Changing clutch – can I do this myself?

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by rhipsher

Yep! Get it as high as your jack stands will go. Once you get it out you'll still have to lay it on its side and drag it out from under the car.

Well, actually, working off jack stands, and ONLY working on the clutch, the ZF doesn't have to come out from under the car. I balance it on the cup of my plain ol floor jack, pull it out of the clutch, lower it, then let it down and roll it back and park it back out of the way in the tunnel area. Ya don't have to jack the car up quite so high, unless you just want to.

Good point about the Castrol TWS 10W-60 (synthetic that you get from the BMW dealer) and change the trans fluid too, while yer there. (Already mentioned changing the clutch fluid - easy when the slave is outta there too!)

P.

[ghlkal]

Wow, thanks for all the feedback, suggestions, and encouragement.

For my use, a stock spec clutch is fine. I found a Valeo kit on eBay - thoughts?

I've read good things about the C frame plates.

IIRC, it makes sense to try to open the tranny plugs while the tranny is still connected to drain and fill, right?

I don't see any oil throught the inspection plate, so I assume my rear main is holding OK.

Will the clutch housing drop down past the cats? I assume I just drop the exhaust past the cats.

It looks "interesting" to reach the T50 bolts on top of the tranny. Should I invest in a better quality torx bit for those?

Originally Posted by LGAFF

What part of WI are you in?

I'm in Fredonia which is about 40 minutes north of Milwaukee (I'm between Milwaukee and Road America )

Originally Posted by Dynomite

a PM step by step for Transmission and clutch removal

Thanks Cliff

[VetteMed]

While the trans to bellhousing bolts do indeed have a torx pattern on them, a hex socket works fine on the outside of the bolts. I don't remember the size (15 or 16 mm perhaps), but I did not need to use a torx bit on them.

Definitely drain the oil before dropping the trans, otherwise it will all pour out the tailshaft as you lower it. Similarly, don't refill until it's back in position, bolted in.

Andrew

[LGAFF]

I bought a trans tailhousing plug from Autozone and it did not spill a drop...

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

I bought a trans tailhousing plug from Autozone and it did not spill a drop...

Also an option, especially if fresh fluid is in the trans. My luck, though, the plug would have fallen out while my face was under the tailhousing.

[rhipsher]

Pauls correct. You don't have to take the trans out from under the car. Just shove it to the back of the car. I pulled mine all the way out the first time because I wanted to clean it up.

[Bob Eyres]

IMHO, if you have less than 50K mi. on the car, you probably don't have to replace the pressure plate, only the disc.
But, if you do replace the whole assembly, make sure you get the correct year throw out bearing. They are incompatible.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by Bob Eyres

IMHO, if you have less than 50K mi. on the car, you probably don't have to replace the pressure plate, only the disc.
But, if you do replace the whole assembly, make sure you get the correct year throw out bearing. They are incompatible.

Well, yes, the black tag (early) and blue tag (late) ZF used a different diameter input shaft sleeve, so the blue tag cars had a plastic sleeve pressed into the center of the release bearing. This plastic sleeve can be removed to make it usable in a black tag situation.

[Paul Workman]

OH!

Forgot to mention it before, but before you disconnect the drive shaft from the differential, mark the shaft and the yoke on the diff or you might reinstal it 180º from where it was, and likely cause vibration or "buzzing" at high(er) speed...Ain't dat right Lee? (And, for future, if you ever replace the U joints, same marking goes for the transmission end of the driveshaft too!)

Remove the MAP and fuel pressure regulator from the back of the plenum, or you might pinch them between the plenum and the firewall when tilting the motor to pull the trans. Good time to clean up the grounds too, since they're right there and easy to get to once the bell housing is off.

No time like the present to change to an aluminum FW too, but I digress...
And, another thing not mentioned yet: A bottle jack is needed along with the floor jack. You use it to support the engine when pulling the trans and reinstalling it too, and when aligning the C-beam after wards (before the bolts are tightened at either end) the tail of the trans (via the C-beam reference) needs to be approx 1" from the side of the beam to the tunnel, and approx 1-3/4" from the "roof", ± 1/4".



Hmmm.... Do I sense someone about to write up a checklist for the Registry newsletter??? HMMMMM????

P.

[ghlkal]

Keep these great tips coming!

Now, will the clutch housing drop down past the cats? I assume I just drop the exhaust past the cats (I don't want to pull the exhaust manifolds too)