INFL RST fix question

[bamawrx]

I've read the TSB and technical post on this forum about this issue. Does anyone have a link with any photos or diagram about the K pin? Or photos of any portion of this process that would be great.

I'm looking for more details before I tear into it if possible.

[Z06scentair]

Third from right on the bottom row.

[ghlkal]

I'm having problems accessing my photobucket, but I _think_ this image that I found is correct for the ALDL connectors ...



(Just where Z06 said it would be :-)

[bamawrx]

Thanks guys. I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow. See what kind of code I get. If anyone finds any shots of any portion of this operation I'd love to see them.

[Kevin]

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8315

[bamawrx]

Step One:Remove side panel. Leave tire and wheel well in place.

[IMG][/IMG]

Step Two: Remove Battery

[IMG][/IMG]

Step Three: Remove battery platform. Only 4 bolts and allows unfettered access to frame/sensor.

[IMG][/IMG]

Nasty under the sensor.

[IMG][/IMG]

Step four: All cleaned up. Dielectric grease added and re-attached sensor next.

[IMG][/IMG]

Success! First time my idiot light screen has looked like this.

[IMG][/IMG]

To clear the code required the use of a stop watch. Counting was not precise enough for this system. Have jumper wire from K pin to ground on the seat frame when you turn key to acc. Hit the start button on your stop watch and remove wire from ground THE INSTANT the INFL REST light blinks on dash. Watch the timer and reapply ground wire when it hits 3 sec, and pull off when it hits 6 sec. Done.

My guess is the difficulty everyone has with this step is the level of timing the system is demanding. Get the time right and its easy. Maybe this will help some people in the future. It was a fun job to do.

TIPS: Use a torx bit in a socket driver to remove two small torx screws inside bottom of wheel well. This avoids having to jack car and remove wheel. These two screws attached to the side skirt, which you will need to be able to flex out of the way to access a bolt on the bottom of the side panel.

Solid copper wire for jumper is great as it will stay in pin K location freeing up your hands.

[Z06scentair]

Assuming you had a code 16? Thats the easy side, now you should go ahead and do the passenger side just to be safe. I recommend removing at least the rear portion of the wheel well. It's a FUN job.

Congrats on the Drivers side!

[bamawrx]

Originally Posted by Z06scentair

Assuming you had a code 16? Thats the easy side, now you should go ahead and do the passenger side just to be safe. I recommend removing at least the rear portion of the wheel well. It's a FUN job.

Congrats on the Drivers side!

For some reason I'm remembering the code as 26. Two long blinks and six fast blinks. So far so good. I will start reading on the other side and may dive into that soon. I did enjoy the small job, very satisfying.

[Dynomite]

Excellent photo coverage there bamawrx
The step by step is easy to follow

Originally Posted by bamawrx

Step One:Remove side panel. Leave tire and wheel well in place.
Step Two: Remove Battery
Step Three: Remove battery platform. Only 4 bolts and allows unfettered access to frame/sensor.
Nasty under the sensor.
Step four: All cleaned up. Dielectric grease added and re-attached sensor next.
Success! First time my idiot light screen has looked like this.



To clear the code required the use of a stop watch. Counting was not precise enough for this system. Have jumper wire from K pin to ground on the seat frame when you turn key to acc. Hit the start button on your stop watch and remove wire from ground THE INSTANT the INFL REST light blinks on dash. Watch the timer and reapply ground wire when it hits 3 sec, and pull off when it hits 6 sec. Done.

My guess is the difficulty everyone has with this step is the level of timing the system is demanding. Get the time right and its easy. Maybe this will help some people in the future. It was a fun job to do.

TIPS: Use a torx bit in a socket driver to remove two small torx screws inside bottom of wheel well. This avoids having to jack car and remove wheel. These two screws attached to the side skirt, which you will need to be able to flex out of the way to access a bolt on the bottom of the side panel.

Solid copper wire for jumper is great as it will stay in pin K location freeing up your hands.

[WydGlydJim]

The sequence of the timing of clearing the code always reminds me of this...makes no sense!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZODzdqVptUs