14976

Thanks for posting this. Mine has just failed this year as well. So weird to have multiple failures happening at the same time. And I do not park it in reverse. I have a new switch from Ecklers ordered. I've never moved the slave cylinder before. Is it a PITA to push the plunger back in when you are bolting it back in? Any advice there? Also, once you move the slave cylinder do you have access to disconnect the connector going to the switch before you start removing the switch? Sorry for the dumb questions, I haven't gotten under the car yet to see what I'm getting into, but I understand it isn't a fun process.


Thanks!

[TX '90 ZR1]

Originally Posted by aod

Thanks for posting this. Mine has just failed this year as well. So weird to have multiple failures happening at the same time. And I do not park it in reverse. I have a new switch from Ecklers ordered. I've never moved the slave cylinder before. Is it a PITA to push the plunger back in when you are bolting it back in? Any advice there? Also, once you move the slave cylinder do you have access to disconnect the connector going to the switch before you start removing the switch? Sorry for the dumb questions, I haven't gotten under the car yet to see what I'm getting into, but I understand it isn't a fun process.


Thanks!

As always, getting the car up on a lift makes life easier. It is doable without one if necessary.
I have not noticed the slave removal and re-installation to be any different than other hydraulic clutch systems. Just make sure you get it lined up when putting it back in. If your slave has not been changed, check it for signs of leakage. Might as well change it out if it looks suspicious. Unless you are NCRS anal, use a slave from a later year. The position of the bleeder is much more accessible on the later ones as opposed to the '90.
Getting the connector off the original switch can be a bit of a challenge depending on the dexterity of your fingers. The new switch will have a pigtail so will not be an issue to reconnect. Be sure and secure the wiring after installation.
Hope this helps.
I notice you have not joined the registry yet. Not required, but sign up and get a cool T-shirt plus a lot of other benefits!!!

[aod]

Originally Posted by TX '90 ZR1

As always, getting the car up on a lift makes life easier. It is doable without one if necessary.
I have not noticed the slave removal and re-installation to be any different than other hydraulic clutch systems. Just make sure you get it lined up when putting it back in. If your slave has not been changed, check it for signs of leakage. Might as well change it out if it looks suspicious. Unless you are NCRS anal, use a slave from a later year. The position of the bleeder is much more accessible on the later ones as opposed to the '90.
Getting the connector off the original switch can be a bit of a challenge depending on the dexterity of your fingers. The new switch will have a pigtail so will not be an issue to reconnect. Be sure and secure the wiring after installation.
Hope this helps.
I notice you have not joined the registry yet. Not required, but sign up and get a cool T-shirt plus a lot of other benefits!!!

Thanks for that. I just got a Quickjack so it should make things a bit easier. And thank you for the reminder to join the registry. I've been meaning to but always got sidetracked for whatever reason. I have now joined!

[TX '90 ZR1]

Originally Posted by aod

Thanks for that. I just got a Quickjack so it should make things a bit easier. And thank you for the reminder to join the registry. I've been meaning to but always got sidetracked for whatever reason. I have now joined!

[aod]

Originally Posted by TX '90 ZR1

As always, getting the car up on a lift makes life easier. It is doable without one if necessary.
I have not noticed the slave removal and re-installation to be any different than other hydraulic clutch systems. Just make sure you get it lined up when putting it back in. If your slave has not been changed, check it for signs of leakage. Might as well change it out if it looks suspicious. Unless you are NCRS anal, use a slave from a later year. The position of the bleeder is much more accessible on the later ones as opposed to the '90.
Getting the connector off the original switch can be a bit of a challenge depending on the dexterity of your fingers. The new switch will have a pigtail so will not be an issue to reconnect. Be sure and secure the wiring after installation.
Hope this helps.
I notice you have not joined the registry yet. Not required, but sign up and get a cool T-shirt plus a lot of other benefits!!!

So I got the reverse switch replaced and reverse lights work! Unfortunately, I'm guessing I did not get the slave cylinder lined up correctly when I put it back in. The clutch pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. Any tips on how to make sure it is lined up correctly when you put it back together?


Thanks again!

[JG95ZR1]

AOD aim the slave rod to the fork indentation. It?s slightly to the right of center from under neath.The slave will not go all the way in on its own if it is aligned, you will need to push on it from behind about an 1? to hit the bell housing to be able to get the mounting nuts on. At that point you should be on.


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[TX '90 ZR1]

Originally Posted by JG95ZR1

AOD aim the slave rod to the fork indentation. It?s slightly to the right of center from under neath.The slave will not go all the way in on its own if it is aligned, you will need to push on it from behind about an 1? to hit the bell housing to be able to get the mounting nuts on. At that point you should be on.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

This ^^^

[Johnny5]

what socket is it that you ordered. I have to replace mine as I checked my fuses + bulbs. no luck. FYI heibeck tunes the car and rids that annoying skip shift