Windshield

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

My windshield is really that bad. Did you find an original windshield or a standard C4 replacement like they install at Safelite?
I am assuming the Safelite standard windshield is tinted but without the radar box opening.

The guys at Safelite here say they will not warranty if I provide the weatherstrip so I am waiting on an estimate for the rubber they are trying to get from a dealer.

Yep...I copied the details provided by secondchance onto my IPhone for the installer to see before he does the job. If the installer is familiar with that information I will go for it. That is great information and linked that post in -Solutions- (7th post under EXTERIOR).
Windshield Removal TIPS

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

I got it at Corvette Rubber. However, I'd suggest, instead you check with someone that has used .Wilcox as CR is slow to respond (customer service was horrible). Marc might have a good idea too.

Marc says the weather strip that goes from the top of the door to the other side top of the door is needed. Safelite in most areas uses a Chinese weatherstrip which is grey, rather than black in color. I might try Corvette Rubber or one other purty good source that has black rubber ready to ship.

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread

[secondchance]

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:


Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.


Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.


Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

[Dynomite]

Exactly the instructions I was looking for

I assume you remove the windshield after all the moldings are removed? Is it stuck so you push the windshield out from inside?

Oh......How did you come by the extra moldings?

I have a set of standard 1990 (L98) front window moldings and assume those moldings are installed the same and are the same as window moldings on a ZR-1? I see exactly what you are saying about the double back tape keeping the two side pieces together and hiding three screws under the double back tape. The top molding appears to not have the hidden screws.

On the side moldings there are 4 screws for the top powder coated molding not necessarily the same location on each molding. The inner piece (after cutting the double back tape) has 3 screws not necessarily the same location on each molding from car to car. The Top piece has one set of screws and they are located the same on each top piece from car to car?

Happy New Year Yun and everyone looking at this thread

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread

Cliff,
The guy that I am using used to work for Safelite and now has his own business. He said that if I don't decide to use him, there is a guy from Safelite that he would recommend that is just as good as him and been in the business for over 20 years and did a bunch of C4 windshields. I'm sticking with this guy after visiting him several times and seeing how meticulous he works, and how clean his shop is. I don't want the mobile job at work site or in my garage.

To answer your question before edit, I tried to have this guy sell to other members that I knew were looking for the GM NOS stuff. This shop had a bunch he bought from GM years ago (around 60 sets), but has only a few left. Sorry, he would not let me refer him and said he has to keep the remaining few for his actual customers. I had to respect that and he would not sell more than one knowing more valuable than gold (very expensive if you find it). I hope you find an NOS one, but even new and sealed there might be cracks and wrinkles I am told. My guy said don't open as my original is very nice and he thinks he can save it; I am told he will not be able to no matter how good he is or takes his time.

Happy New Year and best wishes!

By the way, I might have some good news about your code tool and late model adapter. I have to confirm first.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:


Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.


Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.

Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

Yun,
As always, thanks for sharing so much detail of your experience with this issue. Every little bit of information helps.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I assume you remove the windshield after all the moldings are removed? Is it stuck so you push the windshield out from inside?

Ha, ha... Normally I remove the weatherstrip and mouldings, take the car to the auto glass shop, have them remove and replace the windshield.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Oh......How did you come by the extra moldings?

I came by a regular 86 Corvette that got bar-b-q'd. Went to his house and removed all the mouldings.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I have a set of standard 1990 (L98) front window moldings and assume those moldings are installed the same and are the same as window moldings on a ZR-1? I see exactly what you are saying about the double back tape keeping the two side pieces together and hiding three screws under the double back tape. The top molding appears to not have the hidden screws.

On the side moldings there are 4 screws for the top powder coated molding not necessarily the same location on each molding. The inner piece (after cutting the double back tape) has 3 screws not necessarily the same location on each molding from car to car. The Top piece has one set of screws and they are located the same on each top piece from car to car?

All C4 windshield mouldings, I believe, are the same. However, factory assembly sequence seemed to have been glue trim moulding to the A pillars (and header), take a drill and drill thru the trim mouldings, followed by screw. Due to this sequence, screw holes typically don't match from car to another car. Another good reason to be extra patient and save the original mouldings.

As for the top piece, whether it can be transferred from another car without re-drilling screw holes, I am not sure. You are correct, there are no hidden screws.

Over the years (93, 2012, 2014 and 2015) I messed with 4 ZR-1 (91, 94, 90 and finally a 95) window mouldings. Seems to be getting better at it...

When I am over this rush at work, I will take time and, perhaps, start a new post with pics and more detailed information.

Happy new Year to you all also!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

By the way, I might have some good news about your code tool and late model adapter. I have to confirm first.

I just used the ALDL Code Reader on my 1990 (L98). Works perfectly.
That tool is soooooo handy. Now to find a couple of those plastic covers for the ALDL Connector under the Drivers side panel

Back to Windshields.....I got something going on and will post later if it works out

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I just used the ALDL Code Reader on my 1990 (L98). Works perfectly.
That tool is soooooo handy. Now to find a couple of those plastic covers for the ALDL Connector under the Drivers side panel

Back to Windshields.....I got something going on and will post later if it works out

I should have time this weekend to play with it on the 95. I was busy cleaning the 95 MY lumbar pump motor and it works like a champ now; but I still want to become one with the car in a Corbeau A4 after sitting in one yesterday.

Can't want to hear your secrets.....

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

I should have time this weekend to play with it on the 95. I was busy cleaning the 95 MY lumbar pump motor and it works like a champ now; but I still want to become one with the car in a Corbeau A4 after sitting in one yesterday.

Can't want to hear your secrets.....

I was soooo close to making an offer on the Red 95 and am still thinking if it is not sold. It would be fun to do some modifications on a 95.
So....how do you like the 95 compared to a 91 or a 90?

I do know it is a lot of fun keeping the LT5 stock after a Plenum Removal to clean up Injectors, Starter, Vacuum System. The LT5s are soooooo reliable after fixing a few minor issues. One thing I do is thread and screw in an Allen Head Aluminum Plug in the Injector Housing TB Coolant path leaving the outside appear stock WITHOUT Hose Clamps on those TB Coolant hoses. And I add one HIDDEN Plug in the return of that TB Coolant to the coolant reservoir. And Carter Bling...........And Differential Drain Plug Installation.....And....Darn....here we go again but I still call them stock