Windshield

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Have to replace windshield and was going with Safelite. They just called me and said they have to replace the rubber or molding. I guess they get it from GM or dealer. Do you guys provide your own molding or rubber? Where do you get it?
Which is it exactly that has to be replaced?

I just sent an e-mail to Marc to see how he does it as he has experience with Safelite. The Safelite local guy seemed to know what he is talking about and has replaced windshields on corvettes before.

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

Thank you for the information

[RussMcB]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Thank you for the information

Agreed! Great stuff.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Cliff,

Weatherstrip has to be removed first. 90% chance the weatherstrip will break apart as you are removing. Although there may be good quality aftermarket weatherstrip, I have not yet seen one - stay with OEM. Call Chevrolet dealer. You might still get lucky.

Once weatherstrip has been removed, driver side and passenger side powder coated aluminum mouldings have to be removed. These are two pieces (each side) sheet metal screwed with double sided tape in between. I don't trust anyone to remove these pieces without destroying them. I use a long retractable razor (box cutter) to separate top moulding ("L" section visiable from the outside ) from the bottom piece. Once removed, another set of screws attaching the inner piece to the "A" pillar is exposed. Removal of these screws allows removal of the inner piece. Once side mouldings are removed, you can un-screw and remove the top piece.
These are delicate procedure and recommend that you take your time and remove unless the window installer has experience working on C4 window.
These aluminum trim/mouldings were very expensive even when C4 Corvettes were in production. I am not sure if they are still available.

Yun,

Thanks for the details. I'm printing this info and taking it to the installer that I'm using. Better if they know up front and I'll be there to ensure. Yeah, the original, good OEM weatherstrip is like finding a Unicorn. I paid through my nose, but lucked out with some help to find one.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Yun,

Thanks for the details. I'm printing this info and taking it to the installer that I'm using. Better if they know up front and I'll be there to ensure. Yeah, the original, good OEM weatherstrip is like finding a Unicorn. I paid through my nose, but lucked out with some help to find one.

My windshield is really that bad. Did you find an original windshield or a standard C4 replacement like they install at Safelite?
I am assuming the Safelite standard windshield is tinted but without the radar box opening.

The guys at Safelite here say they will not warranty if I provide the weatherstrip so I am waiting on an estimate for the rubber they are trying to get from a dealer.

Yep...I copied the details provided by secondchance onto my IPhone for the installer to see before he does the job. If the installer is familiar with that information I will go for it. That is great information and linked that post in -Solutions- (7th post under EXTERIOR).
Windshield Removal TIPS

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

My windshield is really that bad. Did you find an original windshield or a standard C4 replacement like they install at Safelite?
I am assuming the Safelite standard windshield is tinted but without the radar box opening.

The guys at Safelite here say they will not warranty if I provide the weatherstrip so I am waiting on an estimate for the rubber they are trying to get from a dealer.

Yep...I copied the details provided by secondchance onto my IPhone for the installer to see before he does the job. If the installer is familiar with that information I will go for it. That is great information and linked that post in -Solutions- (7th post under EXTERIOR).
Windshield Removal TIPS

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

I got it at Corvette Rubber. However, I'd suggest, instead you check with someone that has used .Wilcox as CR is slow to respond (customer service was horrible). Marc might have a good idea too.

Marc says the weather strip that goes from the top of the door to the other side top of the door is needed. Safelite in most areas uses a Chinese weatherstrip which is grey, rather than black in color. I might try Corvette Rubber or one other purty good source that has black rubber ready to ship.

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Cliff,
I'm trying for an original reproduction (not LOF); if not, I will end up with the standard C4 windshield for $212. The guy I am dealing with is very knowledgeable and was sharing the difference with all the windshield brands out there. Most are from China, but a few are not and better quality. Not sure what Safelite and they would not say the brand; staying away from them (the ones over here anyway). I had all the info written down and called or went to so many shops until I got dizzy. Best wishes.

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread

[secondchance]

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:


Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.


Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.


Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I remembered I had stashed a set of windshield moulding just in case. So, I dug up my stash and wanted to clear up removal/install procedure since I remembered what I wrote earlier may be wrong:


Above is the driver side side mouldings. Piece on the left (sorry the image is upside down...) is the first piece you will be removal after the weatherstrip is removed (we'll call it channel strip since this piece is shaped as channel to receive weather strip). Piece on the right is the trim piece.


Above is the back side of the trim piece. Notice vinyl strip? I call his flashing since this flexiable vinyl strip is what keeps the water out.

Separation of channel strip from trim piece is difficult because factory used double sided tape to hold the two before screwing. Also, if you want to truly maintain OEM look, careful removal of the trim piece is necessary not to destroy vinyl flashing.

Above is the top piece (two pieces of powder coated aluminum rivetted together) with vinyl strip to keep the water out. I believe this piece is under the side trim piece but I may be wrong. I will edit after I take a look at my car later. Once again, careful removal is necessary to avoid any damage to the vinyl strip (flashing).

When reassembling, if NCRS level reinstall is desired, use of double stick 3M tape is the only way to achieve correct look.
I use double stick tape to attach vinyl pieces on the edge of the windshield and "A" pillar and roof structure first followed by side trim mouldings. Another layer of double stick tape is applied to the side trim mouldings followed by side channel pieces. I believe top trim/channel piece goes on top.
Problem of achieving OEM look is water infiltration may be an issue due to reusing aged vinyl trim and make shift use of double stick tape.

If this install is for the daily driver, I would not use vinyl trim and after the mouldings are installed, use masking take along the edge of trim moulding and windshield and fill the gap with silicone or black urethane caulking.

Lastly, I recommend not to glue the new weather strip to the channel moulding. Weatherstrip holds fine without glue and compression from the top keeps water from entering. Only place to worry over water coming in is at two top corners between the weatherstrip and the trim moulding. I use masking tape to control the edge of silicone caulking and fill the gap after installing the top.

I will add photo later.

Yun,
As always, thanks for sharing so much detail of your experience with this issue. Every little bit of information helps.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Safelite is a bit tricky to deal with as they insist that they use the rubber they find from a dealer (something about warranty) which they should have known there is no such rubber from GM any more. I have not heard back from Safelite so I am sure they are finding that out. I do not want some grey rubber from China. I am going with a guy I have been dealing with (not LOF). This Safelite guy and the warranty stuff makes me dizzy

Happy New Year Craig and everyone looking at this thread

Cliff,
The guy that I am using used to work for Safelite and now has his own business. He said that if I don't decide to use him, there is a guy from Safelite that he would recommend that is just as good as him and been in the business for over 20 years and did a bunch of C4 windshields. I'm sticking with this guy after visiting him several times and seeing how meticulous he works, and how clean his shop is. I don't want the mobile job at work site or in my garage.

To answer your question before edit, I tried to have this guy sell to other members that I knew were looking for the GM NOS stuff. This shop had a bunch he bought from GM years ago (around 60 sets), but has only a few left. Sorry, he would not let me refer him and said he has to keep the remaining few for his actual customers. I had to respect that and he would not sell more than one knowing more valuable than gold (very expensive if you find it). I hope you find an NOS one, but even new and sealed there might be cracks and wrinkles I am told. My guy said don't open as my original is very nice and he thinks he can save it; I am told he will not be able to no matter how good he is or takes his time.

Happy New Year and best wishes!

By the way, I might have some good news about your code tool and late model adapter. I have to confirm first.